OIL LEAK

I have a small oil leak that looks like is coming from the plug underneith the crankshaft cover. I've replaced the plug and the O-ring. Still leaks. So I replaced the O-ring again. Still leaks. I noticed after looking deeper into the situation that the oil may be coming from inside the crankshaft cover cause I did notice two small drips from the bottom of the cover. So I removed the cover, but can't really see anything wrong. I don't know if you can remove the timing plate cause the screw in the middle just keeps spinning and pro putting the timing off. Is it possible that the oil is coming through there and leaking out of the cover? Like I said it's small, but could get worse if I don't address it now and it's just plain annoying. I want to fix the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

post info for you bike, better yet put it in your signature and we won't have to ask when you post a question. Also, post a pic of the leaking area. I haven't seen a leak on the crank cover on these XJ's

 

Seriously.

What bike? And which "crankcase cover?" Yamaha calls everything a crankcase cover.

 

The only crankcase cover that would have a timing plate under it is the left front oil pump/timing cover.

Yes there is an oil seal on the crankshaft behind the timing plate.
You will need to hold the timing rotor with a wrench when you take the screw out that holds it to the end of the crank.
Then you will have two screws that hold the timing plate on the case.
This will expose the end of the crank, and the seal.

The plug below the timing cover is for the main oil gallery. As long as the plug is tight, and the o-ring intact. it should not leak.

Ghost

 

Thanks for the info and MiGhost, I think you answered my question exactly what I was looking for. I tried to hold the timing rotor and remove that center nut, but won't budge and I don't want to break anything. Is it generally really tight and tough to get loose? Also by the rotor turning it won't put the timing off will it?

 

Oh and by the way it's 1998 seca xj600

 

SO I got to the seal and I'm pretty sure it's leaking from there. Not very big, but think I still want to replace it anyway. The question I have is do I have to split the case apart to get the seal out or is there an easier way without having to do that cause I believe the seal has a lip on it. Thanks

 

Hi Steve, I can't be 100% positive but I don't think you have to split the cases to get the seal out, pierce the seal with something sharp and pointy turn a screw into the hole and try to pull the seal out with pliers, and you might want to use 2 screws spaced 180 degrees apart.

 

Thats a good idea...for getting it out. What about putting the new one in though?

 

you definitely have to split the case, you may be able to get the old one out, but you will never get the new one in. spit my cases twice already fixing to do it a third time.

 

Like I said, I'm not familiar with your bike but I know engines. Yamaha definately did not design the engine so poorly that their mechanics would have to split the case just to change a seal. Here's what to do, get the seal in position on the crankshaft and have a suitable deep socket to put over the seal, then with a rubber mallet gently tap on the socket and drive the seal home, there should be a shoulder that will stop the seal from going in too far.

Be sure to lube the seals outer edge with white grease to make it easy to drive in. Razz is probably having such a difficult time with his engine because he forgot to do this.

 

ok thanks for info Razz and LV I will try that first to see if that will work for me. Still need to order part so pro won't get to it til next week sometime, but will let you know how everything turns out. Thanks.

 

Installing seals that have an outer steel case should drive in. Rubber seals because of there design may fit so tightly that driving them in can "skin" the rubber off of the outside of the seal. In which case the seal will leak around the outside of the seal vs leaking where the shaft goes through.
It all depends on which type of seal you have , let us know how it goes.

MN

 

I know for a fact that the seal is so tight in there. That it actually squeeze's part of the seal into the groove at the parting lines of the case when you tighten up the bolts. Is it impossible, no, but it will probly leak.

 

Consider this Razz, do you think that as the seal heats up when the engine is running, it might EXPAND and that is what's causing it to groove at the parting line? C'mon Razz, from your statements it appears that you have limited mechanic's experience. Are you ensuring that the seal bore is clean and smooth? are you sure there are no gouges or burrs? Yes, you are right that the seals are in there tight, but that doesn't mean you have to split the cases to change a seal. Think about it.

 

Guys. The seal in question IS "lipped in" to the cases, yes. Look in the fiche.

Unfortunately, Yamaha doesn't offer a "lipless" replacement seal (like they do for the other end.)

So to do it 110% right, you would need to split the cases.

BUT

That being said, there is no real oil pressure to speak of on that seal. So you CAN replace it with a smooth-sided seal of the correct size, as long as you're careful to get it fitted square (and I would use Yamabond on the outside of it.) Other members have performed this repair successfully on XJ550s.

The problem would be finding the correct "substitute" seal. If it were me, I'd obtain the correct, "lipped" seal; and then find one that exactly matches except for the lip.

I would do this BEFORE I dug the old one out.

 

What's with the flaming LV Steve? I haven't attacked you one bit, just trying to give the gentleman some advise based on my experience. And as far as that experience, I own and operate (that means I actually turn a wrench), a small engine and motorcycle repair shop going on 25 years now. So please keep the flaming to yourself. And before you attack my shop ethics, I don't charge a dime for any repairs that the fellow rider don't needs.

 

Thanks fitz for settling that one. Your the go to person in this forum in my honest opinion.

 

If its a double liped seal that's a whole different deal. Case has to be split to do the job right.
Not saying you could not go to the auto parts store and maybe find something that would work, but if the case gets split you can replace a few parts that are known problem , starter clutch, chain guides and things that make opening up an engine a second time not so much fun because we all know they are going to go out at some point.

 

Thanks for the endorsement; I try. The idea here is to help OP solve his problem.

It's not a double-lipped seal, it has a raised locating ridge on its OD. As I stated previously, other 550 owners have successfully replaced it with an unlipped seal. If done carefully, there's no need to split the cases. The chain driven bikes do not suffer from the same chain guide issues as the shafties. (The HI-VO chain is a true primary chain and as such has an hydraulic tensioner and a completely different type "slipper foot." They don't -can't- break up.) And since the 550/600 uses nearly the same physical size starter clutch as the big bikes, they RARELY wear out.

Back to the fiche for a sec: http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/yamaha- ... ibrand=YAM

The seal in question can be found under CRANKSHAFT PISTON; it's reference #2 in the diagram, Yamaha pn 93101-32144-00, lists for $7.92 and is available. Check a local Yammie store, that's a "common" not model-specific part number. Might pay a couple bucks more, but no shipping.

The new seal will have its dimensions molded on it somewhere; virtually all oil seals do. Take it to a reputable industrial or bearing supply house and match it with one that has no lip on the OD.

I'll bet it even costs half of what Yamaha nailed you for the replacement part.

 

C'mon Razz, cowboy up! no offense intended, but you yourself admitted that you were on your third attempt at repairing your seal. BTW you will know it if I'm on the attack because there will be words like moron, idiot, and incompetent sprinkled throughout my comments. Remember, your statements reflect your experience. Anyway, I don't remember if I've ever attacked anyone for making stupid comments, but I myself am guilty of making some questionable remarks and Fitz took me to task for them.

 

I have not replaced the seal not once. The first time I split the case was for a chain guide. The second time was to replace the starter clutch. Now I am fixing to replace the starter chain. I have no idea how you got that I was on my third attempt to replace my seal. I was posting my original post because I know first hand what the seal looks like and that it is extremely difficult to do it right with out splitting the case. The seal has a lip on it making it difficult to get out and put the new one in.

 

Thank you Razz for clearing this up, When you communicate through this forum, you should provide an appropriate amount of info so as to not confuse the rest of us.

 

No problem. And I want to apologize to stevekaz for the miscommunication that caused all of this.