oil pump cover. help!

I posted this but I think in the wrong place but what should i do about this glue job the PO did to my oil pump cover and llower crank case. I haven't tried to remove yet. Don't know what the consequenses would be.

 

I can think of two things Tito,
1) leave it alone
2) take off all the goop and see what the real problem is.

Worse case scenario, you may find a cracked casing.

 

anyone know what's behind this cover? will something like oil eventually leak outta this?

 

Remove the "Stuff"

Let's find out what's covered-up and why.

The photo's are tough. Take another set of pix. Shine some lights on the area and turn-off the flash.

Leak? Crack? No matter what it is ... we can fix it.

 

There's nothing under that cover, at least on my 750.

If you take the cover off all you should see is a black rubber coated "blind plug" which caps off the end of the crank shaft. If this plug is leaking then you may find oil behind this cover.

If it were my bike I would be stripping all the stuff off, pull the cover off and have a good look at what is going on. Better to do it at your own place then out on the highway and have something let go.

 

Tito, what kind of glue is it all over?
I can't make out the pictures.

The real ? here is, what is the glue patching up, hopefully a bad seal and gasket!?

Let us know what you find when you tear into it.

 

Man you guys are true Midnight Marauders. The Glue is more like a silicone painted black. Guess that's why it's tough to see it but it's rough looking compared to the rest of the crank case. Well if nothing crazy is going to come out when i crack it open I'm gonna scrape all the crap off and use some solid epoxy to reform the crank case. Any suggestions on what kind of epoxy to use? My guess is i"ll have to mold a thredded standoff into this to replace the broken screw mount(bottom right) since there is no screw there an lots of silicone. I'll take some pics of it stripped down on Saturday.

 

I don't know about your bike but my oil filter is mounted on the lower front of the engine.It looks like the one you got is side mounted.It looks kinda like where my starter motor would be on my bike.That cover has bolt holes?It may be a starter cover.A better pic my help.

 

Hey rick just wanted to thank you again for insight on how to get this done. I'll post some before and after pics. I won't let ya down bud. It's gonna look sweet!

 

Once you get down to bare metal...try using JB Weld...it's the feline's rectum!

 

JB weld is supposed to be able to handle the job. I would suggest you treat all of the metal exposed with some sort of solvent to remove ALL traces of oil, grease or other material that would interfer with a good bond. In the good old days, you would cook the part to burn off any impurities that would mess up the bonding process but I don't suppose that is an option if the engine is to remain on the bike. Good luck and tell us how the repair works out will you?

 

Danno,

Rectum nearly killed em! 8O

Anyway here is a pick of the gaping hole that was being covered by the silicone.
Just don't understand how this happend with the engine guards still looking good? :x Check out the crank case bolt that connects the bottom half to the top it's a little blurry but it's the shiney spot to the right of the crack. It's bent to heck. Don't think I'll ever be able to get it out. Some of the head of the bolt is jammed into the case. Luckly not enough to cause any leakage. I plan on JB'ing over the whole bolt Just to make sure it won't leak. Tommorow I will finish this up. More pics to come

 

Looks to me like the damage is outside the crankcase. You shouldn't need to worry about oil, just keeping the elements out of the pickup coils and governor.

I can't tell from the pics for sure, but it looks like the cover may be damaged. I'd get ahold of a new cover, or get someone that is good at welding aluminum to fill it, then file flat.

Then I'd get a piece of card stock (from the craft store, or from inside a new dress shirt) and make a form for the inside of the case and tack in place. Put a little vaseline on the cover (leave gasket out) and screw it on.

Now you just have to fill it. I don't have any experience with JB Weld. I'd consider filling with fiberglass and polyester resin.

After it sets up file and sand to a nice finish. Paint, reinstall cover with gasket.

 

Fiberglass. MarGlass.

Because it's going to be building-up an area where there is a seam; whatever goes on there better be able to come off ... IF ... something were to necessitate splitting the cases.


Fortunately, this is not the ignition side. You are going to need to glass-up some of the inside area, too ... just to have a foundation for what is going to be needed to create the OUTSIDE from separating along the lines of where its fractured.

To have a fighting chance ... grind-off the hard outside edges along the fractures and create a clean, smooth, BIASED, edge for the filler material to adhere too. The more good surface area you can create for the material to bind too ... the better-off you'll be.

Reverse the thinking about creating a form for maintaining an inside diameter.

Instead, you'll need to create a situation that will allow you to have sufficient filler material to "Create the repaired look" and still stay firmly in place. For the first shot at it ... I'd very heavily glass-up the area inside that section and go heavy with it on the outside, too.

You might want to use a section of a tuna can -- taped-in to form an oval-shaped DAM to keep the filler material from spreading all-over the space. You will defiantly need some major foundation. Forget about saving the inside diameter! Concentrate on what is going to show.

Before its all over, you may very well wind-up filling-up that whole cavity with fiberglass just to give yourself enough material to create the Non-damaged-looking repaired section!
(Don't forget to scribe a nice little line where the cases mate)

Good luck.
Make that broken spot disappear.

 

Kinda makes one wonder if that engine wasn't a transplant from a stacked up bike!?

 

Stacked up? Not sure what you mean.. But It seems like the bike is half 86 and half 85. The VIN has a A1AA which means its an 85 but yet it has an elongated oval Yamaha text emblem on the gas tank(86). While The XN ('85) model electrical test circuit tests only the oil pressure light, while the XS ('86) model test circuit tests both the oil pressure light and the fuel level light. This bike has the fuel level light. MIne The XN ('85) model has a more agressive foot peg tread pattern than the XS ('86) model which has only parallel grooves in the rubber pegs. Anyway you get my drift. It's a Mutant. :twisted: ! I've gotta say though this seems to be the only rough spot on the bike. Can't wait to takle this project. First metal repair job. You guys make it seem so simple.

 

MiCarl. The cover is in good shape was just holding it up there to show the size of the gap. Definitly going to use the cover to help keep everything setin the right spot. What to do about the bent crank case bolt. Cant spin out a bent bolt could crack the rest of the upper case trying to wobble out or even trying to straighten it out. Aluminum is kinda weak. Soft. Thought about cutting it off where it's not bunt then tapping a revers thread bolt into the rest that goes into the upper crank to back out the rest of the bolt. Being that lower part of the crank is going to be missing the through hole to keep that corner tight I could tack on a piece of aluminum tubing so i could tighten it up. Considering you would want to crank on it good to keep the seal betwen the two halves.
Or I could just seal the bolt up and you would never know it was supposed to be there. Hmmm.... what do you guys think. I think I'mm gonna pull an all nighter right now. I guess it's offically morning aready. 8O

 

"Stacked up", crashed, laid down, wrecked.

I'd have to see the bolt myself to decide what I'd do and the pics dont really do it for me.

Good Luck

 

Ya sorry HVNBND seems like me and the camera both don,t like the cold weather. I'll try not to shake so much for the next pics.

 

Get yourself some of this stuff.

Quicksteel Epoxy

I find it much easier to work with than JB Weld. If not "Quicksteel" there is always an equivalent product available. I know Permatex sells much the same stuff for patching gas tanks.

I used Quicksteel last year to repair a chip I took out of my motor on the points cover side of the bottom case, trying to pry them apart, not realizing I still had one stud holding them together behind the oil cooler block, inside the filter housing.

 

Ok fellas, I think i should've tried the quick steel. Using the JB is a PITA. couldn't get the black stuff to come out of the tube had to cut it open and scoop it out had to use it somehow i already opened it. Well here are some pics still waiting for it to set before I get to the shaping and smoothing

 

forgot you gotta load things backward so there in order around here

 

THEE ... Absolute ... Number One ... Commandment ... and unwritten Law for dealing with the situation like you have with that bolt.

"Don't do anything that will initiate the misery and anxiety of a possible viscious-circle type of repair job, if the present situation can just be left status quo."

If it's NOT leaking; don't make it leak. You're lucky to not have a leaking crack all the way back to the tail light.

For now ... just make it pretty.

 

I agree with Rick, 2nd rule is.........if you have to ask...... you better not touch it.
If you know a good machinest who can and will work on it where it is (on the bike) you might take the chance.

 

ya i just ended up JBing over the bolt and making it look like it belonged well it's gotta cure and we'll see what I get. This cold weather isn't helping anything stuff doesn't seem to want to set to well drooping and sagging all over the place. Why did I go with JB.(HYPE) I should've listened to my first instinct which was to use The quicksteel. Dag Nabbit :evil:

 

jb weld is going to run like a spooked deer
file it pretty, squirt some expanding foam sealer for a base the next day carve it off a little deep and finish it off with plastic wood putty
it doesn't run and gets harder than Chinese algebra
a little sanding and paint your good to go
worry about splitting the cases when the time comes, gas will dissolve the foam

 

When the time comes to split the case, seems like the prudent thing to do would be to replace the case.

 

That's a good call on replacing that lower case if the time came to ever have to split them.

But, I know, sometime down the road, I'm going to need to have something aluminum -- welded!

That's why I'm heading to Tech Night-school to learn how to TiG weld.
From watching those cute gals welding-up stuff on Cable TV Hot-Rod show's; I figure I might be able to get the knack of it.

 

Tig's an awesome art, there is a man in the town I live in that used to be a NASA welder.
I once broke the punkin on my 4X4 truck, I pulled it apart and he welded it up (TIG) and it's still working today. That was 4 years ago
>

 

wonder how difficult it would be to replace the crank case. I've done an engine rebuild on my old 1969 case backhoe. But It looks like there's a lot more stuffed into this crank then the bachoe engine.

 

also leaves me wondering if a ridgid patch will hold if it isnt aluminum.
Dissimalar metals and substances expand and contract at different rates and may seperate after time. That case does get pretty hot.


Good Luck here Tito

 

you could also cut out some window sreen and apply it to the inside of that gash, fix it down with JB or rivits, then fill over on the outside with, fiberglass or jb weld putty. Does that bolt head back out at all?

 

No the bolt is jammed tight into the crankcase in fact it's slightly indented into it. Got llucky it didn't penitrate. To damn cold outside to do stuff. I know I'm a wuss but what can i say iwork indoors for a living. I'll be sure to post pics of the finnished product when I'm done. could be a while.

 

just rember your working with aluminum..so the word for the day is (electrolysis)..so dont put mild steel against the aluminum.or down the road a while down the road youll have a corrossion problem..good luck..