Old Bike, Possible New Project.. New to Mechanics..

I bought my 1983 XJ650 Maxim several years ago from a good friend. It was the bike I learned to ride on, thus has a lot of sentimental value. It was running when I got it, but died shortly after (turned it over every few days and killed the battery I think). The battery I bought and charged I think got overcharged as the battery was hot and leaking some fluid (which I cleaned). I tried it anyways and it still didn't start up so it went into storage for a few years.

My friend bought the bike when it had about 6k~ miles on it and sold it to me with 13387 on it. He checked the valves and they were all good when he got it and told me I probably wouldn't need to check them. I am honestly terrified to attempt something like a valve clearance check, I don't want to get into the internals of the motor for fear of messing it up.

I've got some income tax money (about $500) that I can spend on the bike I'm thinking, though I keep trying to talk myself into just buying a V-Twin, which would cost more :-/

Fast forward to yesterday, I finally got it moved to my house and in my shop. Here are a list of issues I've noticed so far:

Gas has been sitting almost full in the tank, so I've noticed no rust in the tank, thankfully. I'm pretty sure the carbs will be gummed up and I'll need a new inline fuel filter and of course new gas. I was hoping to not have to take the carbs off or apart, as the extent of my mechanical knowledge is putting a header and a CAI on an MR2 Spyder.

Front forks have too much bounce, they are air adjustable, yet no residue down the forks and the seals aren't cracked. There is a bit of residue on the seal themselves. Not sure if I can just put more air in them, or if I would have to change out the fork oil and seals.

Surface rust EVERYWHERE. On the frame would be easiest to remove, as I've found some paint that eats away rust (or something of that nature). Though many of the chrome parts and various parts of the motor (mainly the pieces that are connecting a bolt or whatnot) have rust on them. Is there anything short of getting a dremmel or sandpaper to them that I can do? The rear shocks are also covered in surface rust, though I may just replace these.. I did find a $100 set of nitro shocks a few years ago that would work, though I can't recall where I found them or what the model was to find them again.

Ignition button is gone, though a makeshift one was put on the bike, it was held on with zip ties. Any other way to do this, or do I just need to purchase a new throttle assembly?

Oxidatin n the motor: I'm sure I can find some cleaner to get it off, so I'm not as worried about this.

From what I recall, the carbs were let out mostly when my friend put open headers on the bike, which I'll have to retune somehow.

Most of the other things are just cosmetic that I have to buy replacements for: Rear turn signals, front turn signals, etc.

I think that about sums it up, if I find or think of more I'll update this main post.

I've been considering just selling the bike as-is and getting a Honda Sabre 1100 due to it being a V-Twin and requiring no valve clearance checks (hydraulic lifters, yay!). But my heart is tied to this bike, I fell in love even more with motorcycles after I rode it and feel as though getting rid of it would be like getting rid of a chapter in my book of life.. I just don't know mechanics well enough and may get far too frustrated attempting to repair what I consider a 'basket case' of a bike.

On a side note, I have no tools (sad I know, though I used my friend's tools when I lived with him, which is where the bike was in storage). So I found a roadside tool kit from Chacal (another reason I want to try and stay with this bike, where else can I find a great community and an awesome vendor to find all my parts from!)

EDIT: Can any parts from my 1977 KZ650 work for my XJ650? Like the throttle grip and starter button?

Sorry for such a long post.

 

Question #1: Do you want to learn? There is a LOT to be done there; but it's not as daunting as it may seem at first. Chacal has horn/starter button kits as well as fork rebuild parts, etc.

Question #2: Are you prepared to spend a tad more than that $500, and acquire some more tools and manual(s) along the way?

Question #3: Do you have the time and patience to "learn as you go" and be careful and thorough? If you can read a manual and follow instructions, you can do this. And learn a whole lot in the process.

Question #4: Ready to get your hands dirty? Get frustrated? Feel triumphant? Be amazed?

Wanna RIDE A CLASSIC?

If so, then let's rock and roll. But yes, it will require carb work, a valve clearance check, etc., etc. No shortcuts.

Your first quest will be for a service manual. The Haynes is acceptable, a factory manual even better. I prefer both, myself.

 

Hey Gig,

let me say a few things that hopefully will help you to see things a little clearer:

1. Welcome to to the list, you're at the right place

2. your heart is at the right place

3. if you stay here, ask ANY question regarding your bike, we WILL help you get through it.

4. DO NOT look at the BIG picture. BIG picture says, "Holy crap, I have so much to do......I can't do that". Look at the small picture. SMALL picture says, "I need to do THIS one task". THEN you look at the next SMALL picture, etc......... take it ONE step at a time, and you'll get there.

5. Start button-- you can put a new button in. The contol pod is totally accessible if you just take your time, draw pictures, or take notes of where things go. If you get stuck, WE'RE HERE. If it is broke, there's plenty of parts available through members here.

6. Valve shims - you can do it. You are NOT going deep into the engine. You simply pull the tank off, a couple other things, and then you remove the valve cover which is just the top cover of the engine. Once that is removed, you're looking at the cams and the shims are under the cams. You DO NOT remove the cams for this job. You CAN do it yourself.

7. Carbs-- if you are too afraid to go into them, that's ok........I'll come back to that in a second.

If you search the forums for the forum called, "in the church of clean", you can read and re-read it, then do it yourself.

Now, if you're still to afraid to go into them, there are people here who are willing to help. I, for one. If you want to send them up, I'd do the rack for you, and we can talk particulars off-list at that point.

8. These bikes are old, we know that. BUT we also know that once they are brought back to condition, they are stone-cold reliable. I don't know as we can say that for others.

9. New bikes look nice, but OUR bikes turn the heads when they are done well.

10. If you heart also says, "But I DO want a new bike", then here's a suggestion== get yourself your new bike, and enjoy riding it BUT KEEP THE XJ and take your time restoring it. Do each step as best you can, making each part look as best you can. When you ride it, you'll enjoy your first bike, your first RESTORED bike, that YOU did yourself. Not only did you first learn to ride on it, you then learned to WRENCH on it. YOu'll end up being an XJ expert like many others here.

11. There ARE other things you will need to to do bring the bike back 'from the dead' but we are here to help you through each and every step. You CAN do it.


My first bike was an xj650 maxim. The first thing I ever learned to do was to figure out how to remove the carbs so that I could take somewhere to have cleaned. That's all I knew at the time, cuz that's all I figured out. I didn't even know this group existed. Then I had to figure out how to put them back in. THen I had to figure out how to remove a rim, remove the master cyl, etc.......all without help. I figured it out, but man, if I knew THEN that this group was here, I'd have been SO far ahead.

Now, it took about a week and I had the bike running, it was reliable to the day I sold it 12 yrs later, the new owner has been riding it two years, and loves it.

It took a Second Place trophy in the 10th year that I had it. You know the drill....find a nice new part and put it on. Ooooooh, another new part!--I think I'll put it on. OOooooooh, look at that, I'll get that and get rid of a rusty part....now look at the nice chrome!!!!, etc.......

Mommy look at the pretty bicycle!......That's not a bicycle dear, that's a beautiful old Goldwing........that's not a goldwing, ma'am, that's a 1983 XJ650 K Maxim. I restored it myself.....that's my first bike and I learned to ride on it many umpteen years ago, and I bought back years later, and then learned how to repair things, and I LOVE it SO much that I just HAD to restore it.. I'm gonna hug it, and kiss it, and squeeze it, and I'm gonna call it 'George'...........oh, wow--that's an incredibly touching story, it brought a tear to my eye. As a matter of fact, I'm going to vote for THIS one. I hope you win the big trophy. Good luck! (that IS a beautiful, bike, isn't it? Daddy's isn't NEARLY as nice as that, and his harley is only a year old.......................................................

STAY with us, STAY with it..............

Dave F

 

ScreamingG,

Welcome to the club. X1 What they ^ said.

Gary

 

I like it when complete strangers, little old ladies, whoever, says: "I don't know anything about motorcycles but that sure is a beautiful bike. Is that new?"

 

Responses in red.

 

Responses are in red. I do really like older bikes, though I'd much prefer a Virago or XS650 due to fewer cylinders, I just don't have one and would rather work with what I have and perhaps get an XS650 later.

 

if you wanna ride this thing within a couple months then you needs to break it down into what it needs to be SAFE. most important thing when you are riding is your safety.

So brakes, tires, and hand controls need to be in tip top shape. You need to be able to stop the bike, steer the bike and control the bike don't you?

next is Carbs, they get a section by themselves, they need to be cleaned and tuned so that it doesn't do something unexpected and leave you stranded somewhere.

last are lights, signals, having a look over your wiring, battery, and your gauges, just to ensure everything is functioning properly.

not everything needs to be ripped right apart just check that everything is working.

the brakes and carbs are the two areas where you need to get them pulled apart. if some things are too far outside your comfort zone of wrenching then look into getting someone else to work on those specific areas.

After some experience with working on your bike you may warm up to just diving in wrench and screwdriver in hand and learning by doing.

Good luck and hang in there

 

If you can take apart, clean, and reassemble a gun and do board work on computers, then you can do what you need to do for this bike. I'd bet it is mostly intact if it was running, and will basically need your attention and effort and only a few actual parts.

I have two Virago's and although they are slightly cheaper than XJ's to repair etc., they aren't as reliable or nearly as much fun. The XS models were the L.C.Ancestor to the XJ's and as such the XJ's are evolved beyond them. Much of what Yamaha designed for the XJ line is still in use today in their sport bikes. XJ's are great bikes, plenty fast, and have a reputation for being extremely well designed and built.

You will be shocked how easy the valve adjustment really is once you've done it. They should be checked about every 5k miles, but often only a few or even none will need adjustment-but no way to tell if you don't check em. Your valves will 'tick' audibly at idle when they are adjusted right. If they are silent they are way tight (see engine failure). I owned a Nighthawk with hydraulic valves, they add weight and can be very expensive when they do fail-I felt just like you at the time though-now I know better.

Lots of parts online and often locally you can find a parts bike. XJ4Ever our parts guru (top right of page) has a ton of parts and the best service you will find. Here's an ebay sample.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

The hardest things to do on these bikes are related to opening up the cases and rebuilding internals. I seriously doubt you will need to worry about that with the mileage this bike has as long as you get fresh fluids in there and do the preventative maintenance.

You will need other tools, but I would just pick them up as needed so you don't spend all your dough on things you may or may not need. I'd say that is always a good policy for doing a project. It is possible if your dedicated you can be riding before the hot humid 10lb mosquitoes return.

Welcome to the site, and welcome to your new OCD passion. Those tendencies will serve you well with this.

 

Good checklist. As far as carbs, my cousin said if I can pull them and bring them to him he would look at them. Though I'm thinking of doing what I read here and getting four containers and taking each of them apart.. The quicker I learn about them, the easier they will be to take apart and tune the next time. I much prefer carbs over FI due to the simplicity (once I've learned) to tune and fix.

 

The Viragos aren't as reliable? I was always under the impression that V-Twins would always be more reliable than inline 4s.. I do remember reading somewhere that the parallel twins like the XS had some mechanical issues due to the design, is this true? I've always wanted to build a cafe-style bike.. LOVE Cafe Racers.

Thanks for the ebay link! I was searching for Throttle Assembly I think and wasn't getting much of anything, though the ones that your search link brought up won't work for the XJ650. :-/

 

MercuryMan,

Just found this one on eBay.. Will it work? It doesn't look anything like mine but it has my bike listed as one that it will work for. Mine has a twist turn knob for the RUN switch and a round start button.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RIGHT-SWITCH-CO ... 81&vxp=mtr

 

as long as the plug for the electrical is the same then it should be a direct swap.

 

If your right control pod is actually broken, as in, the casting is broken, then it's time for a new one. If the metal castings themselves are not broken, then you only need whatever internal parts are faulty. It's a simple clamshell.......top and bottom. top has the switch (which is easily replace-able) the start button is a simple button with a spring, inside a cage (which is removeable). These parts are all READILY available.

That all said, if the casting is broken, PM me, I probably have one around here somewhere. If I don't, someone else does....IF someone else doesn't, ebay always does.

Valve shim job, it takes longer to explain than it does to do. The tool will be more complicated than using the simple zip tie method. Search the archives for the write ups on it. Also, let us know where you are located....probably a list member is near you.

That is NOT the correct right control for your bike. It MIGHT work, but for that cost or less, you can get the correct item.

Virago--They are a reliable bike, but the starter gear 'rocks in a box' problem of the 81-84 750 and 920 models is also reliable. If you haven't had it happen yet, you WILL. If you had it happen and fixed it, it WILL come back. They are KNOWN for it. Maybe is should say FAMOUS for it, or REKNOWNED for it. LOL The later (84-and a half on), were better. They went to a different to a 4 brush starter and changed the starter stuff a little bit to alleviate the issue. The rest of the bikes from 84+ on up, are BASICALLY a maxim design without the engine cradle, and very similar to the 85-86 xj700. There are differences, but loads of similarities and cross-over of parts, too.

Dave F

 

Why not just get a CORRECT switch pod, they're all over eBay. Any year 650 Maxim and any of the 550s are the same, plug-n-play.

If you want RELIABLE then you absolutely have to catch up on the maintenance. Which does include the valve clearances. They were supposed to have been checked initially at 3000 miles, and they DO need to be checked every 5000 miles. The reason being, the clearances tighten as they wear, not loosen. Eventually they can hit zero clearance, at which point the valve is no longer closing properly and will quickly become burnt. Pulling the head to replace a valve is one heck of a lot more complicated than just staying on top of the required maintenance in the first place.

The V-Twin Virago and the XS series of twins have screw-type valve adjusters which makes the work a tad easier; but THEY need to be checked and adjusted more frequently.

The only bikes you'll find that don't need valve adjustment at some point are those with hydraulic lifters, like the Honda Nighthawk used to be. Most high-performance engines still have shim adjusted valves, except that most now have the shims UNDER the buckets like the "X" motors (camshaft removal required to adjust.)

The bottom line is this: an XJ Yamaha can be as turn-key stone reliable as any modern bike. But to get it to that point, it has to be brought current on maintenance, and kept that way. Once everything has been properly remediated, you can go 5K miles at a time with nothing but gas in the tank, an oil change and keeping an eye on the water in the battery and the air in the tires.

But you have to get it completely to that point. Until you do, it won't be "reliable." Rideable, certainly. Reliable, not so much.

 

Make that "infamous." It's why I don't have an XV920R in the garage right now.

I wonder if they fixed that in the later 980cc European version, the TR1?



Did somebody say "Cafe Racer?" This one's just too sexy, I couldn't resist:

 

Yup, that too...............

Maybe that would explain why the only 920 parts I have are just that-----parts, no complete bike. LOL

Dave F

 

The red one looks like a Seca with a V-Twin put in the frame!

 

Virago's starters are a PIA and even the fix is marginal, they did redesign it later but some early V's can't use the new starter. They also had problems with the back cylinder overheating which could lead to component failures-I've seen it now on several 750's. I'd bet in most of those cases the owner wasn't doing proper maintenance. Other than those things they are rock solid. I haven't heard anything really bad about the XS's-just that they weren't as good a mousetrap as the XJ's.

I'm fairly sure that ebay link I posted has several right hand controls which match yours. Keep in mind several XJ parts are interchangeable, not all but many. You just have to check the part #'s, or ask the seller questions, or post the ones you think match yours up here and let us look to id them. It's just a matter of taking the time to investigate. Once you think you have one then you must assess the seller as completely as possible (ie read the small print) and/or ask questions to determine the likelihood of getting what you need.

 

Fitz......you sure come up with some nice pics...........

dave

 

I've only found a couple of right hand controls that matched mine on eBay and they are upwards of $40+ and look to be in real rough shape.

The valve clearances were checked when my friend bought the bike around 6-7k miles and it now has 13k miles.

I love the way this bike looks, though I think I'd want to try it with the rounded tank I currently have, I'm not too fond of the look of the Seca tanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTpFSQayh6k

 

Found it! This is the way I'd like my bike to look, minus the flames.



EDIT: Just noticed it didn't have the seat on. I can't seem to find the one I found a year or so ago where it was completely finished.

 

"They should be checked about every 5k miles,"

you still need to check them.

its alot easier than you think
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... ement.html

 

It's overdue. 7+5=12.

I thought you wanted to learn and make the bike reliable in the process; and now all you want to do is come up with different reasons to NOT do the VERY FIRST PROCEDURE IN THE MAINTENANCE SECTION of the shop manual: the valve clearances.

Plus, if you're serious about actually riding and using this bike, then it's something you'll need to learn because you're going to need to do it again in 5000 more miles.

Get serious or give up now.

 

Sorry. I do want to learn and do it correctly. I'm gonna buy a shim kit once I get my income tax in and go ahead and try it. Before I asked on this site, several people have told me to not bother with the checks just to get it running and see if it sounded like it needed it.. Though now that I've read the guide, I know you can't properly tune carbs without having correct valve clearances (learn something new every day). Means I need to throw whatever advice I got outside of this forum out the door and follow instructions given here. I do apologize again for sounding ignorant and non-serious about this bike.

I need to start getting a list together of what I need so I can order it from Chacal all at once (or at least as much as I need first hand).

It will probably be a couple of weeks before I can get the tools to start working on the bike and purchase the shim kits and possibly carb rebuild kits (another thing I was told to not worry about and just run cleaner through them). Gonna read some more tutorials on the site here and learn while I'm waiting on my Haynes Manual.

 

So, perfect timing for this post===

If you wonder why it's important to check valves, even with low miles--

I am in the middle of re-assembling the project 650 that was brought in last week. Long story short, the guy tore it all apart because 'it had no compression.....well it was low'.

Now new piston rings, valve stem seals, gaskets, etc.... I put the valves back in the head, just finished so am in to take a break and check xjBikes.

The 3 and 4 INTAKE valves had at least a half millimeter of carbon on them. Maybe even more.....there's so much carbon that the 2 angles on the valves didn't go like this:

_/

The were more like:

/
|

Now they're all cleaned off, and back in the head. Time to install the cams. Then I'll do a shim check before putting everything back on the bike.

Dave Fox

 

You'd be wise to acquire a Genuine Yamaha Workshop Manual specific to your Bike.
The Factory Book has BOTH the Workshop Sections and Owners Manual.

Everything's covered.
Illustrated.
Sections on Troubleshooting and Testing.

Leave it on top of the toilet tank cover and read it while you are answering natures call.
Sooner or later you'll be one of the forum members answering questions and giving advice because you'll really know your S$#@!

 

What I did ( and am still doing) to save the cost of buying a $160 set of shims, I checked my clearances, double checked my clearances, recorded each results, then slowly removed, recorded and re-installed each shim to do my calculations.

once I was done I figured out which ones I needed to order and which ones I could just switch from the bucket it was in to the one it needed to be.

All 8 were tight, but I only had to order 5 shims. which cost $8. they will be in on Tuesday.

 

That sounds like a huge PITA and difficult. Guess mine isn't as much of a 'basket case' as I thought.

 

I looked for a while for a Factory Service Manual and all I find is one for the XJ650G (Seca?) and the supplementary manual and owner's manual. I intend on getting a Factory Service Manual also. I have time at work to read on some nights, once I get the Haynes Manual in I will be reading it instead of my current novel.

 

That would probably be more wise for me to do buy a kit. I didn't realize they would be that expensive.

 

also whats the point of buying shims you don't need, and you wont know what you need until you do your checks. that's if you even need any.

check first, order shims after.

 

According to the parts cross-reference application I finally was able to run on my wife's computer, the right hand controls of the XS1100s years 1979 and 1980, of the Viragos 750 1982 and 1983, also XS400 1980 to 1982 and other XJ550 and XJ650 models bigfitz talked about are supposed to fit on your bike.

 

DON'T go buying any sort of 'shim kit'.

The procedure is simple overall:

measure current clearance
pull the current shim and record the number
do the math to find needed shim
get the needed shim and install it

repeat for each valve.

Sounds like a lot when you read the write-ups, but it should take you about half an hour to do the WHOLE thing. The first time will take longer, but you'll get to a point where you can: check clearance, check your chart for what's currently in the bike(you DID right it down last time and saved it right), do the math in your head, put the right shim in, and be done.

Now, where to get shims:

You can:

1. move shims around if you have the right one in another bucket, getting only the ones you DON'T have

2. order brand new from xj4Ever

3.contact me, or the few other guys who run shim pools and we do a swap. The way the shim pool works is easy too: you tell us what you need, if we have that size in, you send a deposit, we send you the shim, you do your swap, you send your old shim back, you get your deposit back. The only cost is for shipping, and if we have to go with a NOS or new aftermarket shim, there is nominal cost for those.. PM me for more details when needed.

The shim check job is NOT a hard job.

You are learning quickly-- check here for the correct things to do, do not just rely one what someone somewhere in some shop told you. Keep in mind that MANY shops now cater to NEW bikes that are diagnosed by computer. Our bikes are NOT diagnosed by computer, but rather by people that still KNOW the old bikes, these in particular.

FWIW, I used to be terrified of the idea of going into the carbs, or shims, or whatever.............each time I said, "I gotta just do it" and dove in. EVERY time it turned out to be a, "that was it!?!?!" moment.

You CAN do it.

These bikes were built by simple people using simple tools and came up with a genius formula that works very well. These bikes don't take rocket scientists to work on them. You just have to understand them (and sometimes think things through.....)and ask us.

That's what we are ALL here for, THIS is what we DO.

So, in short............DON'T go buying a 'shim kit', whatever that is anyway............do the measurements, figure out what sizes you need, then get only those. If nothing else, tell us your measurements and current shim sizes and WE'll tell you what you need to do.

We'll get you there...........we always do.

Dave F

 

Ok, for my project the was brought in last week.........

The shims have been checked so I know what I have in there now. The cams are now in, caps on. Tomorrow I hope to finish the chain tensioning, and then I'll do the clearance checking, and see what I need.

Hopefully, I'll be able to set the engine back in the bike this coming weekend.

Gig, no it's not a hassle. It's actually easier right now, since the head had been totally disassembled before it was handed to me all I had to do was put the valves and springs back in (I also put new valve stem seals in while it was open). To check the shims was easy since the buckets were bagged with each valve and labeled. All I had to do was pull the shim out and record the number. Once everything is back together, it's just like if I had done it at an earlier mileage check.......all I have to do now is the clearance measurement. Then check the chart. If I have to swap something, then I swap. Easy peasy.

Dave Fox

 

That's good to know. I'm gonna write those model numbers down and try and find one that works. I'd rather the switch that is on the one I posted and not the turn knob one that is currently on it.

BTW, where did you get a program that can cross reference parts that will fit on the bike? I'd love to get ahold of a program like that.

 

I've looked over the valve clearance check several times. The more I read, the easier it seems. The only thing that still worries me is the math. I'm sure it is quite simple, but I always find myself second-guessing my math, even on paper. I don't know why, I just never trust my own math. Heck, it will probably take me longer to do the math than the entire rest of the procedure. I'm so excited to get some tools and start working on the bike. Tearing stuff apart and putting it back together used to be a favorite past time of mine. I love taking apart computers and reassembling them, but they are far too simple and easy.

 

That's good to know. I'm gonna write those model numbers down and try and find one that works. I'd rather the switch that is on the one I posted and not the turn knob one that is currently on it.

BTW, where did you get a program that can cross reference parts that will fit on the bike? I'd love to get ahold of a program like that.[/quote]

It is on a CDROM that you could get online for a very reasonable price at xjcd.org, it is actually a 3-CDs set, with manuals and parts diagrams and tips and so on. Very impressive work from a bunch of passionate guys.

I got my set a few years ago when I owned my Maxim-X, but all XJ models are covered.

 

Don't worry about your maths, there is one chart for intake valves and one for exhaust valves, you couldn't go wrong with them. Get a manual, charts are in there.

I forgot to give you the part number for your control: 2H7-83975-01, called "switch handle 2" in the parts diagram.

 

Oh, yeah! The Chart. THE chart. THE CHART!!!!! You record your current clearance, you check your current shim size. Now, you look at the chart and see where your measurement falls and what shim is causing it. Now you read the other column and it tells you what shim you need. Easy peasy. See, you CAN do it.

Dave

 

It can easily be done using a Yamaha online parts fiche, like this one: http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oempart ... ycle/parts

You look up your part number in the fiche for your bike, {copy} the part number; then go back to the "motorcycle" index page and {paste} it into the "search by part number" box. Once the result comes up, you click on "where used" and it will give you the whole list of Yamahas that use that exact same part number.

The WHOLE list I got for the switch pod was:

1979 XS1100F
1980 XS1100G
1980 XS400G
1980 XS400SG
1980 XJ650 (XJ650G)
1981 XJ550H
1981 XJ550RH
1981 XJ650LH
1981 XS400SH
1981 VIRAGO 750 (XV750H)
1981 XJ650 (XJ650H)
1981 XS400 (XS400H)
1982 XJ550J
1982 XJ550RJ
1982 XJ650J
1982 XJ650RJ
1982 XS400SJ
1982 VIRAGO 750 (XV750J)
1983 XJ550K
1983 XJ550RK
1983 XJ650K
1983 MIDNIGHT VIRAGO 750 (XV750MK)
1983 VIRAGO 750 (XV750K)

The advantage to the CD is that it covers cross-references that Yamaha doesn't admit to (like the fact that the Seca 550 and Seca 650 front fenders are identical except for color/finish.)

There's a copy of the shim chart in my valve adjustment how-to. But you honestly don't need a chart; one size smaller shim adds .05mm to your clearance, two sizes down adds .10mm. Let's say you have an out-of-spec exhaust valve measuring .14mm with a 265 shim installed; installing a 260 will give you (add .05) a clearance of .19mm, in spec. How about an intake valve at a tight .03mm with a 270 installed? Installing a 265 would only put us at .08mm, we'd need a 260 to get us in spec at .13mm.

Keep it purely metric and it's as easy as Pi. :wink:

 

There is a lot more than just the cross reference application in the XJCDs set. For me, that was the best source of written informations I've got (bike related, I mean).

 

This notice appears on a separate page, all its own, in every Genuine Yamaha Workshop Manual published.

The Yamaha Publications are subject to Copyright.

 

Another cool thing about the discs is that there's a lot of nice bike pics on there.

Dave F

 

I seem to remember that the copyright concerns have been properly adressed by the XJCD team, but Brad would certainly be able to answer that question.

 

As of this date, Feb. 4, 2013 ... there has been Absolutely NO Permission ... NO License Issued ... and NO Authorization what-so-ever given to the Publishers of the aledged Illegally Distributed Genuine Yamaha Workshop Manuals published and distributed on Compact Discs ... known as the XJCD.

The XJCD enterprise, Yamaha says, is Piracy of Copyrighted Material.

Questions regarding the legality of the Pirated Literature held under Copyright may be directed to:

Yamaha Motors Corporation, USA
Customer Service ~ Public Relations
Kennessaw, Georgia
Ph. (741) 761-7300

 

Rick is right, the XJCD is a "bootleg" and believe it or not, some of us don't have one (XJCD.)

All of the resources it includes are indeed available elsewhere; just not all in one place.

This horse is already quite dead from all the beating it's gotten over the past 5 years or so.

 

Oh, the poor horse.

Dave

 

So where do i get a copy!

 

Go back a few posts, it is all in there!