O'rings for throttle shaft

Having a heck of a time trying to get the shims out. When I put my small screwdriver under it, the ring that holds it in place comes up also. I'm pretty sure that doesn't come out. What can I do?

 

i use a small screwdriver the kind you can clip into your pocket. and a magnet to lift from bucket.

put screw driver in and rotate cw and ccw to pop shim free you may need to add a little oil to top of shim and through the slot.

 

Small screwdriver under the shim, lift it slightly, then use a pair of curved artery forceps to grip it and lift it out cleanly.

 

They have never been replaced and the bike hasn't started until last year. Things are stuck good.

 

It's just oil sticking them on to the buckets.

 

I bought a cheap set of pickers. I got three of them out, but running out of energy after a long day at work. Try to get the rest out tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys!

 

you are putting them back in as you find the size correct?

 

Yes. I have been watching a sh** ton of videos on how to remove them. Something about the 4 horsemen of apocalypse come if you don't put them back. Don't want to meet those guys!

 

if you have a compressor, a puff of air pops them right out. magnets work too but be quick about it

 

I can get the shims to pop out of the seat, but there isn't enough space to pull them out. Is there some sort of trick I can do? I'm using the zip tie method. It locks in place and doesn't move at all

 

Mabe you need a bigger zip tie. Reminds me of Jaws they needed a bigger boat lol. No seriously are the valves open enough the way the Yamaha tool would open them fully to give you enough clearance to get the shim out?

 

I thought they were, but I did manage to get another one out. 4 more to go. Wish I would have remembered just what it looked like when I popped the last one out. Going to watch some more videos and see if I can spot something.

 

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

Have a read at this.

 

I believe I'm not getting the zip tie in the right place. I need to look into the spark plug hole and see the valve, and then put the zip tie in. Try again tomorrow.

 

Yes l have not used zip ties to hold valves open but it needs to hold valve away from the seat enough to let you get the shim out. Keep at it you will get them changed. And make sure you put the numbers on the shim against the bucket otherwise the cam will wear the numbers off. Then you'll need a micrometer to measure the shims at a future shim change.

 

After looking in the spark plug hole, it is way easier to find the valve. I did the last 4 in less than 20 minutes.

 

After taking all the readings, this is what I have.
Inlet 1 - .04mm Inlet 2 - .08mm Inlet 3 - .06mm Inlet 4 - .08mm
Exhaust 1 - .13mm Exhaust 2 - .15mm Exhaust 3 - .15mm Exhaust 4 - .10mm
IS1 - 275 IS2 - 280 IS3 - 280 IS4 - 286
ES1 - 260 ES2 - 270 ES3 - 265 ES4 - 270
So if I'm reading the chart correct, I need to have IS1 - 265 IS2 - 275 IS3 - IS4 - 280
ES1 good ES2 good ES3 good ES4 280
Someone please tell me I read the chart correct.

 

intake 0.11 mm to 0.15 mm

exhause 0.16 mm to 0.20 mm

sx1 0.13 out of spec ES1 - 260 go to 255
ex 2 .015 mm out of spec ES2 - 270 go to 265
ex 3 0.15 mm out of spec ES3 - 265 go to 260
ex 4 0.10 mm out of spec ES4 - 270 go to 260

swap es 1 into ex 4
swap es 3 to ex 2

you got these correct
in 1 0.04 IS1 - 275 to 265
in 2 0.08 IS2 - 280 to 275
in 3 0.06 IS3 - 280 to 275
in 4 0.08 IS4 - 285to 280

 

I should swap es 3 to es 2?

Glad I checked these. I remember a wise member saying to check and change before I try to sync. Thanks for the help! Not bad though, I only need to order 4 new ones!

 

you can swap the shims to where they will fit