pickup coil

Hey guys,
I just joined the forum yesterday and was very pleased to find it.
Would someone know if 82 xj650 pickup coils will fit a 81 maxim 550
Thanks Will

 

as a full unit here are your chocies

• • 
    This Yamaha 4U8-81671-10-00 Base, Pickup is used in the following models and assemblies:
    • 1981 XJ550H - Pickup Coil Governor Xj550h J K
    • 1981 XJ550RH - Pickup Coil Governor
    • 1982 XJ550J - Pickup Coil Governor Xj550h J K
    • 1982 XJ550RJ - Pickup Coil - Governop
    • 1982 XJ550RJ - Pickup Coil Governor
    • 1983 XJ550K - Pickup Coil Governor Xj550h J K
    • 1983 XJ550RK - Pickup Coil Governor

i will add this

• so if the individual unit is the same size and will screw onto the plate it MAY work it has the same specs as a 550

1982-84 XJ650 Maxim: 650 ohms +/- 20% = 520 ohms to 780 ohms acceptable range

 

are both of your pick ups bad or just 1

 

I'm not sure I tested them right. I tested from the wires going into the CDI and with the tester set to OHMs
They read around 96 and 98
Oh yea! I forgot to mention I'm not getting juice to the spark plugs
The pickup coils had a lot of corrosion and I tried cleaning them up a bit

 

test from left connector of the TCI disconnect it you should have 650 ohms
test the gray wire to the black wire and the orange wire to the same black wire
NOT the black white wire.
are you getting 12 volts to the tci?

your specs
XJ550 models:
Pick-up coils:
650 ohms +/- 20% = 520 ohms to 780 ohms acceptable range
Ignition Coils:
Primary side (input from main wiring harness):
2.5 ohms +/- 10% = 2.25 ohms - 2.75 ohms acceptable range

Secondary side (spark plug wires, without their end caps):
11K ohms +/- 20% = 8,800 ohms - 13,200 ohms acceptable range
Spark plug caps:
10K +/- 20% = 8,000 to 12,000 ohms per cap acceptable range

Spark plugs:
0 ohms per plug

to test coils
disconnect the right side connector at the TCI redwhite wire to gray then redwhite wire to orange 2.5 ohms is what you want if out of spec remove gas tank and disconnect coils connector and read there. clean all connectors as you unplug them use dielectric grease when reconnecting them

spark plug wires
spark plug caps unscrew take them off and ohm them out 10 K ohms

test wires 1 and 4 for 11K ohms
test 2 and 3 for 11K ohms
you will want to trim back the ends of the plug wires about 1/2 inch to get at fresh wire

 

reading for you
The Information Overload Hour

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

THE SECRET LIFE OF CARBURETORS

Something New, Something Naked

The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

 

"I cant seem to post in the topic I started this morning.
How is the best way to test plug wires being that the coil side is sealed?"
Thanks Will

Unscrew the ht caps from the ends of the coil wires.
GaryH.

 

Check the pic out from his other thread (please don't start new threads for the same problem). http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/still-not-a-spammer-plug-wire-question.85298/

At this point are we no longer talking about your pickup coils? The pic you posted is of one of the ignition coils (not the same thing).

How to put new plug wires into sealed coils.

 

Same as with any other coil. Primary side across the primary leads. Secondary side across the plug wires (be sure to remove the plug caps and measure those seperately).

 

Thank You, I'll do some more checking.

Thanks! Hows a good way to test the plug wires being that the coil end of the wire is sealed?

I thik I'm missing something.

The coils check out its the plug wire I need to check Are you saying the gray wire to the plug wire?

 

No. Grey (or orange) to black. Plug wire to plug wire.

 

so the end of #1 to the end of #4 and etc.

 

Yes.
Remember to remove the plug caps (lefty loosey) and measure the resistors in the caps seperately.

 

will do

 

Okay, everything checks out from the pickup coils to the plug wires
but I'm still not getting any juice through the spark plugs

 

so you ohmed out all the components including plug caps?
have you trimed back the sparkplug wires 1/2 inch to get to fresh wire ?

do you get 12 volts to the red white wire on the right TCI connector with key on?
does your side stand relay under the seat click when you turn the key?
unplug it and test for spark again.

the test for spark is to take a spare spark plug hook it up and ground the end to the motor and look for spark.

 

Thanks! I'll check those things out.
Yea I've been testing the spark that way

 

Again, to make sure we are all talking about the same parts. You checked both the pickup coils (found next to the crankshaft under the round cover on the left sode of the engine) and the ignition coils (found under the fuel tank along the frame backbone). Is that correct?

 

Yea sir, Every thing checks out even the red/white wire going to the TCI. I was jumping the bike from another bike. I went and got a new battery today and when it's done charging I'll try again. I also got some new NGK plugs to see if I can get a spark
BTW the starter relay is bad so I'm crossing it with a screwdriver. I don't think that should make a difference though

 

Correct; the starter realy would not be related to the ignition issue.

 

Motor spins good with new battery but still nothing to the plugs.
When I first took the cover off the pickups had a lot of crud around them.
BTW do get adjusted?

 

there is no adjustment to the timing it is electronic.

that looks really bad not sure if the rust will cause problems.
I have a pick up base I will send you for postage if you want it, I will look to see if I have an extra rotor too

 

Non adjustable. The TCI takes care of ignition timing.

The starter spins, so it's not safety citcuit related.....

The ignition system checks out in terms of continuity and resistences...

I think it may be time to ship one of us your TCI for testing on a running bike, unless someone else has an idea of what else to check.

You are making sure to ground a plug on the head when you check for spark?

You haven't tried starting it with any of the plug wires disconnected with no path to ground? (This is a bad thing to do. Each coil has to have a path to ground or the TCI can be damaged)

 

Yea I cleaned the ends and put on a new connector. You can hear it click.
I tried both ways with the relay on and off

 

You have double checked that the ignition fuse has continuity and both terminals for that fuse have continuity (the fuse clips oxidize and crack with age, leading to intermittant contact)?

 

Nevermind my comment about the safety really (I edited it out). It interrupts the starter motor circuit.

 

I just tested a TCI for

macksimman

and will be mailing it back to him tomorrow . 34 degrees 50 mile ride loved it.
I would be happy to test your TCI for you. Just click on my avatar and start a conversation with me I will give you my address.
if you have me test it I will send you the parts I mentioned above, Will have to check for the rotor.
you will want to start using some penetrating oil on those screws that hold the plate to motor as well as that allen bolt
do not remove them untill you get the part(s) treat them every day

 

I got a new ignition switch from ebay . It was supposed to be a K&N but was a Emgo.
I also put in new line fuses. 20 amp for the main and 10 amp for the other 3
The main is hot and when I turn the key to on the other 3 circuits are hot
I think its hooked up correctly

 

cool wiring diagram interactive
http://www.frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html

does your starter cutoff relay click when you turn on the key bike in neutral it is under the tank.
sidestand safety is at rear fender under seat.
both should click when key is turned on.

 

Sounds great!

 

sounds correct so you installed something along this line for fuses. and tail light lights up? when key turned on

my test clip

 

I did the test with the neutral relay and I'll check the starter cutoff relay in the morning.
I think I checked it but I'll make sure

 

I did my fuses this way

 

Unplug the sidestand switch.

 

never thought to do it that way but it does give you access to both sides of the fuse holder to test voltages.

 

tried that and with a new connector both

 

have you ohmed out the tci right side connector to the primary coil connectors at the coils for continuity?
red/white wire to both connector and gray and orange

 

Yea they checked within tolerance. I'll double check that in the morning also

 

not what I mean but as long as a test from tci connector gave you primary coil specs your wiring harness from tci to coils is intact

 

Now I know what you're saying. From one to the other to check for breaks. continuity

 

Unless the neutral switch is the reason the starter cutoff relay is not working. The ignition safety circuit is controlled by the side stand relay, which opens a set of normally closed contacts if in neutral OR the side stand is up. You must have either a working neutral switch OR a working side stand switch to enable the TCI.

In a working system that will disable the ignition if not in neutral as the side stand switch contacts must close to energize the side stand relay and enable the TCI when not in neutral. The neutral switch is effectively wired in parallel with the side stand switch in reference to the side stand relay, so as stated above, you must have a working neutral switch OR a working side stand switch to enable the TCI.

For troubleshooting purposes related to ignition and enabling the TCI, remove the side stand relay temporarily. This will defeat the ignition safety circuit to the TCI controlled by the side stand relay that applies a ground through a set of normally closed contacts at the B/W wire to disable the TCI.

 

I could have sworn I typed side stand switch relay. Thanks for the catching the mistake.

 

Thanks for the help.
Okay did a continuity test from the TCI to the coils
red .4 ohms
gray .4 ohms
orange .4 ohms
other red .7 ohms

 

Should we test the TCI if those numbers are okay

 

above numbers show you have connections that is good.
the last part to rule out is the TCI
just to recap
all ignition and pickup coils tested to spec
spark plug caps tested to spec
0 ohms on spark plugs
good continuity to ignition coils from tci connectors
you have 12 volts at the TCI red/white wire with key on
correct spark plugs NKG D8EA gap .024 to .028 inch
no spark when plug is tested against motor for ground
did you cut the spark plug wires back about 1/2 inch to expose fresh wire?

unless the condition of the pickup coil base plate is the problem being rusted as i would not know if it has to have a good ground to motor to work.
I will send you a clean plate and rotor with the return of the tci if you want it tested.

I know this can be a leap of faith for someone to just send a part to an internet forum poster, but that is up to you.
I will leave it as a standing offer.

 

You've been a HUGE help and I trust you completely.
And I appreciate it and will return the favor when I can.
I took your advice and did all of the above right down to snipping the plug wire.
I'll go over everything one more time tonight just to make sure

 

try testing the black gray and orange wires for the pickup coils (left tci connector) to ground to see if there is a short .
the cable is held tight tot the frame in its routing

 

I don't know if I did it right but I set the tester to ohms
touched the red probe to the wire black probe to ground on the battery
got 7.2 for each wire

 

you need to retest tci connector first do not touch probe tips when testing

I just checked mine with 6 position connector disconnected from TCI you should have no readings to ground.
did all 3 of them to confirm
meter set to 200 ohms probe to battery ground black reads open no continuity
gray same open no continuity
orange same open no continuity
no reading on meter.
your wires may be pinched some place in the routing
disconnect the the Black /white wire and the other bullet connector it is the neutral switch wire and remove the whole harness.

you will want to remove the lower plastic fender ,unstrap the frame straps follow down under motor more frame/motor bands holding it up.
you will also may have to remove the shifter cover to get at the neutral connector.
foot peg has to be removed to remove the shifter cover the shifter lever can be a pain to get to nut (1/4 drive extention with a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor works)

 

Haha The TCI is headed your way.
Thanks for the info. I will defiantly check it out.