1. Some members were not receiving emails sent from XJbikes.com. For example: "Forgot your password?" function to reset your password would not send email to some members. I believe this has been resolved now. Please use "Contact Us" form (see page footer link) if you still have email issues. SnoSheriff

    Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

please with polish and oxidation

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by zapperredtank, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. zapperredtank

    zapperredtank Member

    Messages:
    63
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    Location:
    lincoln uk
    hi
    i come across a problem i can get my engine looking like a mirror finish , however after a couple of damp days and even though bike is under cover i get that white oxidiation on alloy , i wonder if after i polish with autosol i polish with normal paint polish it will give metal some protection , has anyone else had this problem
    thanks for any help
    UK mike
     

    Attached Files:

  2. jdrich48

    jdrich48 Member

    Messages:
    692
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    Smithfield, North Carolina
    Hey UK mike;
    I have been using Mothers BILLET Polish, not regular mothers metal polish. This is Billet polish. I polished my grab bar, lower fork tubes, and several other parts with this 3 months ago and it's still shining. I take some windex and clean the bugs off and it shines right back up. I have thought about putting car wax on them but I haven't had to. I also thought about clear coating them, but most clear coats will yellow or dull the shine. As long as this Mothers stuff holds up like it has, I'm going to continue using it. I haven't even had to reapply this stuff since I first put it on. I like it.

    What I need to know is how or what type of tools are you using to polish your engine. I'm wanting to polish mine. I guess I need to get a dremel.
     
  3. woot

    woot Active Member

    Messages:
    1,244
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=44.777479+-
    A drill with a buffing pad - or a wand on a dremil like tool. Saves time and if you get good pads gives good results. Beware of scratching and swirling :-/
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Active Member

    Messages:
    7,479
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    Autosol did it's job UK Mike. You need to shield the freshly exposed metal against further oxidation. Clear laquer spray is commonly used unless you like to polish often. I've seen some good clear polys out there but they are thick and a little yellow. PJ1 sells a good clear, I'd take that route myself. Barring that, Minwax makes a Diamond clear that is good and sprays easily. Used it on my brother's XVZ1300 forks, they still look great two years on. As for a polishing unit, you will find the dremel takes a long time to achieve the finish your after folks. Get a dedicated buffing pad and either use a power drill or the 1/4 h.p. polishing/porting tool that is out there with a flexible shaft. It will last a lot longer and the polishing bits are readily available. Harbor Freight (sounds like a broken record what) has one for about $65 on sale and is perfect for the application. Good luck and listen to Woot, you can leave a mess all too easily on aluminum so start with a gentle hand. Cheers!
     

Share This Page