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Primary Chain Rattle Question

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by jckstar33, Sep 5, 2013.

  1. jckstar33

    jckstar33 New Member

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    After a bit of homework I think my 'clutch rattle' is in fact a loose primary chain.
    Firstly to end my confusion..is a starter chain the same thing as a primary chain?
    The rattle quietens down a bit when you pull in the clutch or I think maybe when you're riding (hard to tell with a helmet on and engine noise etc).

    How important is it to get this fixed? I'm game to have a go at it with my trusty Haines manual in hand (is that dumb for a novice?) but I don't want to rush into it if it really isn't a safety issue.

    Is it more likely to be a worn tensioner or worn/stretched chain? The bike has done at least 80,000k's could be as much as... well who knows?

    Appreciate any feedback
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    WHAT BIKE???

    If it's a chain driven 500, 550 or 600, the primary chain is oil-pressure tensioned.

    If it's a shaftie, the "starter chain" and the "primary chain" are the same thing.

    Give us some facts, man.

    What oil are you running? How well tuned is the bike?

    WHAT BIKE??? (oh, wait-- I already asked that...)
     
  3. jckstar33

    jckstar33 New Member

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    Thanks for the reply,
    1984 XJ600 (pre-diversion) Chain driven.
    20W-50 Multigrade for car (all I had on me at the time!)
    New clutch fitted, followed my manual to the letter (ie all fiitted correctly).
    Oil pump cog has got a lot of play in it back & forth (not the oil gear cog on the back of the basket but the one actually on the pump itself)
    My Haines manual only refers to a starter chain... no mention of a primary chain, but does mention primary gear, so I'm thinking that it's the same thing??
    Bike runs reasonably well, goes like a rocket at speed (can sometimes be a bit sluggish from the lights) but have not had carbs synced since I just bought it about a month or so ago. Ticks over when warm at about 1000 or so (difficult to tell as it has a crappy digital tacho on it at the mo)
    Running stock at present but am changing that to K & N with a jet kit later on.

    One thing tho... bike came with an oil filler cap cross threaded so doesn't screw all the way down to the rubber ring. Could this cause loss of oil pressure enough to cause the rattle? I have one on order am waiting for it to turn up.

    Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.

    Will get round to a tune and valve clearances etc when i've got some time. (i've been busy writing to forums!)
     
  4. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    First months I owned my Maxim-X, the primary chain used to be noisy at idle because the carbs were out of sync.
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I'm curious as to why you started another thread, just to get the same answers.

    Car oil isn't motorcycle oil; modern car oil isn't good for our bikes. Find some motorcycle-spec 20W50.

    "Following the manual" is why I wrote the clutch article; the proper orientation of the tabbed plain plates is barely covered in the Clymer and skimmed over in the factory book too. I didn't know Haynes made a book for the 550/600's, if you're using a book for the shaft-driven bikes you'll have a lot of detail differences.

    "Ticking over" at 1000 rpms will not produce the proper oil pressure. The bike should be idling at 1200rpm.

    There are oil pump rotor-to-body clearance specs in the manual, it's possible that your oil pump is tired as well. But a low or uneven idle and the wrong oil will certainly exacerbate the issue.
     

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