Problem checking rear brake

I was trying to remove the rear wheel to check (replace) the brake shoes, but I am having trouble getting the wheel off the axle. The clearance is too small between the end of the axle and the muffler. (Picture attached.) Also, the muffler looks like it is rusted or was badly welded(?) to the other part of the pipe. (Picture.) It's held on by a metal band. Any advice?

Thanks,
Tim

 

Hi Tim,
Only 2 options...
Yank the shock bolts and drop the back wheel or remove the right hand side muffler to get that axle out. I know it's not an easy way but there isn't an easy fix in this situation.
Good luck!

PS: A bit of time with an oxy set will get your rusted out collector sorted out or a bit of skillfull arc welding or mig work would be appropriate too.

 

Sorry, ignorance speaking: what's an "oxy set"?

 

"Oxy set" is a oxygen and acetylene gas torch used for welding/brazing and cutting.
I agree your easiest option is to remove the shock bolts to drop the rear down to get the axle bolt out. From the looks of the rust if you try to remove it that will just create more problems right now. It will need to be addressed at sometime.

 

I always have to remove the hex screw that holds the muffler to the frame so the muffler moves more freely; I can then push the muffler up slightly to get enough clearance to remove the spindle/axle.

Should just be that extra screw to remove for you (make sure to replace or your muffler will vibrate a lot!). Not sure if the bad weld job will make that any harder for you or not...

 

When I removed the metal band holding the muffler on, it just came off. Not really even connected to the pipe. So I got the brake drum open, but I could not even budge the wheel. Do I need to take the wheel off for any reason? Other than dirt, the axle and the plate look good. Even the brake shoes were not falling apart (replacing them anyway).

Seriously, this forum has sort of become my life! Thanks.

Tim

 

If yours is shaft driven (like my 82 XJ750), I'd recommend taking the wheel off since you've got the axle out anyway. It'll take a bit of effort to get it off, but it's a good thing to do so you can:
1) Replace your tire (which you should do if older than 6 years OR worn)
2) replace the o-ring around the splined flange
3) wipe off old grease and re-grease splines and bearing seal 'lips'

its a pain to get it back on with the splines lined up the first time you do it, but its good know-how. Also, if shaft-driven, definitly change out that final drive oil; I did and mine had plenty of metal shavings in it.

The haynes manual goes thru all the things I listed above; you should get one if you dont have it already...

 

The manual says pull the wheel to the right; is there something special to get it off? The final gear oil looked great when I opened the bolt on the top.
Thanks.

 

The wheel has it's own splines that are interlocked with the final drive splines. It's just stuck.

Being careful not to knock over your bike, give the tire a little kick on the right and left side, alternating until you feel it break loose. Then just work the wheel side to side until it completely slides off the final drive splines.

If YOU didn't change the final drive oil, do it now. It lasts a long time, but if it's 30 y/o, you'll want it out. You'll see how much metal comes off of the magnetic drain plug when you do.

 

As with anything on a 30 year old bike... time and patience, or something's gonna go wrong....

It's not the top... it's the crap thats settled in the bottom you should be worried about.

 

Oh.... I know what your problem is. Yes... Usually you have to drop a bolt to lower it... Sometimes you can use a pry bar gently to press down on the pipe and rubber Mallot it out. Guys... The wheels nt stuck to the final... He can't get the axle past the muffler to drop the tire

 

Actually, now the muffler is off, and the brake cover is off. I just couldn't move the wheel. I'll try again when I get home.

Thanks!

 

Oh. I still saw the axle bolt in the picture. My bad... Then yes. Tap it from the left to the right and it'll work itself out like previously stated

 

The trick to removing the wheel from the final gear is you jiggle it...

If you don't it's almost like trying to separate a piece of glass stuck to another piece of glass with water between them... if you know what i mean.

Kneel on the drum side of the bike, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and jiggle it towards you with even pressure and it will slip off.

 

Appreciate it.

 

jiggle jiggle and then jiggle some more!!!

 

Howdy Timotheos, you stated that you have the brake backing plate off, please clear something up for me, with the wheel still on, how did you get the backing plate off? You see, it's been my experience with 3 XJ's that the wheel comes off WITH the backing plate still inside the drum, because there is not enough room between the swing arm and the backing plate. Just curious, thanks.

 

It took some doing. Here are pictures of the rear wheel and the brake shoes I took out.

 

I think what LVSteve2011 is referring to is that you can't remove the backing plate with the shoes installed (and can't install it either). Either that or it's just too tight to attempt (and you'll scratch up the backing plate).

I'm guessing timotheos jimmied the shoes off the backing plate before removing?

 

did you get the wheel actually off the bike?

 

I got the shoes and plate out together, but it took a little pushing on the wheel and the swing arm(?). I couldn't get the wheel off at that time, and I wanted to see the brake. I do not think I scratched the plate, at least nothing that was obvious. I haven't tried again to get the wheel off yet, since I've been gone for a few days. I'll try again tonight.

Also, if I mislabeled something, forgive my mechanical ignorance. By plate, you mean the part that holds the shoes, correct?

 

Yeah, that's what I meant. No worries, I doubt backing plate isn't correct terminology either. I could have sworn there wasn't enough room to get the shoes+plate off on my 750 seca, but I could have just never tried it.

 

Howdy ManBot, the brake shoes are attached to what's called the backing plate, tho, the Haynes manual has it as the "back" plate. Timotheos, the right way to remove the wheel is to leave the backing plate inside the wheel and remove them as one unit. This way you don't risk scratching up your backing plate. Also you really shouldn't put stress on your swing arm doing it the wrong way. If your wheel is stuck, sit on the ground/floor, grasp the shock with one hand and the frame with the other, and with your feet on each side of the wheel, while rocking it back and forth, push with your feet and pull with your hands. It would be prudent to have somebody there with you to steady the bike.

 

This is proof that if you don't know something's impossible, you do it.

I didn't think you could get the brake out with the wheel still in place, either. Shows initiative.

WHILE IT'S APART: Besides cleaning up the backing plate and greasing the brake cam, be sure to clean the inside of the drum with Scotchbrite (not steel wool) and wipe down with a rag soaked in brake cleaner. DO NOT use compressed air and be careful not to be breathing any brake dust.

You might also consider replacing the rear wheel bearings too. There is no effective way to remove them without damaging them, and you can't clean and re-grease them without removing them. They're not expensive; and it's not a difficult job. I did a how-to using a 550; it includes notes and details from the manuals for the shaft-driven bikes too; have a look: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=35134.html

 

Got the wheel off. Once I did what cds1984 suggested above and grabbed it at 9 and 3, it came off very easily. Thanks for the advice; being absolutely new to this, I appreciate the help thinking about things I otherwise would not have.

You guys are awesome.

 

yeah, dang, never thought to do it like that!

glad you got it off!

putting it back on is kinda the same way, just gotta be patient and jiggle till it drops into place, deff not the time to try forcing anything, as once its lined up right ittl just slip right into place.