Problem starting

Back again. I changed the alternator brushes and it ran pretty good...for awhile. Back to the initial problem -- It wants to start the first couple of tries, but then there's nothing if it won't turn over on those first two attempts. I don't have a voltage meter, but the idiot lights are bright, the turn signals work, and the horn is loud.

If it turns over for a few seconds, the headlight comes on, but if it dies and I turn the key off, then there's no headlight. I have no idea if this is normal or not on this bike; I figured the headlight came on when you turned the key on. Anyway, if I let it sit for awhile and go do something else, then it tries to turn over again...but only a couple of times. Any subsequent attempts result in nothing -- no noise, just the oil light coming on when I hit the ignition button.

Have I got some bad wiring in my headlight? Is it possibly in my ignition? It's a garage-kept bike and gets only short, weekend trips at most. Also, on the second attempt at the ignition button there's a delay between when I push it and when the starter begins its attempts at firing her up.

I'm completely baffled.

 

The symptom you have is usually due to Carbon Dust accumulating on the Commutator of the Starter Motor.
It also means you might have to replace the Brushes in your Starter.

When the Commutator gets fouled with Carbon Dust the Starter gets lazy.
Sometimes it won't do anything at all. Other times it seems to have to decide it wants to spin after waiting for a moment.

A quick fix might get you to the end of the season before having to replace the Brushes.
It involves having to Spray Clean the Electrical end of the Starter.

You can buy Electrical Component Spray or just use Isopropal Alcohol in a Trigger Spray applicator.

Pull the Starter and remove the two long fasteners holding both ends to the Main Body.
Handle with care.
The ends want to fall right off without the two fasteners holding the thing together.

Ease the Aluminum Case on the Electrical end away from the Body of the Starter.
Not too far or the Brushes will slide off the Commutator and you'll wind-up having to struggle to get them back on.

Spray the whole Electrical end with the Cleaner or the Alcohol.
As the Cleaner drains-out into a collection pan, watch it as it goes from dark to clear.
Keep flooding the Electrical end with Cleaner until what you spray in is as clean as what is draining out.

You want to rotate the Starter and be sure that you have cleaned-out the entire accumulation of Carbon Dust that's fouling things up for you inside the Electrical end.

Both the Cleaner and Alcohol will evaporate without leaving any residue.
Let the Electrical end evaporate dry and slip it back on to the Motor.
There is a tab that fits a slot on the electrical end to make sure the Case and the Motor Body are lined-up right.

Button-up the Starter Motor and test it for function.
Hook-up the Ground of a Battery Charger to one of the fasteners and touch the Contact Post with the + Side.

Hold on the the Starter tightly.
The Motor makes a lot of torque.
If the Spray-out works ... you might be OK for awhile.

But, be prepared to need to replace the Brushes on your Starter at the End of the Season.

If the Clean-out does not work ... you need to replace the Brushes and Overhaul the Starter.

 

Thank you immensely, Rick! I'll give that a try.

 

aso check your connections at the start relay, mine started to do that last week, cleaned up the connections and voila, she worked, just a suggestion.