(PSA?) Manifold bolt torque

Hi everyone,

I just figured out something that has been plaguing my bike for probably the better part of 4 years... I had been having a rising idle (when hot), which led me to have my idle screws way too far out, etc... As you can guess, I was trying to compensate for a lean condition. This led to fouling while idling and white while under power.

A few days ago I replaced my intake manifold gaskets (paper with permatex spray a gasket (the red, tacky stuff). Bike ran worse that before (spitting, misfiring, etc...) the whole nine yards. Maybe needed a sync???
Picked up a used carb sync for 60 (canadian), tried my luck again. It was impossible to keep it idling right and then, there was the dreaded chirp/kiss. On a misfire I actually saw a spritz from carb 4 intake manifold!

Resigning myself to removing the carbs and sourcing a new set of gaskets, I removed the carbs and took the alan key to the manifold bolts.... just past hand tight!!! For shits I used the 7.2 foot pounds and multiplying by 12 I set my small torque wrench to 86.5 inch/lbs. Re-tightened all to that spec, reinstalled the carbs (reset to 2.25 turns out) and holy, what a difference. No more hanging idle or rising idle as the bike warms up... Went for a rip on the highway and after leaving the idle sat at 1100 rpms, which is something it's never really done.

Moral of the story: don't be afraid to torque to spec, and trust your tools!

Now, onto the slipping clutch!

 

Update on clutch: Seized cable! Replaced and no slip + no more stumble (for those who remember me from back then). Today was a good day. Ride safe guys/gals.