Reed Switch?

Hey guys. I was having problems with my turn signals last fall, and I decided to put it aside for a while. I've gotten back into it this week (with a buddy who knows a lot more than me), and I've got a question.

Is the Reed Switch supposed to be normally open or closed? Mine is open. We checked the voltage, and it was measuring out of range (it was measuring 9 ohms, and the manual says it should be around 7 ohms, and if it's not to replace it. It also looks like it is kind of burnt).

Also, where could I get one of these?

The problem is that the turn signals would only work when I would kind of slam the handlebars like a hard left turn. Then the signals would work. We cleaned up all the connections and got it to where we could just slightly turn the handlebars to the left and it would work. That's when we started looking at the service manual, and got to this point.

The bike has new turn signals (regular ones, not LEDs) and a new turn signal relay. I also replaced the turn signal control last fall, so everything else should be fine.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

have you cleaned the signal switch?

to my understanding all the reed switch does is work like a timer / distance meter to shut off the signals. My flasher cancelling relay must be fried because i have to manually turn them off.

I haven't even tried to locate the relay yet . its buried un the frame head somewhere.

 

The reed switch reacts to the rotation of the speedometer magnetic head opening and closing 4 times per revolution (IIRC) to provide information to the cancelling system that the bike is A: moving, and B: how far/fast. It is normally open and closes as the speedo head rotates past it.

If you need JUST the reed switch itself, I might have a used one that will work. I doubt it is the source of your problem however.

 

wondering if it's a per chance a short in the line/wire? you have to turn it a certain way for it to work? therefore sounds more like a bad wire?

 

We cleaned out the switch, and that's what changed it from taking a big turn (and smack) to the left to just a little.

Assuming that I'm not too worried about the auto-cancel, can I just connect those wires where the Reed Switch used to be? Or should we just hook up the old switch again?

We've already checked the wires up in that part of the bike, and there were some split wires, but they're all taped up now, and it hasn't helped yet. Our next step is to go through all of the wiring, checking it all, and cleaning all of those connections.

 

Take the switch apart again and make sure everything is in place and not loose use electronics cleaner.

 

We did take the switch apart, and cleaned it all up.

He was also thinking it might have been the reed switch because it was working decently well, with just a small turn to the left with the handlebars. But when he took the reed switch out of the casing (still hooked to the wires) the blinkers stopped working all together.

With a lot of the feedback I've gotten so far, it seems like it might be a bad wire. I know that before I changed the rear signals, the wires leading from the old left signal were fried. It didn't seem like the wires at the front were bad (at least not as obviously fried), but maybe that's the culprit. Unfortunately, I won't be able to get back to it until next weekend.

 

i woulnt tape the wire up. did you just tape the wire or did you replace that section of wire? I know from passed expirience even if the coating of the wire is not split the wire on the inside might have rusted out. i had this happen of my ford a way to check it is.

cut a lenght of wire that will go from the componet to component shorting out the whole section of wire. if it works then cut out that section and replace it with a new one.

for example if its going from the switch to the relay and its not working inless you turn it. cut a piece of wire taht lenght attach it to the relay and then to the switch and see if ti starts to work.

if it does that means that the wire on the inside has rotted out and the outside still looks good.

this is more comen then expected on EVERTHING with wires. its how i got my windshield wipers working again

try that and report back. sounds to me like the problem, tape just doenst cut it. espicialy if there was a splice in the wire already condensation just in there and rusts out the whole thing.

 

Ihad turn sinal issued on my maxim. The signals would wor for a day or two and then not work. After many trips to the turn signal switch I bent the piece that holds the moving arm of the switch and now they are as solid as snap on. I had to get pretty frustrated before trying the bend but only one judicious bend with a pair of needle nose pliers and she took right off. I was certainly glad to be done with it.

 

A reed switch is magnetically operated, you can check it with a small magnet and an ohm meter.Remove it from the circuit, if the meter across the switch indicates an open then you bring a small magnet to the switch, it should close. If normally closed, then it''s reverse. Reed switches are used in alarms, telephone switches and some equipment like printers. They do fail in use, but usually they get broken by ham handed techs or users.