Replacing Clutch Cover Gasket Intelligently (82 Maxim 750)

Hokay. So I'm an idiot and over-tightened one of the hex bolts securing my left side clutch cover and it sheared off. Now I get to try and back it out with a drill and tap set. Yay.

When I get the replacement bolts (if I can find them) and another gasket (which I ripped in the process of pulling the cover back off to assess the damage when I snapped the bolt) let me make sure I don't screw this up again:

1) Are there torque figures for the 5mm hex bolts securing the case cover?

2) Do I need to use any gasket sealant with the OEM gasket? I'm replacing the gasket because of an oil leak but I'm not sure if the previous gasket had any sealant on it. I've got Permatex regular gasket sealant on hand (not the high temp high pressure stuff, just regular grade).

3) If I do use the gasket sealant, how long does it have to sit before I can refill the oil and crank the engine? Should 3 hours be enough (that's what the sealant sets in, but I don't know about gaskets at all)?

4) Am I an idiot for repeatedly breaking bolts on my bike?

Thanks guys.

 

Can't answer 1.
2 I would do,
3. Not sure but when we did the crankcase cover gasket, we put the oil in as soon as it was bolted down.
4. Not at all I just snapped 5 of the 8 bolts that hold the carb joints in.

As far as finding a new bolt. I found them at my local hardware store. I don't think it will be that hard to find.

 

1, i think it's 7.2 ft/lbs
2, i use yamabond and no gasket
3, sounds right
4, not a idiot, more like a gorilla .
get your socket set up on a screwdriver handle, two hands make it tight then 1/8 to 1/4 turn with a ratchet, works for me

 

1: Yes, and Polock's right, it's 7.2 ft/lb. Matter of fact, it's 7.2 ft/lb for all of the case and cover screws all over the bike.
2: I use high-tack spray, on only the 'cover' side.
3: If using high-tack spray gasket sealer, you can refill with oil as soon as it's back together. Other products may requires some "drying time."
4: You need a low-range "micrometer" torque wrench; good addition to your toolbox for working on these bikes: http://thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2530-k-d-tools-3459.aspx

 

I've got a smaller torque wrench that goes down to 10 ft/lbs but I guess there's always room for one more.

The funny thing is that I was always such a pansy about physical labor - before I turned 21 and got into guns I literally could not stand to get my hands dirty. Now I'm just amused when I keep breaking things and cursing to no one in particular.

Thanks guys, awesome info as always.

 

The torque wrench I suggested is in INCH pounds; its range translates to 2~20 ft/lbs.

There's a lot of stuff on the bike that goes to less than 10 ft/lb; and any torque wrench is NOT super accurate at the extreme ends of its range.

 

See I always wondered how a lot of curses were made. Now I feel it is fairly obvious. Mechanics are the only logical answer

 

MILITARY mechanics.

 

I "Pre-Treat" the Clutch-side Gasket before reinstalling the Cover.

I Paint-on Sealant to the Outboard-side of the Gasket and the Inboard-side of the Cover and "Mate" the two sides, ... using an an assortment of Drifts and Pin Punches to keep the Gasket aligned at all the holes.

I "Iron" along the untreated Inboard-side of the Gasket to PRESS the Gasket to the Cover -- tightly and spread the Sealant.
After the Sealant "Cures" for awhile so the Gasket will remain in place, ...
I take some additional Sealant and "Run-a-bead" along the Inside where the Gasket meets the Case.
(Leak protection)

While the freshly applied Sealant firms up on the Beaded joint, ... I apply Sealant to the Outboard Case that will receive the Gasket and Paint the Inboard Gasket covering the whole surface with Sealant.

Then, I Install 3 "Dummy" long, headless Cap-screw "Alignment Bolts" into the Case.
(Hardware. 3 - 2" Metric Allen Bolts with the Heads cut clean off and Grinded to a rounded-off point.)

I slip the Cover ON over the 3 Dummy Bolts and Very Lightly "Tap" it into place all-around the Case.
I place Fasteners in ALL the Holes not occupied by Dummy Bolts and use a "T-Handle" Allen Wrench to Tighten the Cap Screws down to "Snug, Hand-tight" ... Alternating by skipping-over every-other-bolt.

I remove the Dummy's.
Insert Fasteners.
Tighten hand-tight.

First wipe.
Using a Tee-shirt, ... I wipe the excess Sealant OFF and Into the Joint.
Torque to Specs.
Second Wipe.
Dry. Wipe-off excess Sealant.

Wet. Clean-off smears of Sealant.
Clean section of Tee-Shirt wrapped around index finger.
Moisten with Carb Cleaner.
Wipe off Case.
Change to clean section of Tee-shirt as needed.

 

The problem with that is by "glueing" it on both sides it will be destroyed in any subsequent removals.

If the case is not distorted from overtightening or cracked, that cover doesn't need a whole lot of sealing to stay oil-tight.

The main reason I "glue" the gasket to the cover is so it goes on correctly due to its complexity.

 

Okay, so I'm progressively screwing myself.

Drilling out bolt for tap - break off first drill bit but thankfully doesn't get stuck.

Get second flat-faced drill bit (which goes in much more nicely and is making quick progress) when it shatters, completely stuck in the shorn bolt. Surface is completely level again.

I know this sounds stupid, but can I just use gasket sealant, the new gasket, and have 9/10 bolts tightened on there? The drill bit I broke off is harder than the surrounding metal and I'm not sure how to fix it . . . I haven't been riding in weeks and this is really pissing me off.

 

You probably could, yes. Which bolt did you break, is it down toward the bottom or up top?

Get both surfaces religiously clean, seal the gasket on both sides and glue it together; fill the broken off bolt hole with a glob of RTV so you can dig it out later to fix it for real.

It will probably hold just fine. There's more force applied to the clutch cover by the throwout mechanism than by the oil trying to get out.

Here's the EASY fix for your broken off drill: http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=574

 

It worked fine. I could have just left the first new gasket in place and it would have been fine. Ah well. It doesn't leak anymore.

I put everything back together today. She's fine (except for the headers being a tad loose, which is outside the purview of this thread, and now I go SEARCHing).

 

EGAD. If they're loose at the head, STOP and ask. Loose at the head is a quick way to ruin some exhaust valves. Been there, done that, got not only the t-shirt but a matching coffee mug.

 

Subsequent removals require a subsequent Gasket.

I make my own Clutch Gaskets.
Use a newly made Gasket every time the Bike needs a Clutch, ... or for whatever other reason might come-along requiring pulling the Clutch Cover.

Cam Cover gasket, ...
Sure. Just Oil it. You'll be back in there every 5~7000 miles.

Clutch Cover, ...
That's a different story.
There's a little window in the Case, with Mr. Oil peeking through it, ... all the time, ... just looking at the outside world and trying to get out.