replacing fork seal issues

The left fork was leaking when I bought the bike, so I had the seals replaced by a local shop. The left fork continued to leak, and I used a piece of 33mm film to check for debris between the seal and fork and it stopped for a couple of weeks and then started again. Repeated efforts with the 33mm film have not worked, so I guess I am going to have to go into the fork.
1. Is there a link to replacing/servicing the forks?
2. Since the seals are new, what should I be looking for that might cause the left fork to continue to leak? The tube is bright and shiny with no rust, but I did find a minute dent in the tube about two inches above the seal.
3. Can I remove just the one tube that is leaking?

 

Re: replacing for seal issues

The "minute dent" may be the issue. Exactly HOW "minute?"

 

Re: replacing for seal issues

Agreed.

If you can feel it it's going to be a problem. Furthermore, it's probably not a dent but a pit. Pits have razor sharp chrome edges that slice up the seal.

 

Re: replacing for seal issues

About the size of this"0" and very shallow. Since it didn't leak for a couple of weeks it seemed to indicate that it wasn't the cause. However, I can easily see how it might cause a slight leak. Any way of filling it?

 

Can you get us a close-up pic?

It is VERY POSSIBLE that it is indeed the cause; it could be simply carrying fluid past the seal, or it could have damaged the seal.

I'm not aware of any sure-fire guaranteed way to fix it but I'm sure you'll get any number of suggestions. It might be possible to fill it with a dab of JBWeld, and then carefully sand/polish that smooth but I cannot say that I've done it and had it work.

 

If the surface of the dimple is roughed up sufficiently, and cleaned properly (absolutely no oil residue can remain), it can be filled with JB Weld or another suitable epoxy. I've had the best success by using a chicken coop lamp ( the clap on type) to keep the epoxy and fork leg warm while the epoxy cures. Once the epoxy cures you will have to go over it (carefully) with finishing paper to be sure it's flush with the fork leg, and smooth. The epoxy repair can last for several years, but a proper repair will eventually need to be done (either by replacing with another good-used fork leg, or sending yours out to be welded, re-ground, and hard chromed).

 

As it turned out, it took me a long time to find the "dent" I mentioned. When the bike is on the ground it is not visible. Putting it on the center stand and using a flash light I finally found it and it is very small, about the size of "i". I guess it may be classified as a small pit. I tried to take pictures but it's too small to show up. I find it hard to imagine that the entire leak is coming from that spot. Everything else looks good. Maybe I should just go ahead and change the seal and do a good cleaning of the fork. I have a sneaky idea that the shop just pulled the seals out and put in new ones without doing any cleaning. So, back to my first questions: is there a link showing how to properly remove, clean and replace a seal, and can I do just the one that's leaking?

 

Imagine.

It only takes one small pit, with a sharp edge as Carl described above, to ruin a seal. Once the damage is done, you've got a leaky seal. OR the shop damaged that one installing it.

Nobody's done a comprehensive "fork seal how to" mainly because they're different from bike to bike. It's a pretty straightforward process though; and yes you can just do the one side.

 

K-moe is on the right track. I have done the same in the past.

 

I am also having to replace my fork seals...My questions is does anyone know of any fork gaitors that will fit the 83' xj900? It will prob take away from the bikes looks but if it saves me the hassle of replacing the seals i am game.

 

I checked several youtube videos about changing fork seals before I did mine. Lots of ones with the same type as XJ's.
Chris.

 

Thanks, I'll google it.

 

Don't google it, youtube it.

Chris.

 

If you go down the epoxy road suggest you give the dint a quick hit with a flame to sweat the oil out before proceeding. Make sure you lube the seals with fork oil before fitting.

Plenty of gaiters one ebay. Just measure up and away you go.

 

You still need to replace the seals if they're leaking and ensure the tubes aren't already damaged.

Gaiters will prevent nicks and dings; but they don't keep the seals from eventually wearing out. They do lengthen the service interval and reduce potential future repair costs though.

And they don't need to detract from the appearance if you do them right so they look like it came that way.

 

I'm going to post a picture of the "nick" and perhaps it will be visible. I looked for gaiters but didn't see any specifically for the xj, so I assume a generic set will work. I am a little curious about how they would attach to the lower part of the strut.

 

ebay
check the measurements, but these might be close

 

Here is the picture of my "nick"--hope you can see it. What do you think?

 

Do you see those vertical scratches about an inch higher than you're pointing at? If you have any of those in the normal travel stroke of the fork, it may be tearing the seal up. See if you can feel with your finger nail those scratches, if you do, you need to buff those out when you replace the seals. It can be done with fine grades of emery cloth going perpendicular with the scratches. Ideally spinning in a lathe but it can be done just by wrapping the emery cloth around the fork and rotating. Don't use coarse paper but something in the neighborhood of 800 grit or finer. Chrome is pretty hard stuff so you wont be removing much material. The idea is to remove the sharp edges not all the chrome. Most shops don't turn the forks for scratches when they change the seals unless you tell them to. Also, when you slide the new seals on, put a small plastic bag over the fork tube end and some synthetic grease on the seal before you slide it on. The grease will serve two purposes, to lubricate the seal as it slides and to prevent stiction. A lot of seals get messed up if the end of the tube cuts into the seal while installing them...

 

Thank You, I'm still waiting for a couple more replacement rubber o-rings before i start the tare down, but am really thinking on going with gaiters this time.