Replacing rear brake shoes...

I will be replacing my rear brake shoes this weekend, but I wanted to ask to see if there is something else I should check/grease/oil while I have the tire down.

I was thinking about checking my final drive oil and I was told that there is a grease point that I need to find and check.

Any suggestions would be appreciated...

 

Final drive oil replacement does not require wheel removal - the drain and fill are on the outside of the drive assembly.

I just recently did my brake shoes since I had the wheel off for tire replacement. You should probably check and repack your wheels bearings, but I didn't get that involved (I know, bad owner - they were done last time). Everything looked to be in good condition. I just wiped off what old grease I could and applied some new (of the same type/color). I don't recall anything else needing grease, but I cleaned and polished all of the brake linkage while I had things apart as well.

The brake change itself is easy - just don't pinch your fingers. And don't breathe the COPIOUS amounts of (likely asbestos) dust that will come out of there.

 

ok, I found the diagram I was looking for. Should I repack the bearing at 20-50 while I have the tire off?

 

You may want to put a touch of grease on that flat tab that spreads the brakes shoes apart.

 

Remove the Brake Lever off the splined Shaft and push the shaft back into the housing and out.

Thoroughly clean the Bushing that surrounds that shaft.
Stuff the Bushing with steel wool and twist the steel wool cleaning the surface of that shaft.

Clean the shaft.
Put the cam in a vice and refinish the surface of the shaft using 3/4-Inch strips of 800 Sandpaper and "Shoe-shine" a bright new finish on the shaft.

Once the shaft is de-oxidized and shining again ...
Use synthetic waterproof grease.
Grease the Bushing
Grease the Shaft.

You'll have non-binding rear brakes as a result of your hard work!

 

That picture you have is of the final drive unit. All the parts are being lubricated with your gear oil which you can change without tearing this unit apart. There's nothing in there to repack!

 

That's what I needed to know. So if I changed the final drive oil, I should be fine then...

 

If I remember correctly, you can't get access to the bearings to repack them, unless you remove them. And if you remove them, you typically destroy them.

A better option is to go and get some SEALED bearings. Put them in the freezer in the original wrapping. (Unlike water which expands when it freezes, metal contracts.)

Carefully drive out the old bearings, look for threads on how to do this. I believe Master Rick has a thread or three on it.

Do the cleaning as others have suggested and then using a blow dryer, gently heat up the hub to expand it.

Take the frozen bearings out one at a time and then reseat them. Handle the bearings as little as possible to keep them cold.

Have fun and be prepared for a smoother ride.

 

How many miles are on the Bike needing the new bearings?

What's the symptom that has you believing the bearings need to be replaced?

Or, are you doing this just to install new bearings because you have the rear-end down?

 

Rick,

I was responding to his saying that he was going to repack the wheel bearings. I don't think they can be repacked. Am I incorrect?

I am going to replace the rear berings on my bike one of these days. Just because. And, for the knowledge. It has around 33K miles.

 

They are a bit of a challenge.
You'll need a 9-Inch Line-up Tool to use as a Drift.

The Inside Bearing is a tough because you can only work through one side of the Hub to knock it out.
Like the steering Head Bearings ... There isn't a whole lot of purchase for the Tool to catch the Race.

The excellent news is ... the bearings are a Worldwide Standard Size.
If you bring the ones you knock-out to a Bearing Supply Outlet ... the replacements are "Lifetime Sealed and rated for more load and Jet Turbine RPM's Certified.

You couldn't go as fast as the Bearings are rated for if you wanted too.
Give the guy your old bearings and a $20.00 Bill.

He gives you the Boxes with your New Bearings and change for the Twenty!

 

At what mileage should you be considering new bearings in the wheels and steering head? My Bike has 40k but I am not seeing any issues at all. I have only owned it a month and have no idea if they were changed by a PO or not...

 

All I was worried about is keeping that bearing lubricated, but if the gear oil around it is sufficient, then all I am going to do is change out the gear oil.

 

Well, I pulled the shoes off the rear tire and found that I have plenty of shoe left, but when I applied the brake before, it sounded as if it was hitting a wear mark.

Should I chalk this issue up to brake dust?

 

Some brake shoes have a "Leading" and a "Trailing" shoe.
You'll have to look at your shoes to tell.

If the Brake Material is bonded to the shoe -- Off-set ... with more material at one end than the other ... you have Leading and trailing Shoes.

The Leading Shoe needs (with the Brake Material closest to an end of the Shoe) ... installed such that the end with the Material closest to the end is on the Shoe spreading Cam ... Not the stationary pivot.

Likewise, if there is a Trailing Shoe ... it, too needs to be installed such that the motion of the Cam spreading the Shoes places the most Brake Material out to contact the Drum.

Chamfer the edges of the Brake Material on all sides of the Shoes.
Remove the sharp right angles.
Round-off the edges.

Chamfering Brake Pads keeps the Pads from emitting an annoying squeal when the Brakes are applied.

Front Brake Pads; too.
If your Brakes squeal ... Pull the Pads and Chamfer the edges.
Goodbye squeal!

 

also, where is the adjustment for the rear brake to toggle on the brake light. Per my manual, it is on the right side of the bike, but I can't locate it?

Anyone have a picture of it...

 

Right on the Brake Switch.

The Body of the Switch can be raised or lowered to have the switch activate the Brake Light sooner or later ... depending on the height of the barrel of the switch within the Hex adjustment nut.

 

I found it and looks like the connector to the spring broke, as the spring is missing as well.....

 

Missing or broken spring is rather common. New ones can be had for about $15. Hit Chacal up.

 

Hi… that was great stuff..

Fergie Shoes

 

You know, I still need to replace my rear shoes, too. It looks easy enough to get the wheel off - what do you need to do to get at the brakes shoes inside after the wheel is off? Do the halves just fall apart, or is there a trick?

 

The brake backing plate with the shoes on it easily separates from the wheel/drum assembly; as you said "the halves just fall apart."

 

Thanks!