Searching for parts and knowledge

Looking for a reasonably priced stator and regulator for a 1992 xj650 or for someone wanting to purchase a xj650. Also is this a job a amateur enthusiast should try?? I have basically you tube knowledge when it comes to this repair and what I've found in these forums. From what I can tell it seems to be a little involved. I'm not even for sure I have all the tools required for the job. The deal with the bike was a preexisting problem I bought it with. Which the previous owner didnt tell me anything about. I should've been a little more cautious about the purchase but this is my first motorcycle purchase. Had a unexpected bit of money and the wife's blessing so I wanted to get a bike before blowing the money or her changing her mind. Anyways the bike was running when I showed up to check it out and the guy came a good ways down on price so I was like if this runs and rides its mine. It did and it was. I rode the bike home about 30miles and it was awesome. The headlight was a little dim I thought just because it's a old bike and I was used to new car headlights. Well the next day I go to start it and it struggled to start a quick trip to a family member house to show them bike maybe 10 min and it started right up to head back home. Two days later I have to jump it for a trip to store then call my wife to the store when I'm stranded because bike won't start. Since then I've purchase a battery maintainer and plug the bike in after every ride. I have done a few long rides like over 100 miles and the bike never dies while running. But stop and go little trips any more than 3 times and the battery is dead. I did replace the battery the bike came with with a brand new one. Thought that fixed it the bike even idled better and sounded better but after a few trips its back on the battery maintenance routine. I haven't done any testing with voltage meter because to be honest the whole resistance ohm DC ac thing gets confusing and I only recently purchased a cheap one after reading post in this forum. Also I have checked the fuse box it looks ok has blade fuses I removed the headlight housing and cluster although the signals upfront had crappy splices which I replaced with male female buttend connections the wiring looked good. I also noticed while riding when I put on the signals the cluster lights and headlight pulse. I assume that's due to a lack of voltage because the battery is doing the majority of the power supply job. So I did some phone call diagnostic work and called a local shop told him basically what I just wrote minus new battery because I hadn't replaced it yet and he told me probably the battery and if not he explained a process to isolate each component of the regulator and stator to test each one which I promptly forgot after hearing most likely the battery. I know it has something to do with a voltmeter so I bought one and here we are at this point me writing a book about my issues. One other thing is the turn signals switch likes to stick on when I activate it I have to fiddle with it turning the signals from right to left on and off before hitting the sweet spot to deactivate them. This I'm sure makes me look like a jackass to other motorists when I'm riding down the rode. So any suggestions on a fix for that would be appreciated as well as any and all performance upgrades in the way of power and speed. If there are any brave souls that even make it through this novel and still are gracious enough to provide me with any advice. To those who do, I thank you in advance, and commend you as well.

 

92 650?
just needs the tool which is a bolt type thing

first thing you want to do is start bike measure voltage at Idle then at 2000rpm and 3000rpm.

then read how to test and evaluate your system, you may just need brushes and a good cleaning of the connectors

the info you seek is in this ehread
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

 

Add one more thing to check on top of @XJ550H ’s list . Every ground wire attached to the frame. Every motorcycle that lives between SanFran and Vancouver BC is in the wet and rusty zone. Corrosion of ground points is very common.

 

So I've gone through the wiring harness and visually inspected all if the wiring. I've also gone through and tested resistance and continuity. I've found no breaks in the wiring insolation that are visible to me. The only thing I thought may be an issue is the connectors going to the horn were melted at the end. I replaced them but now the horn doesn't work. I have taken 3 short rides over 2 days so far no dead battery. Perhaps I moved something or by disconnecting and reconnecting all the harnesses plugs I fixed a lose connection somewhere. At this point I'm unsure I will have to wait and see if the battery becomes completely discharged again. I will post a update if the problem returns. Thank you for all your help you guys rock as does this forum.

 

I checked the voltage and it never went above 12.5 and had a quick drop to 11 while crankingfrom what I have
read this signals a bad battery but I literally just purchased this battery brand new. Perhaps I purchased a lemon. Bike seems to be working fine in the short term I will update if it acts up again. Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge with me.

 

read link I provided could be bad brushes or connections is your problem. The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide
if youcharge battery let sit over night it should read 12.8 volts

 

This is similar to the problem I had. Battery tender kept the battery at about 12.5 and I had no problems starting initially. Ride it a while and park for an hour or so and it would not start, although it would crank over. It ended up being that alternator brushes were worn out or fouled by an old oil leak in the alternator shaft. Prior to replacing the brushes I had about 11.5 volts at idle and a max of about 12.6 at higher rpm. After brushes were replace I have about 12.5+ at idle and slightly under 14 volts at about 2500 rpm. No more problems and an added bonus of a little higher miles per gallon.

 

So I cleaned the brushes and reassemble charged up the battery and I'm left with the same results. So I guess I'll be purchasing brushes. Anyone know how much brushes are and a easy link to order directly because trying to locate parts on the catalog on this site is hard because with my limited knowledge I don't know in which section to look so for the last 2 hours I've been scrolling through page after page. It is very well done but for that reason its very large and hard to navigate quickly for the less knowledgeable folks. Thanks

 

If you need brushes, you need something like HCP215 from here: http://xj4ever.com/catalog/d-5-charging.html

One other thing to check, though, is the regulator plug. Did you check that while going through the harness? It's near the TCI module. The contacts for the white wires from the alternator will often corrode and lose connectivity, which can actually melt that plug. Check that it's in good condition, and, if needed, clean up the contacts.

 

Get your brushes from Chacal. XJ4Ever, upper right hand corner.

 

Just a note to thank you all for your suggestions and knowledge. So in just in case any of you were wondering. I thought I had the problem solved when I bought a new stator but that didnt fix the problem a new stator resulted in no difference. I started to worry at this point because the between the new batterry and stator I spent nearly 300 bucks. which for me is a lot. Well I eneded up buying a regulator rectifier for 23 buks and no charging problems since. moral of the story is start with the cheaper parts first. Only problem now is i was tightening the oil galley plug and broke the extremely fragile head and oil went everywhere a word from the guy who learned the hard way do not try to snug up that plug I have now broken 2 of them at 30 buks a pop and they take 2 weeks to get so i oredered 10 days ago hoping to be riding by next weekend. thanks again for all the help.