see if I get this right.'83 xj750 midnight maxim transmission problem

I didn't mean to jump on maxj550 thread. Haven't figured this all out yet. So problem is '83shift in 1st and neutral but won't go up into second. I did as was informed pulled off shift cover. (by the way tipping bike to the right no oil leaks worked thnxs) all springs on, not broke looked through top of drum couldn't see any piece of plastic binding (don't mean that there wasnt) took a screw driver got the drum finally turning just by working it back and forth. it started shifting again. Something was binding it don't know what maybe shifting fork jammed a bit don't know. If it stops shifting again probably sell it if any body is interested. Had engine out once don't know if I want to do that again without a place to work on it (have no garage just a 8 X 10 shed)

 

Suppose to have read " '83 XJ750 Midnight Maxim"

 

Still sounds like the infamous primary chain guide to me.

Gary H.

 

I agree.

Years ago I only had an 8x10 shed to work in and store the bike, and the push-mower. It's not the best workspace, but it will do in a pinch.
If you have trouble shifting again go ahead and drain the oil and pull the shift cover back off. Any broken plastic should be easier to see since it won't have a chance to drop further towards the right side of the engine. If you find any, just remove it and you can keep riding for a while.

In the meantime start figuring out a way to reassemble the engine inside the house. Once you have it out of the frame, clean, and drained of oil it won't make a mess. I have literally reassembled engines in the dining room back when all I had was that little shed to work in.

Continuing to ride with a broken guide will allow the chain to wear on an oil nozzle. That nozzle is; 1. Crucial for lubricating the starter chain, 2. expensive to replace, 3. made of steel, which will grind off and potentially make its way into places where it should not be (most of it will end up stuck to the sump magnet, but there is potential for it to end up in a bearing or two).

 

I do have the haynes manual for the bike it was kind of hard to find but found a new one. But I am at work right now so can't read it. The primary chain guide where is that located at and is that the main chain comes off of the cam going to clutch drum? Keeping in mind this is shaft driven. How much and where can a fellow get one ordered? The problem with these old bikes hard to find parts if I don't know where to look. The cycle shops around here don't work on them any more and yamaha I found has discontinued making some of the parts.

 

Everyone here works on these old bikes, ask questions and ye shall receive answers.

The icon in the upper right hand corner that says XJ4Ever is THE parts source for these old bikes. . . . . you could try e-bay or other internet sources - but you will never get the customer service that comes from Len (XJ4Ever guy).

 

Comes off the crank horizontal to the clutch. The cam chain comes off the cams vertical to the crank.

Gary H.

 

Send chacal (XJ4Ever) a private message (conversation) he can get you the parts you need. I have done the primary chain replacement on two 750's. If you need any help or even a place to work on it just let me know.

 

Almost. The shafties don't really have a primary chain (though we call it that because Yamaha did). What they have is a starter/alternator chain. It runs from the crank to the alternator shaft, which is connected to the starter by an idler gear.

PDH, what this means is that you need to pull the engine and split the cases in order to access the chain and guide. You can very likely just replace the guide. Chain replacement requires a full teardown, but the guide can be replaced without needing to do anything to the top end. You just have to position the crank so there is room between the webbing ahd the case so te guide can be sneaked out and the new one sneaked in.

One very important note; the bolts holding the guide in place are affixed with thread locking compound. The bolt that sits between the main bearing journals tends to snap if not removed with care. Apply heat to soften the thread lock before removing that bolt.

And another: The haynes manual by itself is not sufficient to do this job. Haynes has omissions, as does the factory service manual. You will want to have both on hand, and have a read through of this thread as well: http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj750-engine-removal-and-split-pictures.38545/

And a third: While you are in the engine that far it is reccomended that you inspect the starter clutch for cracks in the housing. If there are cracks the housing should be replaced. IF there are no cracks you should replace the springs and rollers as a preventative measure. The starter clutch will eventually begin slipping and you do not want to open the cases again just for that.

 

Pdh, we have some of the nicest people on the web right here, along with more XJ knowledge than you can shake a stick at! Who needs stinking motorcycle shops? Most won't even touch a bike thats over 10 years old.

Tcoop, that's an amazing offer. Great stuff. That's what makes this site work!

 

Ok if I need to unstuck trans again will pull engine out. So how much of the engine is going to need to be disassembled. Does the top end need to be? Does at rotor need to come off. (Hope not don't have any wheel pullers of any type.) How about the middle gear not to keen on drilling torx unless absoululy needed. [Tcoop email me I live probably 35 mi from you I think. I might take you up on the offer.]