Self Cancelling Turn Signals

My SCTS on my 82 750 Seca do, in fact self cancel after a predetermined distance. Does the system have an inclinometer? Trying to turn the signals off manually is a bit hard- with winter gloves on so I'm also wondering if they have a tendancy to stick. Can the switch be disassembled and cleaned? -Thanks, Rick

 

No inclinometer. Or altimeter, or ambient temperature sensor.

TWO factors: a timer in the unit itself, AND a reedswitch in the speedo providing pulses to the unit relative to the bike's speed.

How it does what it does is magic; the self-cancelling unit itself is "potted," proprietary, and too expensive to try to dissect.

Shut off is based on a timer and/or time-to-distance, IF the bike is rolling. (And the reedswitch is working correctly.)

 

what does it look like?... is it in the headlight bucket?

 

Re: Self Canceling Turn Signals

Nope its in the speedo. 2 wires run from the self cancel unit to the reed switch. If you remove the speedo from the bucket you can see it. Its mounted toward the top of the speedo hsg.

 

Here's a pic.



Look closely at the empty left-hand spot in the cluster, where the speedo will mount. Look at the rectangular recess where the speedo frame goes.

You can see the hole for the input bearing housing and the mounting holes for the instrument.

JUST ABOVE THEM, laying horizontally in the housing, is the reedswitch.

When the speedo is mounted, the reedswitch is positioned near the magnetic drum in the speedo.

Every old Yamaha with self-cancelling signals utilizes this system.

 

The police model utilises that reed switch for the 'digital police meter' also.

 

oooh, digital. With a reedswitch. Hmm... Can't get much more 'analog' than that.

What the bloody 'ell is a "digital Police meter" anyway? Sounds impressive as all get out.

 

Digital police meter... I have to say that I find myself rarely looking at the speedo. Bit like trying to force yourself to read the clock with hands with someone left their digital watch right next to it.

And because I can't help myself, a circuit diagram to start the process of creating a self-cancelling turn signal circuit... when I get the soldering iron out again.

 

Your pulse counter and timer need to be in series. It's an AND function. The signals turn off when enough time AND enough distance (pulses) have passed.

Rick, you do know that pushing straight in on the button will cancel them?

 

Both the timer and counter outputs, that energise the relay to supply the turn signal relay, are tied in together so.

If you travel the right distance then the pulse counter de-energises but the timer circuit will continue to energise and vica versa so it is a time and distance condition.

So if you are going fast! then the timer would have precedence, because the counter would de-energise quickly or if you are going slow the pulse counter would win out, because the timer would count down and de-energise. Either way both conditions have to be met before the relay is de-energised.

I think... I'm scratching my head now

 

Yes, they do cancel when I push in the button, but the button seems 'dirty'
and takes a bit of pressure to push in . That's why I wondered if it would be dismantled and cleaned. Maybe I'll just wait 'til summer and use thinner riding gloves!

 

Ok, I'd assumed the timer and counter interrupted power rather than supplying it (I didn't actually bother to look closely :? )

But you are right - signals cancel at the latter of time or distance.

Should take just a tap. Sounds like it is dirty.

 

The Turn Signal Switch normally has some resistance when you Manually Cancel the Switch.

But, it's nice when the Switch is Clean and Lubed.
Taking apart the Control and getting into the Switch is somewhat of a formidable task.

The Turn Signal Component Parts fit together like a Chinese Puzzle.
Some Contacts are soldered to wires and NEED to be placed in the exact position, sometimes ... Spring-loaded, ... while other parts are refitted.

Before you begin to disassemble the Switch, ... prepare your work space with a towel that will let you see parts dropped.
A "Boundary" ... like an Old Sheet hung-up to prevent a Spring from being lost.

Some small container for Miniature Ball Bearings and Tiny Screws is a Big Plus for keeping things all together.

 

A couple of the bikes down at the Salty Camel garage have had stiff TS buttons when we got them. Open up the control and douche out the switch with out taking the switch apart with WD 40 has freed them up. Then a re-lube with lithium grease from a spray can and they have worked much better

 

There's really nothing to be afraid of, the cool thing about Yamaha switch clusters is that they are made to be able to be taken apart and serviced.

You do have to be careful, there are a lot of small parts and things go together in "layers" BUT-- not much plastic at all, no "one-way" barbs or latches to break. Everything pretty much unscrews.

Notice my "work mat" in the speedo pic. Rick's recommendation is right on, it's a real good way to trap tiny parts that would otherwise run away.

 

Reading this thread now I think in the future cause my self-canceling turn signals do not self cancel. What I may do is make a newer flasher rely using a ATmel AVR. Pretty much build a digital version of it.

Will prolly use a ATiny84 automotive grade microcontroller. Will need 5 inputs and 2 outputs so a total of 8 I/Os. This would prolly fit all within the stock flasher/relay box. Would be a cheap mod because the controller itself is only like 4 bucks. Also this mod would let you use LED turns and still keep self canceling.

 

Some good news here. I gave the signal switch a good spraying with wd-40 and made sure lots got in the button slide area. That immediately freed up the 'press in to cancel' function. I then gave it a good supply of 3-1 oil, enough to let it drip from the bottom and it's working like new again. Thanks for the advise on this matter - Rick