Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1000?

it's my first bike, the guy says he bought it to turn into a bobber but decided to sell it instead. He claims the guy he bought it from owns a bike shop and is the one who last did maintenance on it . . . but it allegedly works.

Does it look like a fair deal at a grand? Thanks a lot

http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcy/2657786396.html

 

The plan is to have my friend drive me over to check it out, and then drive it back a good 65 miles up A1A... like 35 mph the whole way. I just hope it makes it!

 

If it looks good and you can safley ride it home and it needs nothing, then 1000$ is fair. If it needs any work then start deducting from the price.
Don't be fooled just because it might run, bring a friend to help who is familiar with bikes
What condition are the :
Brakes
Tires, how old are they
Battery
Has routine maintenance been done(valve adjustments most imporntant)
Is there any rust in the gas tank?
Any cosmetic issues?
If it needs :
tires-deduct 250
carb work-deduct at least 300
battery-deduct 50
brake work-deduct up to 200
thats just a starter list,It looks to be in good shape and its worth looking at.

 

Thanks much, I wrote down your list of things to check for, now I'm going to google Valve Adjustments.

A1As an easy road up the coast so I doubt I'll have to get past 3rd gear.

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

Checking the compression is an easy test for major issues, if the current owner doesn't mind. A decent test ride - going through the gears and gently winding it up to at least 7k in third is also good way to check for major issues. Be sure and do a pre-ride safety check first (brakes, familiarize yourself with the controls etc.) Neither one will guarantee no problems, but its a start.

It's better not to go too slow on your way home, 40-55 is a better range because these are air-cooled engines.

The bike looks good in the pics. I've seen similar bikes go anywhere from $600-$1600, so $1000 not unreasonable. Always ask for any spare parts, maintenance records, etc.

 

Thanks for the great advice, but I'm pretty sure a compression check is beyond my current skill level. Is it easy if I buy a particular tester thing-a-mabob? Is there a way to judge it without the gauge?

 

I just hope it's as easy to ride as the 250 Suzuki clunker I took the MSF class with, but I'm 5'10" and 200lb so I might be able to flat foot it if I stretch my toes out first

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

Yes it is really easy to do with a tester. We were just discussing this on another thread the link is below. Both Rick and I detailed doing it.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#302546

Yes just riding the bike will tell you a lot about the condition. But experience with different bikes, motors helps a bunch here. Mostly it should idle smoothly, leave the "hole" smoothly, be able to shift through the gears easily (only down to first should "clunk", and mostly only when the bike is cold), and you should be able to slowly accelerate up through the rpm without misfiring, backfiring, or a noticeable drop in power. These bikes, when they are right, run like a scared rabbit! They are very powerful, very quick, and are known to be stable riders.

The height will be approximately the same as the 250. You shouldn't have any trouble. The bigger bike weighs more, but otherwise very similar. Just take your time becoming familiar with the bike before taking off and take the time to figure out where your going to test ride to make sure you know the area.

The mileage is a little high, but if the bikes been well cared for then not a huge concern. You could negotiate using the mileage as a reason for dropping the price to $900.

 

xxx

 

Oh BTW, you don't have to google for the valve adjustment, just do a search on this site . Use "valve adjustment" in the search field.

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

You bring up a point I've been wondering about LVSteve. When I bought my XJ the buyer's guide mentioned the mileage maximum as a factor to consider, but it was talking about the valves and the cylinders not lasting beyond 60k (I'm thinking poor maintenance here).

So my question is this. With proper maintenance and riding how far can they go? Does anyone have stats on this or anecdotal evidence of the max? And what will fail eventually no matter how much maintenance you put in?

 

The is one exception to the airhead rule of low engine life as opposed to water cooled and that is BMW. As you can see on my signature my beemers were both going strong when I let them go. As far as bikes of our type (transverse multi's) they don't seem to last to far into 75K before the rings and valves go. I think it's the excessive amounts of heat generated by this engine design. A good thing to do to extend an engines lifespan is to install an oil cooler. But I don't know of any info regarding the study of these engines lifespans. Inside XJ engines are three parts that no amount of maintenance will help and they are the three chains: oil pump drive, generator drive and the cam chain. Only one of these chains has any manual adjustability. All chains stretch and when they stretch too far bad things can happen, and to make matters worse, the chain tensioners; a nessesary evil.

 

A well maintained air cooled XJ engine can easily go 100K miles, don't be afaraid of 42K on the clock.
Use goog judgement, remember its a 30 year old bike and will require some maintanance on your part to keep it running. Are you up for it?

 

-You don't need to "Google valve adjustemnts" the procedure is right here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

-"The guy I'm buying it from got it from a guy who said he did all the maintenance" is one of the oldest stories in the book. It's also BS.

-If a compression test is beyond your skill level, then I'm sorry to say, the care and feeding of a 30-year old bike is probably beyond your skill level too.

-Take a look at the valve adjustment tutorial I posted the link to. This is a service procedure that HAS TO BE DONE every 5000 miles, and was often ignored. This is not something you want to pay a shop a few hundred dollars to do for you (if you can even find one that will) every 5K. This type of service is the kind of thing you will need to learn to do yourself. If you're not able to, or willing to learn, then don't buy the bike.

-DO NOT BUY THIS BIKE AND ATTEMPT TO RIDE IT HOME. You have NO IDEA of its true mechanical condition, and you're not an experienced rider. If a brake locks up on you, or one of a myriad of other things that could go wrong happen, you could get seriously hurt or worse. Even at 35mph.

-A motorcycle this old IS NOT like an old car. There are going to be a lot of things that will need to be replaced, renewed, refurbished, cleaned, etc., before it is SAFE and reliable. You won't be able to "take it to a shop" for every "problem" as the symptoms of neglect manifest themselves.

I'm not trying to pee in your cornflakes here; I'm just trying to help you understand what you'd be getting into. Unless you're rolling in cash, bikes this old are a DIY proposition. And that goes for ANY bike over about 10~15 years old.

Last but not least, it ain't worth a $Grand. $800 max, but only if everything checked out, starting with a compression test.

 

Gotta go with Fitz here man. old bikes and wrenches are a marriage you have to accept. thats just how it is.
Also the only way Id pay a thousand for it is with compression numbers at 145 on all 4 or better, new tires good with date codes of no more than last year, good strong forks and rear shocks and recent reciepts for several maintenance items, all the key stuff and I doubt he's got it.
Lots of people have lost their mind and think everythingn is worth 2 0r 3 times what it realy is.
If you get thyis bike add 1000.00 to the finished product. once really done right they are solid little machines and very dependabe but most jackals have neglected and abused them.
bottom line, in MY opinion, I'd start at 500.00 and work up from there,
At 500.00 youd end up with 1500.00 in it. just me though

 

If you're careful and frugal and lucky, a proper "recommissioning" can be done for in the $600~$800 range; another $1000 might be a bit steep.

Remember whether it's $600 or $1000 more, that assumes you'll be doing your own LABOR.

 

Just as a reference point, here in n.e. PA I paid $750 for a 1981 XJ650 with 10,250 miles on her - garage kept, clean, little to no rust, current inspection, good tires, etc. No formal maintence records however.

 

I paid $600 for my 650R with 11,000 miles on her, and that was with the carbs professionally done, tires 3 years old, brake lines 2 years old.

The only things I needed to do before it was safe enough to start riding was change the oil, air filter, install modern fuses, and check the rear brakes for delamination.

My winter list will run me about $600 but that's replacing everything that I want to, not because I necessarily need to.

I agree that $1k is too much.

I also know of people who have put over 100,000 on the clock with proper maintenance. So I would disagree that you should shy away from it with only 42K on it, if the motor is sound.

 

yeah, I would never say dont buy it cause of the miles, after all if you really want to you can get 200k out of one it'l just cost a little from time to time.
the miles wouldnt scare me off at all, and if I really wanted it I may even pony up the grand-maybe.
It's just MY opinion that a grand is too high. If it was me Id check compression before I thought too much harder on it then Id start the price game.
but no 42K aint bad

 

200K SKW! I don't think so. Within 200K the engine may have to be rebuilt 2 or 3 times, it's not just pistons and valves, it's those chains I mentioned earlier.

 

yeah like I said--"if you really wanted to it'll just cost a litte from time to time" every part of the bike is repairable. but how long do you think youd have to ride to get that far really?
Still dont mean it cant be done.
that wasnt my point though, my point was the 42K wasnt the big deal in my opinion, it was the price. Maybe another thousand dollars is a little high- (maybe its not) to put the bike where it should/coud be.
But it's gonna cost something and a grand out the gate is a little rich.
I was making the main point of -it aint the mileage its the asking price that I woud be considering if it was ME.
but we have done 2 rebuilds on the shovel no idea about mileage though as it has no gauges nor has it had since 1999

 

Here is a pic of that tensioner.

 

Yeah, I'm becoming more weary of getting it, esp. at $1000... There are two 750s for sale for not much more money, with maintenance receipts, and much less mileage... only I was thinking the 650 would be a lighter more fuel efficient bike... the 750s definitely seem in better condition though.

 

maybe you could mention that to him and see if he'l work with the price? In any case checking compression before you buy is a good idea.
There is nothing in these bikes that's beyond fixing. Mine didnt even run and hadnt for years when I got it. I paid 200.00 for it and 1000.00 plus alot of work later she purrs and passes anything I want to.
better to know what your getting before hand than to find out after the fact

 

I guess the best thing is to bring a local mechanic to give it the thumbs up... if I don't grow a pair and get one of the 750s with fewer miles and maintenance records for not much more ;

 

the 650 just looks so damn nimble compared to the 750

 

not sure if it's because it's red, it just looks beefier like a pitt bull

here's a link to a 750:

http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/mcy/2666810586.html

 

You know, I don't think there's much difference between the two, can't really say, I have ridden the 650 but not the 750. You see, Sun, rake angle, wheel base and other features are shared. The only thing I can think of that might make a difference would be weight, the 750 is a little heavier.

 

love my 650. 57,000+ miles and still runs perfect. Bought it 2 years ago for $750 so far only needed oil changes. I've done the whole check list with it and it needed nothing. (I got lucky and it was well loved by previous owners)


P.S. I don't like the looks of 750s as much as the 650s either

 

I bought my 700 3 yrs ago at 23+k for $ 1350.00.

She's now @ 61+k and running like new.

I've replaced ALL qestionable parts as soon as I can.

Changed the oil every 2k and stayed on top of all the great
advice given by our guru's.

I want to hit 100k if I can!

 

having ridden both a 750 max and 650 Seca Id say I like the 650 Seca much better in real time riding, its a little more nimble, but thats partially due to subte design difference. the 750 has slighty more horsepower IMHO better for the long runs but Ill take my 650 seca every time when Im gonna have to get on the road with the jackals who drive down here.
Either one is better than a bigger V twin though.
If you took all the testing and checking out of the mix and was gonna get one of the 3 you mentioned I say pick the one that "feels" like IT wants YOU.
sit on it, rock it side to side, feel its weight, go over the controls, start it if possible. See if it feels right to you- only you will know that.
remember if the 2 of you like each other there is nothing that cant be fixed.
just do not ride it till you make sure it's safe-please do that with anything you ever get-riding with unknown issues is gambling with your life!

 

Great advice guys, I appreciate it.

I'm leaning towards the 650 with all it's potential hassle, over the 750 that's closer and has had a lot of work already done to it...

 

yeah any old bike is gonna need something. In the end go with your gut.
Just go through your checklist and dont take any short cuts. make it safe and make sure every thing else is up to par and you'll love these bikes.
Get a manual-factory is best. When you get your manual post a thread about it so you can get the down low on any errors (if any) Clymer does have a couple small ones and go to the xj4ever at the top of the page, right corner and start schooling.
Keep the shiny side up bro

 

shiny side up... check!

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

LVSteve (or other enthusiasts) how do you make sure the generator drive chain tensioner is good? Thanks for the pic of where to find it!

 

but I'm a little (a lot) noobish on running a compression check. It says the throttle has to be open all the way, but another website said something about starting the bike... and then one mentioned on some bikes you have to move a valve or something with a stick inside the carburetor...

though for like 10 or 20 bucks more than the tester I could probably pay a mechanic to check the bike out for me.

it looks sweeeet

 

A generator drive chain is bad when you have run the adjusting bolt down to the locknut. When you adjust the tensioner you use 2 different sized wrenches, the big one is for the locknut and it looks like a 13mm wrench and the small one looks like a 10mm. Loosen the locknut first then tighten the small one until you feel resistance, while holding the small 1 tighten the big 1.
All that is required for the comp test is to hold the throttle open, but it would be advisable to ensure that the slides are in the up position as well. If the diaphrams are intact, they shouldn't interfere with the test, but to know you have to have the airbox boots off. We backyard mechanic generally don't trust professional mechs, they are way too greedy. If you have even just a little mechanical experience and the tools, we will help you do most of the simple procedures.

 

no you need to learn to do this.
start by getting a decent tester-Harbour Freight has one for 19.00
1. crank bike and et it run for 5 minutes
2. shut it down and dis-connect TCI thats the little black box on the left side if you are sitting on the bike
pull pug wires off
3. thread in tester, your plug hole is 14mm just a tad more than hand tight is fine dont over tighten
$.while holding the throttle wide open hit the start button (with the key and kil switch on like you was gonna start and run the bike) let it spin over a few times. do it until the neede on the gauge stops moving up.
6. record your reading

Do this for all 4 holes, after you remove the tester put the pug back in so that nothing gets in the hole
Also use compressed air to get rid of trash and dirt before removing anything, you dont want trash in the hole!
If you have a battery charger hook it up while you test, a weak battery will give fase results.
after doing this repeat the process with one teaspoon of oil right down the plug hole, this is called "wet" test
record your numbers for each hole dry and wet then post youyr results.
PM me for any questions and Ill give you my phone number and walk you through it.
you need to get to KNOW your bike. I got alot of help and I like to pay it forward.

 

SKW, if the kill switch is off then why disconnect the TCI?

 

the kill swith has to be ON or the motor wont spin when you hit the button. I thought thats what I said if not i mis-typed.
you need to un plug the TCI becuase it sends power to the coils and you do not want it to fire during a compression test. there are a coupe of other reasons why you NEED to disconnect it but that one is enough.
so key ON--- kill switch ON throttle wide open.
best to have a charger handy as well.
just looked maybe I didnt phrase it clear as I thought, doesnt help the "L" key is screwy I guess

 

Please accept my apology, I thought the starter would turn with the kill switch off, then by all means disconnect the TCI.

 

It aint no thang bro. dont sweat it this is a band of brotherhood around here
we need to check behind one another so we dont hurt our beloved xj's.

 

I think $1,000.00 for those 42-Thousand miles is over-priced.

It would have to be exceptionally "Clean"
PASS a Compression Test with ALL-4 showing 130 psi + above.
Documented maintenance history.

If it STARTS right-up.
RUNS pretty darn well.
IDLES
Handles going through the GEARS under LOAD.
Does not PULL or VIBRATE
BRAKES well.

I think $750 - $800 is a FAIR Price; because Blue Book for Excellent Condition -- 100% Road-ready = $920.oo TOP BOOK.

$920. ~ Top Book means you don't even need air in the tires. Good to PASS Inspection and be Issued Tags.

 

why is it when some one wants a price to sell a xj their rare, almost collector bikes who's value is starting to climb but to buy one it has to pass a battery of tests be pristine and it's still just a old jap bike ?

 

The 900's are rare.
The rest of the XJ's are like Penney's.
People leave them out hoping somebody will take them, ... or give them away.
Clean bikes should bring more dough. Most do.
But, owners attach value to sentiment.
Sentimental Value isn't passed-along to the buyer; so it shouldn't get added to the selling price.
We all know this and get a laugh when we see someone asking gold and jewels when selling anything that is dear to them.
Until it's our turn to sell it.
Then, the price goes up because you add sentiment.

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

Except that you never ever mess with the nut that's circled in the pic, and the thing ABOVE it is the CAMCHAIN tensioner which is what (I think) the (incorrect) adjustment procedure was given for.

The "generator drive" chain DOES NOT GET "adjusted" it's a fixed bridge-like piece.

The locknut and washer in the posted photo are the lower rear mounting point for the rear camchain guide and DO NOT REQUIRE ADJUSTING ONCE THE MOTOR HAS BEEN ASSEMBLED.

The bike in the pic has an automatic camchain tensioner; I believe you will find that the 650 has a MANUAL camchain tensioner, which does have an adjustment procedure. Don't worry about that until after (IF) you've bought the bike, it's not going to be critical for a compression test.

Last but not least: THERE IS NO WAY TO TELL IF THE PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER IS ANY GOOD OR NOT without splitting the cases and looking; or when it starts to break up (then you know it isn't any good.)

 

Just to be sure I was perfectly clear:

DO NOT MESS WITH THAT NUT/BOLT.

It's not a tensioner; as pointed out above, it's the lower mount for the rear camchain guide. It's set once when the motor is assembled. It's not a "service adjustment."

 

Re: Should I buy this '82 Maxim 650 with 42,000 miles for $1

Ok, so here's my last question before I go check out the 650 tomorrow

I'm bringing a mechanic to do a compression check for me since I don't have confidence doing it myself the first time out... BUT,

:?: I'm thinking a 30 yr old bike with 42k miles on the clock is likely to have compression problems just because it's so old and has had several owners and no current maintenance records :?:

does that sound relatively true?

 

Mileage really has no bearing on compression numbers, it's how the bike was taken care of. If the bike has been sitting for ten years with dry cylinders, yes it will most likely have low compression numbers, but that's not always a bad thing.

If the bike has been ridden hard and is still running with the same oil Yamaha put in it in 1982, ring scoring and other things could give the motor low numbers.

If the bike has had the oil changed twice a year, and other maintenance was done, but it has a bad ring, the numbers will be low.

Really what you are looking for is numbers above 120 per cylinder and all cylinders within about 15psi from highest to lowest. These numbers indicate a healthy(er) motor with not too much work involved in getting her right.

If you have a cylinder that tests at 70, then a wet test brings the numbers up to say 110, that indicates a ring issue.

If a cylinder tests at a low number and doesn't go up on the wet test, that indicates major motor work to be done.

If a dry then a wet test results in a cylinder below 70 I'd probably pass on it.

If you test and your numbers from high to low are, say, 130-142, it indicates a strong motor with just valves, carbs, and the like to get it top notch.

 

If a cylinder tests low and doesn't go up on the wet test, it can also be as simple as a valve that's way out of spec, too. Or even just not fully closing because of carbon and crud stuck on the seat.

Specs for the 650 are 128 minimum, 156 "standard" and 171 maximum. As above, variation between them should not exceed 10%.

Be sure to unplug the TCI unit for the test; on the 650 Max it's located on the left side behind the sidecover.