should you see gas here... Ever???

when carbs are removed should you Ever see gas sitting in the bottom of the intake boots? After all this work I think rust in the gas T inlet has been the problem. Now I'm about to find out if that would affect fuel height.

Nope, it didn't. had the fuel heights correct, ripped the Hitachi's down for a acid bath as a last resort, just got them back together, fuel height is still good for all 4. puttem on the bike, still 'almost' stalls with throttle input and Still tiny bit of gas in the each boot after I removed them.

Could I have some wrong parts??? I just set the carbs up level with the gas tank above, petcock on Prime, bowls full, idle screw all the way in, don't see any leaks. Guess I'm gonna leave it overnight, But I've Done This Before :evil: side note, venturi's only open approximately 1mm w/ throttle all the way in, whatever.

if you you look at 90% of threads I started they're all about this Stupid problem. carb rebuild kits bought from Len except for the fuel valve in the bowl cause they looked brand new - despite all the other clogs I've found. I bought the bike not running and outa the thirtysomething time's ive been through these carbs the bike ran good maybe twice, and then stopped the next day. Please Please Please just blurt out things here, Please.

 

btw, it looks like i have fine thread on the enrichment circuits so i'm starting with 3.5 out. and my bench sync'n technique, is light. I hold the rack up to my florescent light and meticulously adjust them. I used to do the 'paperclip'method but I found this way to be more accurate w/ a steady hand and a good eye. basically I was checking the paperclip method witht light and fine tuning it w/ the light

 

Well that blows my thought out. I was thinking a Bench sync would be in order.
I see a little bit of gas in my carb 1 intake boot sometimes. Only when its been on its sidestand though
-Chris

 

crap crap crap, but thanks. I'm thinking basics, maybe I should come out further on the enrichment? throttle input causing a almost stall sounds like flodding right? gas in intake boots looks like flooding right? hang on, plug inspection says... very very super fine black sut, but dry, but that's an hour after carbs been out, maybe they had time to dry, well, I'll leave the fuel pressure on the valves and check for leaks tmrw after work, if none, I guess I'll put them back in and start w/ 4.5 out. That's Right, I'm goin 1 whole more!

 

do the choke enrichment plungers go all the way down, ALL the way
check the float height with a clear tube while the carbs are on
the low speed mixture screw goes in for leaner out for richer
mine all seem to like 3 1/4 turns out

 

well it's a fresh build so the plungers have to be all the way down, not to mention when I put all the enrichment linkage stuff back on everything was symetrically nice, it works well. fresh build meaning carb bodies had an acid bath and I cleaned the plungers very very well. what exactly do you mean check the carbs while the screw is on low speed mixture? I checked them only at 3.5. Keep asking me questions lol. at this point i dont care if im the dumbest guy w/ a wrench, i just wanna get this thing!!! I always think back to that thread titles 'I thought I was a good mechanic until...'

 

When raw Fuel accumulates in the Intake Manifolds you have to do some checking to see why.

The Gasoline in the Tank is winding-up in the Manifolds.
Does the Petcock leak-by?
Was the Petcock Lever on Prime too long?

Did the Carbs overflow?
Is there Gas in your Oil?
Did you crank the Engine over quite a lot without it starting?

You can do a Qiuck and Dirty Mod and stick a Briggs & Stratton Plastic Fuel Shut-off Valve just beyond the Petcock output and make sure the Fuel prevented from filling the Bowls.

But, you have to do the "Due diligence" and install a Set of Floats that are going to close-off letting Gas by when the Bowl is at the right height, sooner of later ... sooner, ... to have thing be right.

 

Thanks Rick 0, I checked this morning and the needle valves did not let any fuel by while the petcock was on prime overnight. The thing is, I put the rack on as soon as it was built, started it for 2 mins, noticed the same problem, then removed them & I'm back here, no where.
Is there someone out there with a good rack I can use for a test? For money of course. Or maybe someone could look mine over? Thanks

 

OK!
Two things
One! the plungers may be rebuilt but I had a prob one night when I attached the enrichment cable and i didnt give it enough slack and it held up all my plungers by the most miniscule amount. Causing a stall like start. Adjusted the cable, and good to go.
Two! Youre idle speed adjustment screw. The big one inbetween the carbs. Try bumpin it up a little by a few turns if the cable isnt the problem. If she starts, let her warm up and she'll idle high, back it off and prepare to bottle sync while she's warm.
We'll figure it out Always do
-Chris

 

Ok hehe, tell ya what, when the bikes warm enuff to run w/out the enrichment open I'm going to loosen up the cable hold screw to be sure they completely drop. But the way I normally adjust it is - close the lever on the bars, pull up on the cabe till the fingers almost touch the plungers, tighten up the cable hold, then push down on the plunger fingers to be sure they move down Without the plungers going down with them.

Idle screw, is it normal that when my idle screw is turned completely in the venturi's only open 1mm?

My sync bottles are sittin there & ready!

 

Sounds like one hell of a nightmare. Your welcome to bring that badboy down here and use my carbs as a momentary donor anthony.

 

Wow Wes thnx man. I'm going to give this 1 more week of solid work at nights and next weekend & if all fails I'm gonna have to take you up on that offer. As frustrated as I am it would be a real treat to get this on my own so let's keep this thing going ya'll!

Tonight I need to get new airbox boots cause the gas coming out the carbs made the rubber rock solid

 

That would def help! Specially if they're the stock ones. My bike ran sooo much better with the plumbquik boots

 

But if mine are leaking, that wouldn't create a rich symptom would it? Or am I reading into this wrong?

Seperately, my manifold boots look ok & I really can't afford a new pair just 'to see'

 

Alrighty then, after replacing two airbox boots I was able to give throttle input and the RPMs actually went up. Starting at 3.5 out the 3 hole wouldn't fire unless it was above 2500 RPM. It seemed to have fired somewhere between 2 & 2.5 so maybe I should start at 2.5 on all, all the plugs were pitch black so maybe.

I read on a thread somewhere that if I have fine thread, start at 3.5 but we'll see. Unfortuneately I had to stop early last night and won't be able to pick it bak up for a few days.

 

+ 1 Rick

I think your problem is, that you left it on Prime. Only use Prime for a minute if your carbs are empty, then back to "ON". On Prime, you have gas going to the carbs at all times. Check your oil. There must be gas in there too.
To shut off your gas, leave it on "ON ".

 

AS Galamb said.. "To shut off your gas, leave it on "ON " Exactly... coz that position is a complete blank/dead end so far as fuel flowing it's got nothing to do with it....th diaphragm does all the work for ON and OFF. So if you have fuel getting through without th engine running in th ON position, it's th diaphragm/seal not working.

 

Agreed, question;

When your adjusting the air screw, the tank is on a shelf next to the bike right? I have a fuel line long enough, but do I need a vacume line long enough too? I have extra boots for the vacume nipple for this step. Same goes for the bottle sync, petcock must be on prime right?

Btw, the bike starts at the first blip of the starter switch : )

 

You can run it on PRI to adjust the carbs. Just be sure to plug the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

 

Thanks & sorry to ask this one but I just have to, I think the answer is yes. Is the 1 ft air gap in my fuel tube ok? the upper part of the tube connecting to the petcock, and it's solid fuel to carb inlet

 

Finally found a real problem we can go on. As mentioned earlier, the carbs didn't leak while on the bench with gas tank above it & petcock on prime overnight. The carbs were level.

Now that the rack is on the bike, & the bike is on the sidestand, they leak, right onto the motor.

The gas tank is diconnected, there was a 3 foot tube connected from the carb fuel inlet almost full of fuell strapped to a shelf above it and the tube slowly emptied onto the engine case via the carb bore/venturi area.

Could it be the PO put the wrong floats or needles or something? My fuel level is set to 1mm below the bowl screw mating surface
Thanks

 

I don't have my manual with me but I think the correct level is 3mm +/- 1mm. So if you have them set for 1mm below the mating surface, you are most definately over filling the bowls...

 

Did you check the action of the fuel needles? Sounds like they might be sticking and letting fuel get through when the bike is on prime.

Simply leaving the bike on prime should not cause leaks, as the needles would close-off the fuel flowing out of the carbs into the boots.