Signals not flashing; horn not working when stopped

My turn signals don't flash and my horns don't work when I'm stopped at the lights. I'm trying to do my motorcycle exam and last time, he did not 'approve' of this and I'm trying to fix this before going for my exam.

Now I noticed that it'll flash and the horn will work after 1500 RPM. Do I simply have to change the signal relay - but the horn not working indicates that it might not be isolated to signals only? Perhaps the regulator/rectifier? I talked to my motorcycle shop and they said that the signals should blink.

The only thing I changed was upgraded the front headlight so I'm wondering if there's too much voltage draw.

Simiar thread: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/turn-signal-problems.73794/#post-481705

 

What is the battery voltage at ~2k RPM? Should be about 14.5 volts.

It's possible that the replacement headlight draws too many amps. There's not many "free" amps on these bikes to begin with. Did the horn and signals work before?

 

Sounds like a low-voltage situation at idle. You can bump the idle speed up to 1500 RPM to get you through the test. The likely source of the undervolt problem is worn alternator brushes. Pull the alternator cover (big round one directly under the carbs on the left side of the engine. three screws), and look at the brush length. There is a wear indicator n the brushes You should also clean the copper traces on the alternator rotor with a hard pencil eraser.

It could also be that the new headlight is drawing too much current as Jayrdoh suggested.

 

after you fix the voltage problem
you may want to consider changing your tail lights to led bulbs as well as the plate bulb, always on and will save you some amps.
what kind of head light did you change to and from?

I got my plate light bulb from superbright part number 67-W15:Natural White $6.95
went to wall mart for the tail/brake light

 

I've cleaned and confirmed brushes are still good on alternator. i've also cleaned the copper traces on the alternator rotor with a hard pencil eraser.

I upgraded to a 'Candlepower Round Headlight' described as '7LAMP w/h4 quartz bulb'.

I'm assuming there's no harm in riding around with 1500RPM idle while I'm doing the test. That's a good idea.

 

Are any modifications required to use LED plate and tail light bulbs? I've read about people having trouble with getting LED's to work and needing to use resistors and such....or is that only with other lights on the bike?

 

LED's are direct swap for brake/tail, plate, and some indicator lights. You can purchase replacement LED bulb assemblies that will install just like an incandescent bulb.

Resistors are needed in turn signal applications for some bikes (XJ's yes) as the flasher needs the correct amperage "load" to function properly.

 

There are other ways to use LED signal lamps than to resort to load resistors (which defeat the point of reducing amperage draw).

 

I use a H4 bulb it is not a problem
you can do the test with out riding around
clean your grounds at battery motor frame and coils
this link discribes what you will be testing for it is near the bottom of the page
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

 

I cleaned the copper connectors on the signal relay and it's a no go. the funny thing is, one of the tests that I do is when I just turn the bike ON, w/o starting the engine (therefore, no headlights, no tach/speedometer lights), neither the horn works (it slightly squeeks) or the lights blink.

there was once a time where it would work. Perhaps the voltage on the battery is not high enough. I've had my batteries tested by a motorcycle shop and they said it was fine (for starting the motor).

*** Do you think changing the REGULATOR would help? *** The thing is the REGULATOR changes AC to DC, but when the motorcycle is not started, it's all DC going to the signals and horns. I'm thinking that the initial voltage of the battery needs to be higher.

 

A shop that does not know how to test a voltage regulator, but advises trying to change it out for a new one, is a shop to be avoided.

Besides, regulators typically fail in a way that causes the output voltage to be too high.

Test your alternator coils (I'm assuming the shop didn't)

Scroll down to the last post: http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/

There are other tests for the regulator, but I don't have them handy. The main thing to look for is proper outout voltage at the given RPM.

 

Thank you K-moe on the advice on regular and voltage being too high! Mine is fine. NOw I don't have to look at it. Saved me a lot of $$.

Now do you think changing my battery would help this? my battery is 12.8V at rest.... but it seems like my lights/horn need 14.4volts or more to start working, i.e. after 2000+ rpm. I've cleaned

 

Here's an idea- use some test leads and connect the horn directly to a battery. Does it work? That will save a lot of wondering.

 

I suspect that you have voltage drop due to corrosion, or a short somewhere, otherwise everything would be working at idle.

 

is this your headlight?

CandlePower 702212 H4 Headlamps
12Volt - 7in. Round12V quartz halogen lights manufactured by Candlepower come complete with H-4 P43T 60/55W bulbs
Twice the illumination of standard sealed beam
DOT compliant

http://www.ebay.com/itm/702212-CAND...ash=item25ba2fc14a:g:8lYAAOSwJMhXDpQ1&vxp=mtr

haynes book spec you have a 81 650 max



candlepower bulb is pulling 1 (14 volt) to 1.25 (12 volt)more amps on your low beam

 

On my Maxim, the ground for the entire wiring harness is a ring terminal that uses the bolt for the ignition coils to connect to ground. When I first put my bike back together, this connection was not good and nothing worked properly. If you have the same setup, I would pop the tank off and check this.

 

Thanks for tip!.... err... do you have any diagram. Am I just looking to see if a ring terminal is attached to the ignition coils and perhaps clean it up a bit...

 

No diagram but I do have a grainy picture from tear down that shows it.

 

I got a Haynes manual and couldn't find a 'resistance' test for my signal relay. I checked the guide (http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/) but no such tests.

Is there any kind of resistance test I can do? Now, the signal only blinks after 2500RPM. But the horn is working after 1300RPM.

 

disconnect your headlight and see if every thing starts working.