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SLKids Pod Attempt, XS1100

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by SLKid, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Ok so im rebuilding this XS1100, havin trouble gettin it to Idle, and ride. New Cables on the way so that'll help with the friction zone issue. Need to Re-bench Sync and Colortune, and possibly clean out the carbs one more time. Thinking with pods I need to install New Spark Plugs. Currnently has BP6ES, Im thinking it needs racing plugs to work with the POD system. BPR6ES or BPR7ES to run hot.
    But we'll see. I'll update with findings.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Is that Street Legal ??
     
  3. Zookie400

    Zookie400 Active Member

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    i would leave the plug if its good now, pods shouldnt be raising BTUs in the combustion chamber.

    your design looks good, but tight! can you slip it in there easy or is it as tight as it looks?
     
  4. cutlass79500

    cutlass79500 Well-Known Member

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    UM the r in the plug number isn't racing its resister so you wont have radio noise
     
  5. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    There is probably to much restriction in that U-bend with that little inlet hole where you have the filter at. Have you tried the stock airbox to see how it runs? Start with that then try pods on each carb.
     
  6. dwcopple

    dwcopple Active Member

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    WOw! You really necked it down there bud. might wanna hole saw out that filter inlet to let it gulp some more air!!!
     
  7. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Mlew,
    Didnt come with the airbox sadly, came with 3 engines, 3 carbs, 2 bikes, but no airbox. Just one set of Pods. So I figured, Why not?

    Cutlass,
    Didnt know that! Someone at advance told me that years ago and well, hell i believed it.

    Zookie and DW,
    Easy to get in and out, just enough room for the battery. Now, i DO have the Idle Screw in a lot, maybe youre right and I need to open it up more. I'll start by cutting down the piece that screws in the U Joint a little to open up the inside of the POD. If that doesnt help I probably will cut into the joint and use that grey rubber piece to slide in there.
    After i get my new cables and I REALLY should valve check too.
    Also havent compression checked cause of lack of Compression Tester. But she sounds good and even, when the Idle is right.
    Guess thats why they call em projects
    -Chris
     
  8. waldo

    waldo Member

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  9. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Thanks waldo that was actually really helpful!! Learned a lot from that page.

    I've been thinking about restriction and I think yall may be right. I'm gonna do 2 things today. First, cut open the hole with my dremel (No hole saw) and see if I can just slip the pod right in. If not? I'll buy 4 more of those couplings and put a pod on each like velocity stacks. We'll see!
    -Chris
     
  10. schooter

    schooter Active Member

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    ngk racing plugs come in a red box. and if it has a "y" in the number that means the diode has t points to arc
     
  11. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Rubber couplings on each, 4 carbs 4 Pods, seemed to help the air flow better. Starts up in a flash. But it backfires and sounds like its runnin real lean. Soooo gonna do valves and then Ima compare jets and see if I can up jet sizes by just a smidge and then sync and colortune.
    Sounds good! Shifts through gears.
    Will update on POD situation the more I work on it.

    Thanks schoot! Good to hear youre still around
    -Chris
     
  12. stevestrom

    stevestrom Member

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    YOur pod set up looks very familiar to what I am running right now
     
  13. stevestrom

    stevestrom Member

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    I haven't put many miles on this set up and the carbs are currently only bench sync'ed but it seems to be running really well. It pulls like a beast (granted I have never ridden this bike without all the changes). Mines an '82 XJ1100. I was told that this set up would not work but it seems to be so far. Once I put more miles on I'll be better able to tell.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  14. schooter

    schooter Active Member

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    those rear sets.... how?
     
  15. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Cool! Whered you get those couplings???
     
  16. stevestrom

    stevestrom Member

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    They are just cobbled together out of the stock shifter (cut), some cheapy pegs, another shifter off who-knows-what, some 1/4" steel and two ball sockets. I don't think I spent more than $30 on them, tops.

    I've had a few PM's about the intake. Again, I must stress, I have not tested much! No real measurements here everything was pretty much eye-ball'd.

    Anyway they are just p-traps and a coupler of somesort I found at Home Depot. Cut a hole in the P-trap, ground off the material that I did not need on the coupler (in order to open it up as much as possible), glued them together, bondo'ed, and painted. The rubber boots are cut from an old radiator hose that I found. Just happened to be the right diameter.

    WOW! I was just reading over this - I am a cheap bugger! My wife was right!!
     

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