spark plugs seized

All 4 spark plugs are seized in the head of my 82 seca 650.The bike sat outside for 2 to 3 years uncoveredas a parts bike. I let wd40 and other penitateing oils soak in and can't get them to move. Iwas going to snap the thread off clean out the holes then put helacoil {not shure of spelling}in and hope thay whould last. Does any one have a better idea?

 

Don't do that!

Use some IMPACT!

A ~~> Sudden <~~ application of force.

Put your sparkplug socket on the end of an extension that will give you some room to attach your Long Breaker Handle ...

Apply steady force on the Breaker handle ... and have someone strike the Breaker Handle with a ...

WOODEN HAMMER HANDLE or mallet or baseball bat

The sudden inpact will remove the spark plug.

 

Iv tryed that and thay didn't move thay are real in there good.

 

Keep at them... Keep putting WD40 on them, get as much leverage as you can and get a friend to apply the hits.

 

Rent an Electric Powered Impact Tool if you don't have access to air and a compressed air impact gun.

For the record ...

Breaking them off and stripping them out would NOT be on my list; at least NOT intentionally!

 

You should all know my favorite answer by now:

HEAT.

I'd go get myself a cheap sparkplug socket. Pull the foam and rubber out so it doesn't smoke. Put the breaker bar on and have that hammer handle handy. Get some heat on the head around the plug - then smack the breaker bar with the wood handle.

I'd worry that using an impact wrench would strip the threads.

 

Ummm...just a thought here...

You might want to clean off any flammable liquids (like the WD40 and the penetrating oil) before applying any sort of open flame.

And have a fire extinguisher handy. 8O

 

Excellent point.

- remove fuel tank
- drain carbs
- lots of ventilation

- fire extinguisher handy

 

The concern that most techs have about doing a thread repair on a spark plug hole while the head is still on the engine is metal chip damage. Any chips that remain in the cylinder after the hole has been drilled and tapped for the insert can easily cause cylinder wall or other internal engine damage. The key is to control the chips before they have a chance to get into places where they don't belong.

You've probably heard of coating the drill and tap threads with grease to capture the chips as you work. Alternately, you may wish to fill the cylinder with shaving cream before beginning the work. The shaving cream places the chips in suspension. After the work is completed, turning the engine over slowly should force the cream and chips out through the spark plug hole. Clean the area thoroughly before continuing.

A shop vac can also be used in reverse for chip control. Duct-tape the exhaust end of your shop vac to the tailpipe, then crank the engine over until the affected exhaust valve is open. Turn on the shop vac, then begin your drilling procedures. The shop vac s exhaust should propel the chips out of the cylinder as you work. Wear eye protection to shield your eyes from stray chips.

A special drill bit in the Lisle spark plug hole repair kit (No. 65900) cuts only on the sides, so it can't damage the piston if it happens to contact it during drilling. The kit includes a tap with a stop, also to prevent the tap from extending too far into the cylinder. A special vacuum adapter removes chips after drilling and tapping are complete. Lisle also recommends a careful inspection with a borescope, to ensure that all debris has been removed. The last step is to install the steel insert with a special tool until the insert bottoms. A swedging tool seats the insert. The steel insert holds the plug in original alignment.

Hopefully, you won't need the drills!

 

One other thing to mention is that if you are going to drill your spark plug thread out because you stripped the threads PLEASE and I do say PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE VALVE IS CLOSED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if not then you will be pulling the head and replacing that valve!! so while you are drilling out the spark plug hole, make sure by pulling the valve cover off that either valve is not depressed. OOPS sorry been there done that and I have the pics or T-shirt to prove that YUP I was STOOPID!!!!

 

-and remove the cylinder head. You'll need to anyway, as it's very unlikely that you'll get all four plugs removed without roaching a plug hole or three. No, chasing the threads with a plug-tap is not a solution.

After you have the head off, apply more penetrating oil on the spark plugs' inner threads and let it sit for a day or two.

Re-mount the head temporarily to hold it (unless you've got a better way) and have at it. Use a breaker bar with a 6-point sparkplug socket, not a twelve-point deep socket. A sharp crack to break it loose will do more good than a steady pull.

Expect mixed results. :cry:

 

Any thoughts on using PB-Blaster and a few hours? I'm inclined to believe your steel bodied plugs have corroded into the aluminum body of the head. Impact would possibly strip the threads out so I would use the least distructive options first.
Soak
Heat
Impact
In that order.
Any other suggestions to add?

 

Do not allow frustrations to cause you to do permanent damage to the head.
A situation like this would try the patience of a Saint!
Don't do anything that will fracture the crown of the combustion chambers around those plugs.

Apply a 1/2" Drive, 6-Point Spark Plug or deep socket on the Number 1 Plug with a 1/2" Drive 6-inch extension.
Cut 2-inch strips of Terry Cloth and "Stuff" the cavity all around the socket and into the cooling fins around the spark plug.
Stuff the cavity to height just above where the extension fits the socket.
Fire-up the hot-plate and boil some water.
Soak the Terry Cloth in the cavity with boiling water.
Apply boiling water if the cavity leaks.
Apply heat to the extension to keep the water hot if it does not leak.
Keep it boiling hot for 10-minutes.

Try a very firm, hard, sudden-impact ... on the handle of the 1/2" Drive Breaker Bar to which has torque already applied to the handle ... such that the impact will not be absorbed and will be applied to the spark plug when the Breaker Bar is stuck.

Observe all cautions for scalding, burns, fire and eye hazard.

Get 'em out.

 

I'm going to try to get the plugs out tonight.With all this info i should be able to get them out eather way I will let all of you know.

 

Oh ya one more thing how can I save this page to print it as I whant to keep a book {for my self not to do any thing else with}as all the tip can help me in the future.

 

I think the boiling water idea is a very good one.

 

You shoudl just be able to go to "File" then "Print" in your browser's menu. Most of them have Ctrl-P set up as a keyboard shortcut as well.

 

Hi There, Try this product, Plus Gas, it's one of the best penetrating oils I have ever used. You maybe able to buy this at an Industrial Supply store. Used this stuff on seized turbocharger exhaust bolts and it works great.

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/det ... duct=30700

Regards,
Chris

 

I agree with Robert, try some P'blaster or other good PENETRATING oil 1st. (WD40 sucks as a penetrating oil). Soak them good (several times) and let it sit for 24 hours.

 

FluidFilm is one of the best penetrating oils I've ever used, It's expensive, but it works wonders

 

All this considered advice.. for someone who was lazy enough to let the bike sit out in the weather behind the trailer for YEARS. Sloth has a price.
Most ANY decent shop will extract the plugs and insert thread renewal inserts if needed.. but that would be way too easy, wouldn't it

 

Easy to have done maybe not as easy to pay for. Seafoam has a penetrating spray called Deep Creep. May be useful also. I would apply heat ust as Micarl suggested and follow with the penetrating oil. Repeat several times until they break loose.

 

If one or two were stubborn enough to require penetrating oils and impact ... I thank all the Lucky Stars ... Thread Chase all the holes and lather-up some new plugs and stick 'em in there.

All this fuss needed to get those damn plugs out of there probably means this story ain't going to have a happy ending if we don't "Call-it" before the head becomes fractured and requires replacement!

This is where I Officially recommend Professional Intervention.

I'm recommending taking the Head off and turning the job over to a Machine Shop.

Call or visit a Machine Shop and discuss this matter with a Professional Machinist.

You'd do well to visit your Community Technical High School or related Technical Teaching School's in your area and discuss the situation with the Department Head of Machine Shop's there.

You just might run into a "Biker" who understands your plight and is able to "Save the day."

 

Had that happen when a head gasket went out on a honda civic I had bought that overheated. The plug snapped and left only the threads. Good thing I was already removing the head or I would have been real pissed. Anyway the point of telling you that is I did a lot of research on removing those threads. Some advice I found was to heat the plug threads and try to drip wax into the threads. People said it would suck wax into the threads and lube them. I never got it to work but it could be worth a try if you're using the heat anyway. I ended up taking the head to a machine shop and they couldn't get it out either.. they drilled and put in a helicoil (sp?) has worked great for 10,000 plus miles so far. Good luck!

 

Good news and bad.good is I got 3 plugs out with some work like Rick said .Bad news is 1 snaped all the threads in the head.I tryed heat,P B blaster, easy out {reverse thread tap for just this thing} and beating the hell out of it to loosen it up but not hard enough to damage the head. I'm don't know what to do now. I found a guy that does it for 125 dollars with the head on.He puts a scope in after to look for filings in the head when he's done, is this my only hope.

 

You're in Foo-Bar Mode, now!

I recommended that you not try navigating the flat-bottomed boat up Schlitz Creek.
Now, you're up-the-creek with no paddle.

If you have somebody that can throw you a life-line and get you out of the predicament ... do it!

 

$125 for a guarantee of a chip free hole is a very good thing. Does he come to the bike? If so, the price is great. If not, beat him down to $100 and a batch of home-baked chocolate chip cookies. This is still cheaper than finding out you scored up your cylinder and need to replace/rebuild your motor.

 

Yes he comes to any car, bike or head in need.

 

You have my blessing ...

Get it done. Make sure he evaluates the other holes while he's there!