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Spin on Oil Filter "how to"

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by skeeter, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    some time this week, i'm finally going to install the spin on oil filter adapter that i ordered from chacal last summer. (don't ask)

    i searched here and couldn't find a "how to" with pics. so . . .

    let me know if you'd like to see one and i'll take pics and post a "how to" here . . . otherwise i'll keep the camera safely away from the oily mess.
     
  2. davidsymons53

    davidsymons53 New Member

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    Thanks for your offer. I would like to see the "how to and pics".

    David
     
  3. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    I've got one here I've had longer than that.

    You could try this file instead. It's the older style; instead of the notched threaded stud and the little wrench adapter, he used a jam nut in addition to the nut that holds the plate on.

    One of these days I'll have to get around to updating that file with the newer version of the kit.

    edit: the file has indeed been updated and can be found at xj4ever.com
     
  4. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    well shoot - here i done took a bunch of pictures for nothin. that link does a way better job showing how to do it than i did. but for anyone so inclined, i didn't notice this post until i uploaded a bunch of pictures to my gallery - so, if anyone's interested, there's a bunch of related pics in my gallery.
     
  5. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    well, ok, since i went through all the trouble to upload the pics, here's the walk thru:

    step 1: notice your bike is leaking oil from the oil filter housing and over-tighten the bolt hoping this will stop the leak.

    step 2: learn later that you should never over-tighten this bolt and the leak is due to re-using o-rings.

    step 3: badly mangle the overtightened bolt at your next oil change - use a dremel tool to cut the bolt head down to 7/16 and re-install with new o-rings to the correct torque specifications and vow to get a spin-on oil filter adapter kit for your next oil change.

    step 4: keep spin on adapter kit on shelf until next oil change.

    step 5: clean carbs and diagnose some electrical gremlins - so bike is running well enough to justify installing new parts that you might be better off trying to sell to someone with a properly functioning motorcycle.

    step 6: inspect parts and instructions -
    [​IMG]

    step 7: inspect existing oil filter housing -
    [​IMG]

    step 8: take the bike for a ride, warm it up and then drain oil - have a beer to give the oil adequate time to drain.

    step 8.5: spend about an hour trying to get the oil filter housing off. have another beer to celebrate this accomplishment.

    note: the instructions call for removing the bolt (33mm, i think) mine came out while removing the housing - others may not be so "lucky"

    here is a shot of the oil filter housing removed:
    [​IMG]

    step 9: wonder if any of the "internals" need to be removed, test fit the housing plate and have a beer while you decide if you are ready to install

    step 10: prep your new oil filter bolt - the first 4 or 5 threads are covered with a light coating of semi-permanent loctite and about another inch of the bolt/screw is coated with a light coating of anti-seize compound. also pictured is the install tool and the 14mm socket to be used to install the bolt. there are notches cut into one side of the bolt, this allows the install tool to be used to turn the bolt to the correct torque.

    [​IMG]

    here is another shot showing the bolt and install tool "in action"

    [​IMG]

    step 11: prep the plate by coating the o-ring with oil (or silicone grease) and making sure it is seated completely in the groove on the "engine side" of the plate. (the plate is stamped "engine side" and "filter side")

    [​IMG]

    step 12: install the plate and using a light coating of loctite, torque down the thin nut to hold in in place. i used the large, thin walled socket i ordered with the kit from chacal.

    [​IMG]

    step 12.5 : have a beer and admire your work. congratulate yourself for remembering you still need to install the drain plug . . .

    step 13: install the filter - remember to first coat the filter gasket with fresh motor oil and don't over tighten. it is recommended to fill the filter with as much oil as possible before installing - i opted not to.

    [​IMG]

    i was pretty excited to use the "nut" on the end of the filter to tighten it down til i realized i don't have the right size wrench or socket. oh well.

    step 14: install the drain plug and top off with fresh oil:

    [​IMG]

    step 15: run the bike for a short while to allow the filter to fill with oil and shut off and top off. run it again, watch for leaks and top off as needed.

    step 16: wish you hadn't had so many beers cuz now you can't go riding.
     
  6. Mad_Bohemian

    Mad_Bohemian Active Member

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    Great write-up Skeeter!!! pics are nice and clear too... Good job!
     
  7. xjdaver

    xjdaver Member

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    My Clymer Service Manual makes no mention of beer. Thats what I've been doing wrong all this time.

    Great write up.
     
  8. tcoop

    tcoop Active Member

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    I've heard that the Clymer and Hayns Manual had errors in them...this just proves it :p

    Great write up
     
  9. skeeter

    skeeter Member

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    there's a great typo in the clymer i had for my honda rebel - they said, "when working on your motorcycle, several pints should be kept in mind"

    (i'm guessing they meant points, but who am i to argue?)
     
  10. Bobe7316

    Bobe7316 Member

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    Hi all I have just fitted up one of these filter kits. I bought it off Chacal
    and I am very happy with the result. I found the kit was very well
    priced and affordable. The information sheet that came with the kit
    was very easy to read and follow until my kit was installed. I live in
    Australia and the postage of only 5 working days to me was very quick.

    Use a filter that has a bypass valve fitted into it(VERY IMPORTANT).
     
  11. mlew

    mlew Well-Known Member

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    Skeeter,
    I curious on some dimmentions of the filter adapter. I am thinkong of putting one on my XJ11 but the oil filter is on the bottom of the engine. I'm a little cautious that it will hang down too far.
    How thick is the plate?
    What it the total length of the filter and plate?
     
  12. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    The filter adapter that we offer will NOT work (at all) on the XJ1100 crankcase......it's an entirely different size, and it mounts differently on an XJ1100. We do not have the correct type of adapter for an 1100 engine, although there is a guy over on teh XS11.com website that sells a version which will work.
     
  13. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    Congrats on a well documented and photographed how to. These types of things should definitely go into a "How to" sticky section all of their own.
     
  14. lacucaracha

    lacucaracha Member

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    Does anyone know the part # on any of these spin on filters? I would order one from Chacal, but I need it ASAP. I think they'd carry the k&N where I am, or the fram...
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I hadn't come across this thread until today. Excellent writeup, however....
    K&N says that is a no-no. It's really easy to over torque the filter when using the nut to tighten it. Hand tighten only; the nut is to ease removal.
     
  16. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    lacucaracha the filter part numbers are Purolutor PL14612 and Fram is PH 6607. You can do a cross reference search to a K&N number.
     
  17. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Ive used the Quaker-state QS14612 with good results.
     
  18. autosdafe

    autosdafe Member

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    This makes me wish I had the extra cash to buy the kit.
     
  19. autosdafe

    autosdafe Member

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    This makes me wish I had the extra cash to buy the kit.
     

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