Starter button not working

Just wanted to start by saying thank you for all the information that I have learnt from this site. Now the issue that I'm having is I lost my starter button. Well it's still there but it doesn't work. When I push the button the headlight goes off and the oil light comes on like it should but that's it. I checked the blue wire with the white stripe in the headlight and it has power. This is the one that goes to the starter button. So I then tried changing the starter solenoid and it still doesn't. Can someone please explain where the blue wire from the solenoid goes to. I thought it went to the headlight bucket but I'm thinking that it must not unless its broken somewhere since I did a ohm test and got nothing. If anyone could do a quick sketch even of where the electrical starter circuits all go, and I can check for broken or melted wires and plugs etc. I hope that someone can help with this issue. Thanks in advance.

P.s I'm trying to sync my carbs using the 2 bottle method and I am getting more suction from number 2 cylinder. So should I just turn number 1 up until it evens out and the do #4 to #3 and then 2 to3 and then repeat right?
I know should be a separate post I agree. Thanks for all your help

 

blue/white wire connected to solinoid runs to starter button.
if oil light comes on starter button is working
head light goes off. 750 maxim? that would be correct as the headlight wire runs to starter button . headlight comes on with key and there is no headlight relay.
when button is pushed light contact is opened.

you will only get a reading on blue/white wire when starter button is pressed.

try jumping across the 2 nuts on the solinoid where battery and starter cable connect see if starter spins/bike turns over.
if that works could be dirty connections of the starter cable and battery cable. clean them retighten and see if it works.


if you put 12 volts to the connector on solinoid red/white wire and the blue/white wire this should triger solinoid and starter should spin. if it does not your solinoid is not working.

I see your bike is a maxim X 750. I will look at wiring diagram

 

it is ok to post different questions in your post it shows the history of your issues and fixes.

as to your sync question , that is how it is done in the factory service manual
sync 1 to 2
sync 4 to 3
sync 1/2 to 3/4

 

I just finished trying to sync the carbs again today. I have it so it will start right up with n issues but the #2 is sucking the bottle dry for the #1 cylinder. Its doing this at a pretty fast rate. I tried turning the #1 screw in so that it would be opening the butterfly more and t didn't seem to help so I then tried turning the #2 screw out a turn or two and it didn't seem to help either. I'm stumped why the number 2 cylinder is sucking so much harder vaccum wise. I have been crossing the solenoid to get it started since the button stopped working. It does show the oil light when I push the button and the headlight does go out but no starter. I even tried switching the solenoid. Another issue I'm starting to get stumped on. I am going to try pushing the starter button and check the blue/white wire at the solenoid and see if I have power there r not. This should tell me if it's a solenoid or not correct? But the carb. Sync I'm really not sure where to start since it does start pretty good but has a little kinda miss but not really. Almost like it is not getting the correct amount of fuel or mixture. Hope someone can help me abit more with this issue. I'll try and send a video of how its running so everyone can see and give advice. A video is alot better at telling you. Lol

 

So be aware that the XJ750X that utilizes a solenoid with only one wire the high current terminals can be hooked up incorrectly so that the starter button will not work - or more correctly the solenoid cannot be engaged because of lack of power.



You can also have an issue with the safety circuit that results in the starter cutoff relay not engaging and providing a current path for the starter solenoid to the starter switch - note the oil light will still illuminate even if the starter cutoff relay is not engaged.

I use a Morgan Carbtune so not sure about this one, but suspect that increasing the length / height of the tubes to deal with the vacuum differential between the two cylinders would help.

Opening the butterfly will reduce vacuum, so if #2 is sucking the bottle dry then you need to open #2 and close #1.

 

Thanks rooster. I know that this is not the best way to ho about a carburetor sync. But it's better than none I was hoping. Lol. I think just listening to the engine worked better. At least I can start it with little issues now. I am going to get a proper sync done before I start driving it any distance. I'm just rebuilding this one literally from the ground up. It does start and run decent now anyway. I did get the starter issue fixed also. The solenoid isn't any good. Either of them. I have power on the blue/ white wire going to it,and when I hit the starter button it drops yo almost 0 and the solenoid doesn't work. So I checked with my other x I run daily and it's the same exactly but it starts when I push the button and it drops to 0 also. So I'm sure it's a solenoid. Easy fix. Now if I could get the carbs sync done correctly. I don't think that it would take that long but one shop said it would take a hour. How long does one usually take you guys? Thanks for all the help also. I appreciate it .

 

a shop is going to charge you an hour even if it takes 1/2 hour. I would think just like cars motorcycles have a flat rate manual fo giving estimates.

you could put restrictors in the line to slow the flow while you adjust the sync.

 

I'm not sure if you can do this. I guess you could as long as you did all the same to all them.

 

For restrictors you take the red tubes from carburetor spray epoxy them into fitting connectors. Splices



then insert them into the vacuum lines simple enough. Just make sure you use the same red tubes with the same diameters. That will read the vacuum it just will not allow a lot of flow through it. The other option is to get longer vacuum lines and hope you can catch it before the fluid flows all the way up.

 

Well I got the starter working correctly. Know if I can get the carbs. Set up correctly.

 

I'm not sure about the 700X, but on my 700 there is one sync screw between #1 an #2, one between, #3 and #4, and one between #2 an #3. The screw between # 1 and #2 is used to sync those two carbs. Turn it one way and it will increase vacuum from one carb, turn it the other way and it will increase vacuum from the other. Only use that screw to get the #1 and #2 in sync. Then do the same thing for the number # 3 and # 4 carbs by using the screw between the # 3 and #4 carb. Once you have the #1 and #2 synced, and the # 3 and # 4 synced, you use the screw between # 2 and #3 to get them all in sync. It sounds to me like you are trying to sync #1 and #2 by using two screws and that won't work.

 

Can you explain the restrictors XJ 550 I am missing something here?

 

on the home made sync tools and on vac gauge setups you use a restrictor in the line.
with vac guages it stabilizes the needle swing in the home made setups it will slow the flow of atf (indicator fluid) up in hose into carbs if setting is way off.
the vacuum is still there but less volume of flow.

 

Interesting I see what you mean, not done a sync yet even though I have owned my Yamaha a while because it is not on the road. Had a single cylinder machine for years so I need to learn how to do the sync for the XJ.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47311-Restrictor-X-0185/dp/B000CO7APW

Use something like this in the appropriate size.

 

yes those look like they would work. some people use welding tips .
you only need to use them on the home made sync tool made from tubing. the bottle setup does not allow fluid to flow into carbs

 

Those are what I use with my homemade mercury version. The mercury only jumps minimally and looks similar to the performance of the CarbTune.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the restrictors. They should help alot. I did find a issue with my home made synchronizer that I made. I asked for 2 gas lines 3 feet long and although they looked the same it seems that one has a smaller diameter inside. So that's why it didn't matter what side I hooked up and I could reverse them and it was always the same bottle going empty. It was the smaller inside diameter line. So back I go for 1 piece 7 feet long. I cant believe I didn't catch that when I hooked it up. Its close but still a little different which wont work. And if anyone is looking to build one of these. Use 2 big whine bottles. Believe me plastic bottles dont work. I borrowed a friend's a d it collapsed them both soon as it started. Lol . He was shocked and I said told ya they wouldn't do. Anyway I guess I'll retry the sync when I get the line and restrictions in them. I think it should work this time. Now the next question. How can I set the air mixture on the front throat of the carbs. I hard colortune but will that work on the 85 maxim x? The plugs are down inside so far can you still see the color of the spark with this? I dont imagine that theres a way to do it without a special tool etc. And thanks for all the help.

 

"And if anyone is looking to build one of these. Use 2 big whine bottles. Believe me plastic bottles dont work. I borrowed a friend's a d it collapsed them both soon as it started. Lol"

Trust me, you aren't the first to discover that plastic bottles will not work. I started with two plastic baby bottles and they collapsed in about 2 seconds--flatter than a pancake. But glass baby bottles work well and the mouth is big enough to use a larger rubber cork that will easily handle the two tubes in each bottle. Besides, I couldn't sync much of anything after having to empty two wine bottles!