Starter Button (Radio Shack Replacement) Wiring Questions

I just got a Radio Shack button as per DM Sulers March 27th post. Befoe I modify the housing I just want to be sure of what I am doing. A have a few questions. #1 How do I know which posts to solder my black and blue wire leads to? there aren't any markings on the unit. #2 I assume that the blue wire connects to the blue wire from the stock button, but where do I connect the black wire, since the old one only had the one blue wire hooked up to it. #3 Does it matter that the stock starter button worked by completing the ground circuit when depressed to start up and the Radio Shack model is made to work on the power side? I thought those type of switches or in this case buttons were part of a continuous positive loop. So, why is there a positive and a negative wire hooked up to it instead of 2 positve wires? Sorry if these questions sound stupid, but I guess we all have to start somewhere. I really appreciate having this resource because I beleive in the "Hands On" approach. Thanks. 1981 XJ 550 Maxim

 

The black wire will go to a good ground inside the housing. The original switch was internally grounded to activate the solenoid. One wire to the original wire, one to ground - simple. With simple switches there is no pos. or neg. they are not polarity sensative.

 

Thank you for quick response JF. Since I have someone who has owned his XJ 550 for 28 years responding, I have a more serious problem with the bike,as well. When it was running, I would ride it for awhile then all of a sudden after stopping at traffic light, I would go to accelerate and it would lose all power and just barely keep puttering off to the side of the road. Most of the time it would re-start and run fine again after a few minutes but it is happening more frequently now. Any ideas? Thanks. 1981 XJ 550 Maxim

 

When did you last change plugs? Alt brushes? Does your headlight dim just before it sputters? If the alt output gets real low I have heard that you can have similar symptoms.

 

theres a vent in the gas cap to let air in as the gas goes out, it can get plugged up
try opening the cap when this happens you might be able to hear it suck air in as it pops open
or try riding with the cap down but not locked but not with a full tank

 

Polack is right about the vent, could be the problem.

Gotta say that the only problems I've ever had are the carbs gummed (my fault - left it stored with gas in the carbs for 2 years), starter button and switch, and the fuse box. These seem to be standard issues for these bikes. When it happened to me, I was on my own, oh for this site then!!The mufflers also rusted through in the first few years until I learned how to store for the winter... so I have a set of aftermarkets on it. Wish I could locate OEMs, but would only accept "like new". I only found this site a few months ago and have learned a great deal from it and am continuing to gather info. I do have a manual if you need to reference procedures. Always willing to share.

 

I just got the motorcycle a couple months ago. The PO took really good care of it and it was running great. I did have to replace (up grade) the fuse box. I am going to replace the starter button tomorrow. I thought the alternator was going out, so I had the battery tested after my last ride and it was at 12.75 V. Hopefully, after I check out the plugs and replace the starter button I will be able to get it starting consistently. Then, I will move on to the sputtering power loss at stop lights. I"ll check the gas cap vent. Also, I just remembered, the first time it did this was right after I got caught in a wicked hail and rain storm. I was getting bruised and soaked so I rode 20 miles as fast as I could (40 MPH) through big puddles and driving rain. Maybe water damaged something. Any ideas what to check?

 

A fully charged 12 volt battery should measure at 13.2 volts. Check the alt output. The charging voltage should be about 14.6 volts at high rpm. See if you can load test your battery. First charge with a trickle charger so as not to damage the battery. Try to get as close to the 13.2 V as possible. Use the starter to load it, cranking voltage should be no less than 10 volts. Check all cable connections for corrosion and tightness. There is a ground cable from the block to the frame at the right bottom of the engine. This could cause problems if loose or corroded.

To grasp at straws here as you said it started after riding in the rain, check for moisture or corrosion at the pick up coils and connection to them under the engine left side cover.

Check all connectors for corrosion.

 

If yo go to pdftown dot com thes a manual for the 550.

 

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/Not_Mother/


There is a schematic at the above site for your bike. Colours correspond to the wires. The one marked with Page 1 is for the maxim and pages 2 & 3 are for the Seca

It may be helpful.

 

Thank you all! This is so awesome! I printed out the Schematic and your suggestions to follow this weekend, ( I only have internet at work). So, I will let you know if I am riding or still hoofing it on Monday.

 

What kind of switch did you pick up from radio shack?

 

Re: Starter Button (Radio Shack Replacement) Wiring Question

You all do know Chacal sells a replacement switch for about $10? That's a bit more than the RadioShack switch but you just pop it in and forget about it for 25 years or so..............

 

I actually have a switch and button on order. I did replace mine with a switch from a lift truck I was working on. Smaller than the original so no mods required. I do want the bike to look original and when I found this site and eventually Chacal, started getting what I need ordered.

 

Hi Katrina,
Sorry it took me awhile to respond. I picked up the switch that Doug descrides in his Xj 550 starter switch frustrations Post. It is a momentary SPST push button switch Rated 3A 125 VAC Part# 275-0644. Between his post and this one you get all of the details. One thing that I did differently was the way that I modified the hole so that this part would fit. I just used a small flat file and a round file. First I filed the top and bottom of the hole to the right dimensions, to match the flat areas of the new part, then I used the round file to expand the sides of the hole until it slid into position nice and snug. There is just enough room to make it work. It should be modified precisely to fit because there is no room for the tightening nut on the inside of the housing. I am really happy with the result because it is a sealed unit. Unlike the original part. Thanks Doug!

 

;-)