Starter Clutch Parts Replaced-Long Method-Long Story

After trying the short-cut method of replacing the starter clutch parts (not enough room to separate the starter drive gear from the clutch, not enough room to get the chain off the sprocket, and no way the larger diameter clutch hub is coming out the smaller alternator hole), and the clutch slippage getting worse, I finally broke down and pulled the motor to replace the parts I’d had for some time. My bike has almost 39,000 miles on it (I’m at least the third owner), and I couldn’t justify the cost of a complete rebuild, especially since it doesn’t smoke, doesn’t leak, has good compression, no cylinder leak-down over 10%, shifts fine, and I replace the clutch recently.
So I pulled the motor, stripped the sides & oil pan, pulled the top case bolts and flipped it upside down, pulled the bottom case bolts and split the cases. They didn’t want to come apart easily (or go together-more on that later) because I didn’t pull the two middle drive gear bearing retaining plates off the left side (the star head bolts were staked & no doubt loctited, and when I tried to remove one of them, the head of my star bit started to twist).
Main bearings looked great, transmission fine, took apart the starter clutch-the rollers, springs and cups looked good. I measured the new parts against the old, and found no wear. The only thing I could find was the new springs felt a bit stronger than the old (this turned out to be why it was slipping, as it starts fine now when hot as well as cold).
I had bought a new alternator/starter chain guide after reading about how they had come apart & broke mounting tabs on other owner’s bikes. When I tried to remove the front mounting bolt, the head snapped off. CRAP!! The two others came out hard, since they were loctited. So I started with a small drill on the broken bolt to make sure it was centered and kept upsizing the bits until I got to the size for my smallest ezout. I put as much force on it as I dared, not wanting to break it off in the broken bolt. It didn’t budge, so I kept upsizing bits & drilling until I could punch the rest of it out. I ran a 6 mm tap through it, tried a new bolt, but it was loose in the threads. So not wanting to spend $42.00 for a helicoil kit, I tapped it to ¼-20 and used an American bolt. As far as the condition of the old guide, it was still in one piece, but I could see where the rubber was starting to split at the base of the zigzag ‘teeth’ on the backside, just a matter of time before it started spitting teeth. And yes, the new one only has two mounting tabs.
I got the old gaskets scraped off & cleaned just the parts that really needed it (the motor was surprisingly sludge-free), and replaced most of the gaskets & seals while putting it together ($180.00 inc. the guide-I get the former employee discount). The cases were a challenge going together since the middle gear drive bearing seats against the cases, with a shim behind it. I was concerned that the shim wouldn’t behave and line up with the bottom case when assembled. I made sure it stayed against the bearing when I set the bottom case on, and it was a snug fit to get the cases together the last ¼”, since the middle gear drive bearing plates were still on. Everything spun & shifted fine, so I kept going.
Other than the broken chain guide bolt, nothing else went wrong, and 18 hours (over 3 days) into it with sore feet & back , it was running great, no oil leaks and everything works. I never touched the top end except to check/adjust the valves while the motor was out.
And to think I used to do this for a living 20+ years ago, I’ve sure gotten rusty since then.

Anybody want to buy a nice Seca 750 with new starter clutch parts & chain guide? Check out my ad in the for sale forum.

 

Maybe your post is ancient history now. I recently put my engine with new rings and valve grind together and back in the bike. Starter motor needs recondition. Did it, now somehow found that the Starter Chain had broken up in the gearbox!
So far got the sump off and still battling with the same problem of the staked star head bolts. Trying to minimise what I pull off.

 

first
then drill the dent in the screw slightly with a 1/8 inch bit

 

Those "Star Head" Bolts are callled TORX fasteners.

The TORX Fasteners you need to remove are treated with THREAD LOCKING Compound and Torqued to Specs.

As has been suggested, ... Remove them with the proper Tools.

You will need:
12 Oz. Ball-Peen Hammer
A Hand-held Impact Wrench Set. (Craftsman / Sears )
1/2-Inch -to- 3/8ths Inch Drive Converter
3/8ths TORX Socket
-or-
3/8ths Bit Holding Socket & TORX Bit Set
-or-
Set of 3/8ths TORX Sockets