Starter Clutch problems (I think)

Did you take the bolt out that holds the crankcase together behind the oil filter housing (if applicable to the 650 engine) and the ones under the oil pan? Yes the parts you have found are parts of the chain guide.

 

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Finally finished the split and took out all the guts. Guess its time to start ordering pieces. Couple of questions though.
1. Does the oil spray nozzle look alright? I think it is, but I really wouldn't know.

2. So the half rings, assuming they're called that because well they're half of a full ring, but do they have both ends? As in, half ring on my input shaft and on the middle gear shaft sleeve gear had half rings on 1 or the other side of the case, but not on both. Is that normal or am i just missing the other half of each?
2a. Also, does it matter which side of the case it was on? When I split the case, the bottom half had the half ring on the input shaft, and on the middle gear shaft sleeve one was on the top half and the other the bottom half of the case.

3. When I manually rotate the starter clutch it seems to work fine(doesnt rotate one way, but rotates the other), am I safe to assume this is simple because I'm not putting enough force in the lock rotate?
3a. The hub and pinion unit on the starter clutch just pulls off? Seemed solid when I was inspecting it, but I didnt put a lot of force on it since I wasn't sure how it came apart.

 

Oil spray nozzle looks fine which is great because your starter chain has not been hitting it even with the guide broken.

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...982-c-usa-transmission_bigyau0792c-6_e39a.gif

Items 29 and 31 are needed and item 11 on the above schematic. I think there should be locating grooves in the crankcase for the half rings to locate into. Just fit them back into them. You should replace the parts already outlined on the starter clutch when you have the cases split. It locks when you turn it one way but not another which it is meant to do but the parts are cheap in comparision with the time and more money you would need to spend should the starter clutch slip in future.

 

Hey Franz, yeah, i see the grooves on the crankcase my question was more, is there supposed to be a counterpart to the half rings? since both sides of the crankcase have the grooves, should there be the other half on the opposite end, or are they simple 1 half per 21, 31 and 11. Thanks for answering all my questions so far though, I do appreciate it, you too 550, I do appreciate all the assistance.

 

No just one half ring per bearing. And when you start rebuilding the motor check your gears are all selecting properly and you can get neutral.

 

any thoughts on this as a cylinder hone? Would it fit our cylinders?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...&pf_rd_p=ab873d20-a0ca-439b-ac45-cd78f07a84d8

 

Never used one. One of the other forum members will advise you on what they think.

 

I have used one with my 700X, just be careful slow and steady. You will then have to measure for new rings and then measure and adjust the new rings in each cylinder. Sure brought my 700X back to life.

 

correct size it is the stone grit you want to look at xj4ever catalog lists grits to use

 

I took the starter clutch apart and the rollers seem fine but I dont know what to look for as far as they being bad. I know I'll need the springs and plungers but are rollers normally required?

 

I don't think the rollers are expensive, even if they are not scored I would change them if it were my bike.

 

you're right, I was looking at the cost of of a kit on ebay vs one by chacal, although a little more on chacal, I'm hoping with all the good reviews here, it will be much better quality and proper fit instead of risking ebay. The caps seem to be the most expensive part though. I guess thats more difficult to manufacture?

 

Yes the manufacturing costs are probably higher for the caps. Some manufacturers have the starter clutch outside the crankcase and easy to access and repair but the XJ series are inside and you only want to strip the engine once. You can contact Chacal on, info@xj4ever.com and he will have the parts necessary for you to rebuild your engine. All the best.

 

OK, so here's where I'm at. The engine is back together and back on the bike. Right before taking it off the bike I had rebuilt the starter motor and during testing, I head a pop and then no more starter. I was about to put it back in and remembered the pop. Go to test it, put 12V directly to it and nothing (groupded properly) with my bench power supply. No spin, no noise, no spark, no smoke like if nothing was happening. Is it possible to have fried the motor completely or could it be that I had an internal short due to the rebuild kit? It was an amazon one. I put it in, and the initial test worked fine but like I said, it popped after a couple more trying to turn then engine (this was before the engine split). I wasn't a fan of how the parts fit but I didnt see any critical issues at the time and it did work 3-4 times. Now my concern is do I need a whole new starter or do you think I can just get another rebuild kit? Is chacals specific to ours or is it similar to the amazon ones that work on multiple starters? Although the amazon had all the bits I didnt feel the brushes sat in the right position and the 1 bolt to brush bit felt like it wasn't sitting in the right position, as in the pin should have aimed the other way. Anyways, can the whole starter be blown to do a short?

 

Probably not. Probably a brush or a brush lead broke. If you open it up you'll likely see what the problem is. If everything looks OK, then you'll need to take the armature and use a meter to measure across each pair of flats from one side to the other. Should be basically a short across each pair of flats... The manual says .014 Ohms, but you need a specialized meter to accurately measure low resistances like that. Bad is likely to be open. "Short" is good in this case.

 

Well looks like it may have been the internal insulating bushing. Not fully trusting the amazon kit I'm going to order a rebuild kit from chacal and get my master cylinder site glass while I'm at it. Tested the starter and all contacts seem to be between .5 and .7 in terms of resistance when testing oposite ends and .4 to .5 when testing next to each other. Hopefully thats OK, and there is no continuity between the contacts and the outer casing.

 

Hey all, i'm back with more questions. I'm slow on the move so haven't done much with the bike other then put it on the bike and connect everything back up. Didn't want to start (no combustion) so had to get some starter fluid. First time running it with starter fluid it rev'd pretty high and freaked me out (i've never owned a bike) and the tach wasn't attached. Killed it and put the tach back on. All 4 cylinders seem to be fully functional as all 4 exhaust pipes are HOT. Yesterday hit it again with the starter fluid and it fired back up. Ran for a few secs but died on me (didnt have the tank on). Today it started without the need for the starter fluid and idled for a while, this was with choke on, after a few minutes (about 3) it jumped up in revs. I think i've read on a post something about this situation but i'll have ot look for it again unless someone knows what it means. I still need to re-shim and color tune as well as carb sync but before shims I want to get it as close to running smooth as possible, trying to limit spending.

sorry, I'm long winded, main reason for post is actually this. Take a hear/look. There's a high pitched whine that sounds loudest when my ear is closest to carbs, any idea what could be? there's also a shot of my multimeter, guessing those numbers show a properly charging system?


Also, this picture shows a hole in the center pipe that goes between the 2 pipes. Its about 1 1/2 inches from left to right pipes. As you can see, looks like a lot of rust. I thought about getting a small enough diameter clamp with enough width to cover the whole but haven't found something yet. is that a good idea, or should it be repaired? Cheaper to find someone to fix it or look for new (to me) pipes?

 

Motor sounds good to me. My engine makes the same sound. Valve check is essential before doing carburettors. You are setting the carburettors up on the engines vacuum so they must open and close at the right time and in spec clearances do that. You may not need shims. Check valve clearances on a cold engine. If you have the tool that bolts to the cylinder head to keep the valve open you can crack the head if you turn the cam towards the tool. There is a how to do clearances on this forum by Bigfitz. Read that first.

Charging system is working properly. Depending on how corroded pipe is you can try a repair but if it's too weak better replacing it. A clamp over the hole will be a temporary solution but it will still leak gas without sealer.

 

Valve clearance thread.

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bigfitzs-airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics-parts-i-ii.116006/

You can use the wire or zip tie method to keep the valves open which means you don't need the tool that bolts to the cylinder head.