Starter Motor Clucth

I am just sizing up job I may have to do and would like to ask if anyone knows of a way to get to the starter motor clutch without splitting the crankcases?

 

yes.

 

and that method would be...?

 

There is a link on the XS page I think that shows a how-to by inverting the bike and entering the sump. Will someone with a better memory correct me if I'm mistaken?

 

The member who performed this shortcut had never done the procedure before ... as well. His text appears here as a courtesy to the members of this group from XJ-Planet.

+++ Notes on replacing the starter clutch without engine removal and case splitting. +++

By: Karl Hughes -- karl.hughes @ rmit.edu.au
Edited by: Rick Massey -- xj900owner @ aol.com

Yes, it is possible, (to overhaul the starter clutch without case spliting)* however if you drop the rollers, springs, or spring caps in the crankcase, you going to have to do it the "right" (split the cases)* way anyway...Be prepared....The keys are some patience and go slow...

I'm doing this from memory so if I left something out or you have a
question, please let me know....

First I took off the starter assembly off and the alternator cover
and positioned it aside.

Next you must remove the stator (the big
copper thing inside the cover that spins with/the engine) there's a
bolt in the middle to remove, but the stator has to be pressed off
the shaft, you'll have to have a special tool. (Actual Yamaha Special Tool)*

I've seen them on ebay, but I modified an old harmonic balancer removal tool (the threads were the same)...If you look at the stator it has threads
cast into its housing, thread the special puller bolt into that, and
while turning the puller, the stator will slide off the shaft. (May need an application of heavy torque -- the assembly will "Give" and come off)*

**(Tapping lightly on the puller bolt will often help loosening the pressed-on stator)** -- RickCoMatic

Next, remove the three torx screws that hold the retainer
plate to the case.

Then, the oil spray tube can be removed.

Now the tricky part.

Pull the shaft out of the case (the starter clutch unit will fall down) ((come-out and down))*

Using long screw drivers separate the two half's
of the clutch mechanism.

The half closest to you will have the chain wrapped around it, and half farthest from you (The Starter Clutch)* will contain the rollers, springs, and spring caps.

Using the long screwdriver, hold the farther section up higher than closer, using another screwdriver you can manipulate, and rotate the clutch/roller
mechanism around to remove the three rollers, springs, and caps....A
telescoping magnet will help a lot.

(EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN REMOVING THE SMALL PARTS.)*

Reassemble the opposite of removal, go slow, make sure both halves of the clutch mate together properly, use a dab of grease to hold the springs, and caps together....

I will also add as a side note, as it may or may not be required to
do so, but I did have the trans clutch removed while doing this.

I also unbolted the idler gear that goes between the starter and the
starter clutch (this is done from the trans clutch side).

The idler gear will fall down an inch but can easily be manipulated with
magnets and screwdrivers.

+++++ End of text by Mr. Hughes +++++

Following added by me for your special attention.

Sacrifice a bed sheet. Cut the sheet into a LONG 2-inch "ribbons"
Use lengths of the long ribbon to STUFF into the cavity to PREVENT anything from (DROPPING) entering the engine cavity. STUFF long length of the ribbon into voids -- Tightly! When you have successfully dealt with those small parts that might "GET AWAY" ... you can easily remove ALL the safety stuffing by withdrawing the ribbon from the cavity.

If you drop anything into the cavity ... the SHORTCUT is OVER and you'll be needing to remove the engine and split cases to finish the job and retrieve those parts that fell into the engine cavity.

*Portions added / edited by Rick Massey

It's straight-forward wrenching until you replace the springs ans rollers ... then, you need your Open Heart Surgeon hat on!

Best of luck,

 

Thanks for the replies, I thought that there must be a better way than the complete engine strip!!! Just got to find time now.

 

Anyone know what the "Yamaha Special Tool" is actually called if someone wanted to buy this? (The one for removing the stator from the shaft)

It looks like I might have to perform this surgery soon...

 

And here they are!:


ap7) Aftermarket alternator Rotor Removal Tool, correct copy of the factory Yamaha tool needed to remove the alternator rotor from its mounting shaft (the rotor is a friction fit onto the tapered end of the alternator shaft). Designed to be used in conjuction with the HCP6495 rotor puller tool Attachment Tool listed below. The use of these two tools allows you to safely and properly remove your rotor without damaging either the rotor or the rotor shaft. For all XJ550 thru XJ1100 models.

HCP1404 Aftermarket Rotor Puller-Removal Tool, screws into the threaded hub of the alternator,
$ 14.95

HCP6495 Aftermarket rotor puller tool Attachment Tool, slides into the end of the internally threaded alternator shaft and prevents the tip of the HCP1404 from "mushrooming" the end of the shaft.
$ 3.95