Stock valve shim size?

I finally did a valve clearance check today, and these are my results:

Intake 1: .09
Intake 2: .10
Intake 3: .08
Intake 4:: .10

Exhaust 1: .09
Exhaust 2: .10
Exhaust 3: .17
Exhaust 4: .12

As you can see, I only have 1 in proper clearance, however I didn't have a tool to take the shims out to see what they were, but I'm assuming they are the stock ones, because this bike has been neglected previously.

As time is an issue, is there a way for me to figure out the shims I need by referencing them to a stock shim (if they exist)?

Thanks for the help.

 

Only way to figure what size of shim you will need is to know what size of shims you have in there.

SO, you need to pull them out, one by one, and read the number on the bottom face.

 

They didn't come with a factory uniform shim?

 

Each shim has a number stamped on them like, 280, 285...etc...etc.....you need to pull out each one to determine what shim to replace it with in order to obtain proper clearances......No way around it.....

 

On my 550 the only tools required was a couple ty-wraps, a small non-magnetic screwdriver and a pair of needle nose. Of course the wrench to bar it around.

 

I understand you are supposed to put the ty-wrap through the spark plug hole, but how can you be sure that the hook got in the proper position?

 

Check out bigfitz's howto guide #2, it shows exactly where the zip tie is holding the bucket.

 

To explicitly answer your question: There is not a stock shim size.

Each valve is shimmed at the factory to give proper clearance. There is variation in the manufacturing process.

 

You can see the valves when you look through the plug hole, and also can feel the valve stop and grab the zip-tie ( I prefer using a length of insulated copper house wire). You will also notice that the bucket won't rise all of the way as you rotate the cam.

 

Also, I'll open up a hornet's nest...........

You CAN use a magnetic tip to pull the shims.

I do.

Others do.

IT SAYS THAT"S WHAT TO DO IN THE SHOP MANUAL.

If nobody else likes it, fine. I'm gonna keep doing it that way.

flame away,

Dave Fox

PS: Like others said....you have to pull each shim to check the number. Now the intelligent thing would be to keep a record of what shims are where AFTER your swap. Then when it's time for the NEXT check, you can pull out your reference sheet and check it then.................and don't do what I did-----forget where you put that sheet. That's ok.....it doesn't present that much of a problem, just means that I pull the shim to check the number again.

 

Word of caution when checking the numbers on the shim, most of mine were exactly what the shim said the were, but a couple were not. It matters not what the number says, it matters what it really is. I checked everyone of them with my calipers and recommended same.

 

Thank you all for your patience and help.

 

I did mine today and I used a piece of 12 gauge insulated wire. It is easy to see the valve open in the plug hole just slip the wire in the hole and put it on top of the valve and rotate the engine. The worst part of the job is getting the shim out. you need to know that the diameter when you go to get new shims. I believe that they are all 29mm but double check that. Good luck

 

I absolutely agree.......most of the time......the shim will measure to the number....but it does not hurt to use a good set of outside calipers or micrometer to measure thickness of shim & check that measurement against it's stamped number

 

hogfiddles, hint, scratch that number in the bearing cap

 

I wouldn't do that, the next time you have to change the shim, you'd have a new number......you can't erase the scratched-in number.

Dave F

 

Isn't that akin to marking an "X" in the bottom of the boat when you're over the good fishing spot?

 

hey, for grins, I measured the thickness of my valve shims when I checked my clearances over the weekend.......they were consistently off by .03mm. Either the tolerances of OEM Yamaha shims suck or I attribute it the cheap China Harbor Freight calipers I purchased for $20.....at least it has a nice readout.....inches & mm.....

Now, be careful with your reply as I am sensitive but I am thick skinned....

 

Yup. I have mine written down in two different maintenance books.
At 55, I could probably forget where I put one, but hopefully, I wouldn't lose both records.

 

Consistently improper measurements from one caliper points to a problem with the measuring tool.