Swing Arm Bearing Race Replacement

I did a search but not much info on this and the manual doesn't cover the actual replacement. Any tips on replacing? I plan to remove the races with a puller or pry bar and then press the new ones in until they seat.

FSM states that the lock washer that bends to retain the nut should be replaced with a new one. Overkill? I didn't order one and I'm thinking I can use the existing if I bend a different section and there are no signs of metal fatigue.

I'll take some pics so we can have a detailed How To thread on this topic.

 

lock tite works well as a back up or primary use.
bending an unused tang works too.

my locks all had just used 1 tang. disc brake, rear sprocket

 

Use a new locking tab. They are not expensive. You can use a different section of the used one if you really need to meet a budget, but mine had both locking sections bent at the factory.

The races should be tapped out with a brass drift, or with a press made from two sockets, a grade 8 bolt, nut, and a thick washer. One socket will be slightly smaller than the ID of the swingarm bore, and the other needs to be just larger than the OD of the bearing race. Warming the swingarm bores with a torch or heat gun will help the races to come out easier. Freezing the new races in addition to heating the swingarm bores will make it very easy to pop the new races into place with just light taps from a hammer (again, using a brass drit) or your homemade press.

Using a prybar invtes the risk of twisting the swingarm.

 

Spot on advice one again k-moe. I utilized three sockets. 1-1/2" for the outside, a 1" to pull the driveshaft side, and a 7/8" on the right side. The ride side was a little tricky since you cannot get a socket on the back side. I happened to have some washers that just fit through the race. I put those on top of the 7/8" socket and pushed it a little off center when tightening the nut.

Pics as promised.

Sockets in action. The 1" socket is pulling the race into the 1-1/2" socket.



Once removed, this will give you an idea of what is going on:


For the non driveshaft side. Here you can see the washer on top of the 7/8" socket. The washer just popped through and would grab the race if you applied a little side pressure when tightening the nut on top.



The new races pressed in as you would any normal race.

Progress! The swingarm is installed. Going to order a new locknut tonight.

 

Wow, so much nicer than the smacking the crap out of it with a long high tensile chisel from one side
Next time I'll give that a go.

 

Great post and thank you jayrodoh for your follow up. I had a minor crisis getting the races out of the steering neck of my 700s. I had ordered different tools to sort it out, but none of 'em could get a firm grip to get a solid punch. I sought to the welding trick and it worked like a charm. Welding some small beds on the races makes them almost fall off by themselves. The races on the swingarm was up next, and I applied the same welding trick here. After a small welding bed, they could easily be twisted out by hand - after been cooled down a bit. Photo attached.

 

Can confirm. XJ700 steering head bearings are terrible to remove. Luckily they are tapered roller type from the factory, and shouldn't need to be replaced as often as the older models will the ball bearing type.

My battle with 700 steering head bearings is documented here:
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tapered-roller-bearing-insert-removal.130432/