Tank painting advice wanted

My daily Seca came with a bad paint job that got worse when I filled it with gas—there wound up a streak from the filler to the low spot of the tank where the crazing was far worse. Rebuilt the gas cap, sanded off all the repaint down to original finish and bare metal, and repainted with Rustolium oil-based paint through a Harbor Freight paint gun. That looked OK (other than the lack of color choice) but I didn’t wait very long before using the bike…and the first time I filled the tank again, had the same streak, this time of bubbled paint. Local auto paint store wanted around $300 for the stuff I would need to paint with 2 part. Realized I didn’t have the patience to be without a running bike, so I sewed up a vinyl top and glued it on.

I now have a parts bike with a tank in better condition, except for a bad rattlecan metal flake paint job. I plan to sand that off and repaint. I’m in no hurry to install that tank. Short of $300 worth of catalyzed paint, how can I get a decent paint job on the tank that won’t blister the first time I fill up?

On a related note—the parts tank is neither rusty nor lined inside. If I need to leave it empty for a while, should I coat it with something so it doesn’t rust?

 

i used this on two bikes and it made me look like i knew what i was doing. PPG Omni

 

Do an Amazon search for Spray Max 2k clear coat. 2-part in a rattle can. Sprays like a gun, very good stuff. Not cheap at $25 a can, but it's gasoline safe and can be used over any type of paint.

One can did my tank, gas cap, and front fender, 4 coats.

Spray first coat, then a second coat 15 minutes later. wait 8 hours and repeat both coats. Let dry.

 

PO painted my tank and clear coated it. However, when exposed to gas some of it peeled off. I'm wondering if I could use this product to repair the damaged area rather than having to do the complete tank. There are some nice graphics that I would hate to loose if I have to take it all off. Or maybe I could just remove the clear coat. Anyone ever tried that?

 

Getting off just the clear is easy...on a professional paint job, such as a new car.

On a cobble job by a PO it's a different story.

IF you could repair the area that's bad, yes you can spay it over the existing paint and clear.

You want to coat the entire tank with 2k, or you'll just have the same problem the next time you have a mess filling it up.

 

Would you recommend sanding the tank down first?

 

I had the same problem until I used duplicolor clear engine paint. Now I can soak in gas and it just wipes off.

 

I actually talked with a technician at USC where they make the 2k. He advised me to use 400 or 500 grit wet sand and take all or most of the existing clear coat off. He thinks it is acrylic which is not suitable for applications where gas may contact it. He also recommended that I get the 2K Glamour High Gloss Clearcoat #3680061 rather than USC Spray Max Rapid Cut-in Spot Clearcoat Aerosol #3680062. Said that it worked much better for this application. Also told me that I could extend the usable time for up to a week by storing the can in the frig after opening it.