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Tank rust removal. No frills. Easiest. Fastest. Cheapest.

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by sethoneal7, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. BaldWonder

    BaldWonder Innocent Bystander

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    Good call. Thanks.
     
  2. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Any word online about how it reacts to gas? It says "converts rust to a paintable surface", but I doubt painting the inside of the tank is an option. Or is it? I have small amounts of rust in my tank, so I'm considering all the options...
     
  3. FtUp

    FtUp Well-Known Member

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    he is planning to coat the inside of the tank, so there will be no contact with gas.

    FU
     
  4. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Duhh. After posting questions i looked back further in the thread and saw the stuff about coating.
     
  5. BaldWonder

    BaldWonder Innocent Bystander

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    I finally got curious enough and looked it up to see what the converter makes, and it would seem while it might not necessarily be adversely affected by gasoline, the extra step of a sealant isn't a bad idea. Also, since it would seem the converter doesn't have great depth penetration ability, tumbling the inside of the tank with gravel to get any thicker rust off first is a good idea as well.

    From http://www.autos.com/auto-repair/how-does-a-rust-converter-work:

    "How a Rust Converter Works in Theory

    "Rust converters are designed to neutralize existing rust as well as prevent it from advancing its damage. The active ingredient in most rust converters is Tannin, in the form of tannic acid. This tannic acid combines with the Iron Oxide to form a more stable compound called Iron Tannate, which is typically black in color compared to the reddish color of rust. Many commercial rust converters will include both a polymer to act as a protective layer, and an additional acidic compound designed to accelerate the chemical processes related to the tannic acids. One such acid, known as Phosphoric acid may also work as a rust converter itself, by reacting with the Iron oxide and converting it to black ferric phosphate.

    "Limitations and Function in Practice

    "While scientific evidence exists proving that applying tannic or phosphoric acid to Iron Oxide does indeed promote the formation of Iron Tannate and Ferric Phosphate respectively, this same evidence shows these formations tend to only occur along the outer most layers of the metal. What this means is that while rust converters may be effective at removing light cases of surface rust, their ability to penetrate and convert deeper deposits of rust may be limited to non-existent. This means that for advanced cases of rust, these converters may be useless. In addition, any metals treated with a converter as part of an auto rust repair regiment should be cleaned and coated with a protectant as soon as possible after the converter has done its job. Otherwise, surface rust may quickly regain a foothold on the metal.

    "When it comes to rust, the best approach is one of prevention rather than treatment. There are many different methods to preventing rust that can be quite effective, but once rust has become a problem, it can be very difficult if not impossible to fully remedy the problem."
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2015
  6. oscarkilo

    oscarkilo Member

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    Ahahahahahahaaha that's so jokes lmao!!!
     
    hogfiddles likes this.
  7. oscarkilo

    oscarkilo Member

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    I gota do this to my tank after taking the small dent out of it. Still don't know if I wana tack a brace from the outside with welding and then pull it out or to cut the tank open and hammer it out whilst cleaning it at the same time. The possibilities are endless.

    Great post man. It's genius because it is so simple.
     
  8. Albertus

    Albertus New Member

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    Simple technique, impressive results. Thanks for sharing!
     
  9. Wintersdark

    Wintersdark Well-Known Member

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    Just did this, and posted my results in another thread, but figured I'd chip in here as well just for posterity.

    5lb bag of aquarium gravel AND 200 small bolts, tumbled for around an hour and a quarter in the dryer on air fluff.

    The dryer was a fantastic idea, and so long as you're careful to securely pillow wedge the tank so it can not bash around there's no danger to the tank or dryer.

    I wrapped the tank in an old ratty blanket, put it in a black plastic garbage bag, THEN wedged it into the dryer.

    My results weren't nearly as good as the OP's, but I had a lot of spots of old tank liner stuck in there too left over from my MEK try.

    I found it to be fairly successful, but left a lot of surface rust. In the future, I'd only do that on a tank with large chunks of rust that need pulverising.

    Afterwards, I gave it a soak with Metal Reduce. THAT worked flawlessly and I cannot recommend it strongly enough. It's water based and non acidic - safe for rubber, hands, paint, etc. Easier to dispose of too. 2 hours saw total removal of all the rust, and the stuff is reusable too.
     
  10. Jaymo

    Jaymo New Member

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    My tank appears to have been lined at some point in time.
    It's a cream color.
    How do I remove that, and should I?
     
  11. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  12. Wintersdark

    Wintersdark Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, getting an old liner out is a pain in the ass. Mine had peeled off inside the tank and was threatening to block fuel delivery and the fuel level sensor, so it needed to come out.

    But if it's not a problem, I'd strongly recommend leaving it. It may be there to FIX a problem (small leak), and... Well, it's a terribly unpleasant task.
     
  13. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    some times it is cheaper to find another suitable tank
     
  14. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    If it's not leaking or peeling just leave it alone. Go ride.
     

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