TCI cold start stabilizer mod?

While flipping through YouTube how to videos, I came across a mod that supposedly fixes a starting issue for the Virago. I did some searches in here and didn’t find anything. Though we’ve got a million posts and I probably used the wrong keywords.
Do you guys know of a mod that puts a relay or stabilizer on the TCI to help with sending steady voltage to the starter/coils? I’m going to link the video and pic only for the purpose of my question. Does this work for my model (85 XJ700X)? Will I trash my bike by doing this?




First start is about 30seconds in
After mod start is 5:30

 

those first years of virago had a terrable starter set up.

it is sold as a serge supprosser.

I would hazard a guess it is a few surge suppressors and a few capacitors the caps store power to give you that surge of power to fire your tci and coils.
sort of like the bike battery eliminators held enough voltage to start the bikes.

your time would be better spent finding your issues. bad/dirty connections possible charging system issues and battery issues.

ignition issues from plug caps to ignition coils.


it is sold as a solution to cars with bad batterys first clue

 

I agree with @XJ550H the main feature is the surge protection. all this will do is add an extra electrical draw on your battery, and protect anything wired thorough it.
But I feel its mostly redundent, as you already have a regulator, and a protection circuit (Fuse Box) in the system.
you can still achieve this and not have to add any extra componets.

TCI, and all current factory componets get thier power from the fuse box, and has (in most bikes) a single wire supply all fuse circuits
power ( jumped to each fuse in a jumper/spliced fashion). Meaning all bike componets are techinally drawing power off the same wire.
(TCI/CDI, dash lights,relays electric guage sensors etc..) all pulling from one wire with multiple fuses tapping into it.

I recomend you seperate these into individual Dedicated Fused wires to the Coils, and another seperate fused wire to the TCI/CDI.

after that, the original power wire to the fuses will supply the rest of the bike,(like factory) and CDI/TCI will have its own as well as Ign coil/s fused power straight from battery. this will be amplified as more efficient if you upgrade the battery CCA. if bikes battery cavity will allow for larger battery.

Note: newer AGM and or Gel cell or Li-ION batterys can be higher in CCA, and smaller in actual size compared to standard Lead acid batterys.
(I run a LI-ION with "almost" twice the CCA of Lead)

You can even seperate the "starting" System, by running a larger diameter (Smaller Guage) wire to the start solenoid, and off the other side of the solenoid to the starter. this will increase the allowable amperage to the starter during start up, and allowing start motor to achieve its intended rpm much faster, and will not effect the rest of the bikes electrical since it is only used for starting.

 

FWIW the only time I ever have trouble with cold starts is the very first startup after the bike has sat all winter. The machine is stock in terms of fueling and ignition.
And by cold starts I include those clear 34º early spring days when I really need to go for a ride.

 

lol... yes like the days your still wearing a winter coat, hat and gloves just to feel the crisp air in your face...

 

problem with wiring the tci direct to battery with a fuse is the tci does a discharge if you leave the key on to long without starting it you can get one hell of a back fire when this happens. so you would have to add a switch or key . it would also make for an easy bumpstart and steal as the ignition would always be live.
maybe go direct to Ignition key output with its own new wire crimped in with the brown wire inside of the connector body to the ignition fuse .

best solution is correct what ever the issue is that is giving you a hard time on a cold start

your starter draws directly from battery through the solinoid you may be able to find a solinoid with higher current carrying specs.
or look into wether or not your starter needs to be rebuilt, or you need a new battery. these battery boilers we ride are not kind to batterys.

you could bypass the kill/run switch and other safety items as you may be getting voltage drop through them due to age/damage to contact points ect.
or replace them with new oem or find another higher current carrying relay. maybe you need a new set of coils.
I think you will find your cold start issue can be corrected if you think about the ignition system look at a wiring diagram and ID any age related parts. it could be the crimp that yamaha uses to split off of the brown wire from ignition key

look at all the systems of the bike because they all work together .

issue could be carb related, charging system, ignition system or just a few dirty connectors,

sorry for he ramble I like my 34 well a little higher may be 36 degree rides so cold starts are simple enough .

 

I gave a vague description, not an in depth "How To". I have a 10Amp (TCI) relay wired in as well as a 20Amp for the Ignition coils., and controlled by the kill switch. So no Mine will not pop fire when shut off. coils, and TCI both loose power when kill switch is flipped.

I have mabe 3 or 4 original wires, rest is brand new wiring with water proof "weatherpack" delphi (GM) pigtails.... I ran out, so one or two is deutsch connectors, but still water tight and . All wrapped into seperate harnesses, main reason, is I have worked on many a bikes im my life and seen many bikes have melted circuits, and it always melts into other circuits when all wires are gathered into one loom (Harness).

 

That's a much better reply now the poster knows he has to do more than just run a few wires to do what you suggested thank you