The heated vest project

I've put pictures here to illustrate some aspects:
http://xjbikes.com/coppermine/cat=10089.html

Right now it is -15C with a wind chill of -27C... it's not too cold to be outside, but it certainly is motivation to stay in your own workshop.

Frequently at night it gets a bit cooler on the road - not cold but definately not as warm as it could be. In the spring and fall I find even with good gear I could be a little bit warmer.

On the 250 board there is a member from quite far north in Canada who also happens to be a bit of an electronics wizz. It was his idea in the first place, this is only my version of his project that I thought I'd share for those riders who don't have heated gear and are like me on a small budget.

The story starts in Walmart where he noticed car heated seat pads ( that plug into a cigerette lighter socket) on sale for $10. At that price they just seem too useful to pass by.

Following in his footsteps I brought one myself. Using sissors and a utility knife I prepared my own heated vest. First, visualize the heating pad - there is a lower portion for your posterior, and an upper portion for your back. Between the two is simply a fabric hing with no heating wires. In this hinge are three wires - a positive to one side, a returning negative, and a third wire to confuse the rest of us

If you roll the material between your fingers you can seperate the two layers - carefully cut a small opening. Using your fingers to move the wires out of your way cut some more... until you've got a nice slit that runs from 3" off the edge on one side, across the center to 3" from the other side.

Opening up this slit you can identify the upper heating pad, the lower heating pad and the power entrance. You trim any lower than either heating pad or the power entrance. I trimmed away until I had a hole that was big enough that I could slide it on relatively easily, but not too big as to risk the integretity of the vest.

The next step is to carefully re-route the wires around the neck hole. I also put an additional zip tie on the outside to act as a stopper for the power cord - I didn't want it moving in or out of the vest.

Then - using sticky fabric tape tidy up the neck hole and ensure that the wires stay in place - away from your neck!

The next step is to collect the electrical bits you will need. Certainly you'll need a weather proof on/off switch or better yet a control unit like the one that was built for me... having an electronic wizz as friends really pays off.

I used two-prong accessory plugs to do all of my connections. They are standard so you can mix and match accessories, not too too expensive, and they are durable. I've made a connection straight to the battery to a one of these connectors. On my controller I have one connector that accepts the battery connection, and a second connector to accept the vest.

I then cut off the vests cigarette lighter adapter and installed a two pronged accessory plug there.

The final test - plug it all together and enjoy the warmth - even if it is only while sitting at your computer

In the end this was a very cheap project, that I expect will greatly improve my comfort in the tail ends of the season... with a warm body core I'll be able to stay out long past the last leaf drops... still I don't ride in the salt so I won't be an all winter biker like some of my fellow cannuks.

Cheers,
woot

 

Nice job Woot, looks real good.
I had seen his article somewhere. Do you use the hooks to fasten it or are you still in the process of adding velcro? Nice neat hole. Will you have to reinforce the hole to keep it from ripping out?
How much will it work on the charging system?

 

I'm still in the process of dealing with the vest straps... I think what I'll do is re-use the PFD style clasps and put them on thicker elastic - that way it'll be held in nicely like a vest when on, but be easier to get in and out of.

The neck hole I'm going to use fabric tape - it should adhere well enough to work - if not I'll have to hand stitch through the fabric tape to ensure it does... once you've moved the wires about inside of the vest there is alot of room to stitch - just be careful when you start cutting as the wires run through the middle, not the sides.

Whether or not the charging system will handle it. Well - I think so. It is 34 watts which is quite a load - but that is it's max rating - when turned down it shouldn't be that much of a draw. PLUS I only intend on turning it on when I'm making plenty of power ( higher RPM's and typical secondary road speeds).

I will install a voltometer to make sure I keep a charge and if I get around to it setup a warning LED light in the system when the volts drop too low. I'll then manually turn the vest off...

So - I think I'm alright for voltage, but if I have problems then I'll do the charging system mod and made install LEDs. I really think as long as I use it sparingly that I'll be fine.

Any other heated gear wearers that ride XJ's? I'm almost certain several people do...

 

I wonder could someone use an old thermostat switch like on a heating blanket or heating pad. I know thier for 120AC but wouldn't they stiil work?

 

An interesting idea... not sure - you'd have to check what it did... the voltages work, the question would be the resistance.

The blanket would be 120 V, but actually could be stepped down to 12 VDC... if that were the case then you'd be fine - it would work.

If it was actually run at 120 V AC (I'd be scared)... I don't know much about household electrics.

 

Hey Woot
I built an elect. vest from scratch. I used two vests with a wire sewn strategically in between. Thank goodness for those electric gearhead friends a guy has for doing all the calculations.
For the load rating we were able to use a simple spdt switch to alter between hi and lo. For the lo setting we soldered a "diode"on the switch that limited power to the vest without generating heat at the switch. Don't ask me exactly how that's all calculated cuz I have no flippin' clue, however, I intended this vest for snowmobiling and my electric guy designed it so it wouldn't tax the sled's electrical system much at all. The hi setting would dim the lites very slightly but only at lo RPMs. The lo setting hadn't any noticable effect whatsoever .From what I understand the sled's charging capabilities are minimal compared to that of a bike so I'm not skeered.
Now I just need to retrofit the plug t fit my XJ to get maybe another month out of a riding season

 

I choose a two-pin trailer type plug as my common accessory lead... makes it easier to switch things around - even my battery charger has the same lead.