The Wild and Woolly Adventures of a Bike Repair Noob

Thanks for the responses everyone! I seriously don't know what I'd do without you folks!

Gave the oil a "whiff" test; although the oil window already told me what had happened. A crank case full of gas. Oh well, I suppose the engine needed it to remove 38,000 miles of gunk buildup!

So, I guess the next step is to remove the carb bowls and look at the floats? Or should I just pull the rack and get down to business? (There's some loose emulsion tubes that I need to re-seat anyhow).

Any thoughts?

Thanks again everyone for supporting me in my plight.

-Erik

 

Ejpt,

What makes you think you have loose emulsion tubes? The main fuel jets screw into the emulsion tubes from the bottom and hold them in place.

Confession: Been here 1-1/2 yrs and had done everything except the shaft seals. Just completed entire rack tear down including shaft and fuel seals. Maaaaan, what a difference. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

The PO suggested that I "set" the tubes with solder since he loosened them when he was torquing down on the jets. After reading up on the tubes, it seems that using a blunt object to hold them steady while I set the jets should allow them to be held fast.

Confession: The only carbs I've ever opened up were on a lawn mower.

 

I think you can learn this, honest.

You don't go soldering on anything in the carbs; anybody giving that advice is simply way off base.

If the emulsion tubes are loose, chances are you're missing a washer, or the guy was a complete nimnul.

Go to the supermarket. Get a couple of those "disposable" aluminum baking pans, and a couple of ice cube trays.

Stop by the hardware store. Pick up some masking tape, a Sharpie, and some batteries for your camera.

Pull the rack and get serious. You're SO close; just dig in. You "weathered" valve adjustments; this is only about 3 times more complicated, honest. You wanna be a motorcycle mechanic, or just a "wannabe?" (I already know the answer.)

Mikunis or Hitachis?

 

this is exactly what i am going through right now . i have carb rebuild kits , petcock rebuild kit . all new rubber intake boots , gaskets ,2 sets of donar carbs plus one set on bike . i guess if i dont tear into it i will just keep draining out gas from crank case . can i go to harbor freight and buy kroil or do i have to special order it ? i M little worried removing the rubber boots from case using the liquid wrench i have on my bench . was hoping just fixing petcock would fix this but reading up a few posts i see prime or on , if i have gas in oil i have a bad float . can i mix match floats from doner carbs ?? will it make it hard to tune ??

 

Kroil isn't available over the counter, it's the real deal. Even Harbor only sells it online, and you'll need to make up a Company Name.

Once you do anything with the floats, you need to wet-set the float levels, and be as precise about it as possible. That is covered here: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

You are correct about your floats. If they are functioning properly, you could leave the bike on "PRI" for a week with nothing bad happening (I've done it; not recommended, but I'm getting old.)

You need to fix it. To do that without being frustrated to tears, you'll need to be careful, precise, and patient.

It's well worth it. Don't make me post a pic.

 

How is it that you seem to always hold the power to coax me into "the next step" fitz? You're a damn fine motivational speaker for sure. OK. Leaking carbs be damned and full speed ahead!!! I'm gonna' take the plunge.

Hitachis...99% sure. I'll check on them.

As far as the ice trays, is that for the Tom Collins of triumph or the Jim Jones of failure when I'm through? :lol:

Good luck on your rebuild Elk! I'll share in detail the journey that is ahead of me. Please post yours as well...Perhaps we can learn a thing or two from each other with the XJ community as our guide.

 

...save a buck on the ice cube trays and steal one of your Mums muffin trays. There is more room for parts and Mums will forgive anything, not so much with the wife. :roll: :roll:

 

Ice cube trays or muffin tins, they're for sorting and keeping track of small parts. You want to keep each carbs' bits with that carb; do NOT play mixy-match. The masking tape and Sharpie are for labeling.

 

The "plunge" is what scares the be-jesus out of most. Just remember...organization is key. Do one carb at a time; by the time you finish you will know the hats to the drain plugs and everything in between. You will also start to understand a lot of how and why the carbs function the way they do which will help you a great deal with trouble shooting later.

Gary

 

From one newbie to another I can say that it seems to be soooo daunting at first, but once you say to yourself that your gonna do it and dig in headfirst. No problem. I had no mechanical experience when I bought my max, most I had ever done was oil changes on the car. Carbs scared the hell out of me. But I just started turnin the screwdriver and taking alot of pictures and with alittle help from the guys on here (thanks again hogfiddles!!!), tada, I had the rack broken and carbs soaking in carb cleaner. Everything easily was put back together and just a few days ago I got the float levels set and soon they will be back on the bike so we can see if she barks back to life. (although im hoping for a bit more like a purr) Only advise I can say is, when you start getting frustrated and screaming obsinities, walk away and come back in a bit, or the next day. Amazingly, it will just work at that point.

 

Thanks for the amazing advice guys. Certainly priceless tips to help me along the way.

Picked up some sorting trays today and some all-purpose de-greaser. I guess I'll need to read up on the carb guides on the forum to help me get more cleaners and whatnot.

Tomorrow I'm determined to at least get the rack off the bike. I think before this bike is finished, I'll have to buy each and every one of you a beer.

 

Ej,

IF you are looking at rebuilding the carbs all the way take a look at this tutorial, great pictures and good instructions from Len.

I am waiting on a new rack that I bought to find out what kind of kit I need (how much needs to be replaced).

Good luck.

 

ejpt i am right here with you . just removed tank . will tear down tomorrow , as well as removing rear wheel to inspect brakes . let the games begin! i have 3 sets of carbs so i hope if i need any parts i already have them !

 

Hey eco, where is the link to the carb rebuild? Much appreciated bro!

Woohoo Elk! I hear the rear brakes can de-laminate and cause troubles. Mine came with an uninstalled new set for the rear. The PO said that the rear brake shoes were "fine", so he didn't install them. I think it would be wise for me to put them on just in case. I imagine it shouldn't be too tough removing the drive shaft? Probably a heck of a lot easier than removing one from a car.

Tomorrow will be a day of reckoning!

 

Ups. forgot to paste:

http://www.xj4ever.com/hitachi%20thrott ... 0seals.pdf

 

Hold the phone. You don't need to remove the driveshaft to remove the rear wheel/access the brakes. The wheel pulls away from the drive "pumpkin" it's on splines.

Aren't you working with a manual?

 

Any updates, fellas?