Thermo Switch Maxim-X 750

I discovered that the PO replaced the Thermo-Switch with a fuse.
Hence my Fan NEVER stops.
The battery would lose charge after a week of short rides!

Just read through this thread... But I'm a little confused.
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/maxim-x-radiator-fan-switch-modification-update.40133/

So the thermo-switch screws into the radiator?

What do you recommend the SW519 or the SW537 Thermo switch?
- In the diagram 15 is jumped with a fuse. So the fan is always on.
- I am looking for 13 (SW519 or the SW537)
- I believe 14 exists and is attached. What does the thermo-unit do?

 

its part of the coolant heat detection circuit and turns the fan on .

 

The things PO's do never ceases to amaze.
The thermo switch doesn't screw into the radiator, it screws into the thermostat housing that lives under the gas tank.
That link you referenced is great - has a lot of good info. I'd go with the SW519. But hey, I just noticed that you are from PEI - overheating is mainly a problem when idling in hot climates, maybe you don't have to worry too much about that? I have a couple extra stock thermo switches and I'd be happy to send you one - I won't be needing them (long story about modifying my cooling system). If you want it, 'start a conversation' with me and send me your address and I'll pop it in the mail.
The #14 that they are calling a "thermo unit" is the temperature sensor, which sends a signal to the temperature gauge.

 

Thanks Quixote,
Generous of you!

FedEx or Purolator is $40 coast to coast! ...and I've planned a solo in 2 weeks.
So I'm going to try and source a SW519 today... Might ping you if I can't find one.

Sitting at idle the bike does tend to overheat... even when it's cool out (With the fan running all the time).
Rad check, flush and fill time perhaps.

Any recommendations or "stay aways" for rad fluid brands/types?
My old Subaru was persnickety abut additives.

Cheers

 

I'll put it in the mail for you.

Actually though, there's a good chance that yours is present and works but the guy pulled the leads off and jumpered them because the fan tends to come on quite high (that's why people sometimes change to a switch with a lower switching temperature). First thing to do would be look at the thermostat housing and you'll probably see a switch with two blade connectors sticking out of it - that's where those wires go that the guy jumpered with the fuse. Put them back where they should be and maybe it will work. It doesn't matter which wire goes on which terminal.

People do get a bit anxious when the temperature needle gets close to the red but it isn't doing your engine any harm - even when the needle is close to the red, the top end still isn't as hot as the air cooled bikes get. Unless the rad actually boils over, you aren't damaging your engine. The PO might have just been nervous about seeing the needle get close to the red. Maybe he considered jumpering the leads to be an acceptable alternative to flushing the rad.

I don't have any special recommendations about coolant other than what the factory service manual says: "High quality ethylene glycol anti-freeze containing anti-corrosion inhibitors for aluminum engines. Coolant and water mix ratio 50/50".

 

Here's a picture of where those 2 wires are supposed to go:


This is a spare thermostat housing that I got from the junkyard so I could mess around with it. The bullet connector behind the thermoswitch is for the lead to the temperature gauge.

 

Good point... I'll check that,
Thanks.
Nice to see a pic too.