1. Some members were not receiving emails sent from XJbikes.com. For example: "Forgot your password?" function to reset your password would not send email to some members. I believe this has been resolved now. Please use "Contact Us" form (see page footer link) if you still have email issues. SnoSheriff

    Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

Thread size for Oil Drain bolt - XJ550?

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by 4nik8r, Feb 27, 2014.

  1. 4nik8r

    4nik8r Active Member

    Messages:
    208
    Likes Received:
    28
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    after 26 years and 50+ oil changes, the drain bolt (female) threads in the oil pan are finally worn to the point the bolt can't be properly torqued. The bolt is fine however. I want to order a tap online, but unsure of size. Manual is obscure - is it the one listed as a "strainer bolt" and therefore a M14 x 1.5 thread pitch?

    TIA
     
  2. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,751
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
    that sounds right but i'll measure it later to be sure
    but
    if the bolt is 14x1.5 a tap that size won't help, you'll have to go bigger, maybe to 16 then a tap would cost more than a used oil pan.
    tap might be around 40$
     
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,751
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Beaver Falls, PA
    oops thats a 550, i don't have one to measure
     
  4. 4nik8r

    4nik8r Active Member

    Messages:
    208
    Likes Received:
    28
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    As a "use once" item I can make do with a cheap tap - Ebay has them for under $10 with free shipping. I'm not looking to oversize the hole and bolt, just to "clean" the rounded aluminum threads and reshape them back to where the bolt bottoms firmly without spinning past them under the appropriate torque.

    you are correct though, a quality tap around that size was $35 bucks at the place I bought my spark plug hole tap.
     
  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    If the threads are so worn that you can't get the bolt tight, I don't think "chasing" the existing threads is going to help.

    You could do a HeliCoil; go to a slightly oversize drain plug; pull the pan and have the threads welded up and then re-tapped; or just eBay another less-used oil pan.
     
  6. 4nik8r

    4nik8r Active Member

    Messages:
    208
    Likes Received:
    28
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    I'll be pulling the pan to do this anyway, and the threads are very visible so I'll be able to have a good look at their condition regardless. If chasing the threads doesn't work (I'll be able to bench test for torque before re-installing the pan), then I'll likely go the weld and re-tap route. If that fails, well - red locktite has gotten me through 2 seasons already (lol) OR its a 2 hour return ride to the "local" boneyard some weekend and another $50 or so.....

    In either case, I'll think I will risk the $10 before having to source a new pan. So, is it true that the thread size is indeed M14 X 1.5 pitch?
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    Probably. Throw a thread gauge on the drain plug to confirm.

    The drain plug is common to all of the XJs and most XS's of the era, 550, 650, 750, etc., so somebody (like Mr. P.) with other than a 550 should be able to confirm for you. (I'm at work.)
     
  8. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    9,126
    Likes Received:
    1,956
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The room where it happened
    This is correct.
     
  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    19,647
    Likes Received:
    6,754
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The City of Seven Hills
    1. You need a thread repair tool to have any chance of saving the threads that are left. A chase is for cleaning crud out of good threads, and a tap is for cutting new threads. Neither of those tools will do the job that you need to do. A tap will remove material and make the threads worse than they are now. A thread repair tool is designed specifically to push the remaining material back into the shape of the original threads.

    2. If the threads cannot be salvaged there are better, and easier methods for repair than welding and retapping the hole. Any halfway decent auto parts store will carry oil drain repair plugs, which will give you a brand new steel drain plug, and steel threaded drain, for less than $6.00. It is a permanant, leak free, repair that requires no special tools beyond a handheld drill. There are also oversized, self tapping repair plugs available.

    The only reason that you might want to weld, drill, and retap would to keep the original look if you had a show bike, or had something with more value on the collector market.
     
  10. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

    Messages:
    1,818
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Australia
  11. FtUp

    FtUp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,309
    Likes Received:
    94
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    pacific northwest
    I was going to say put a heli-coil in it, but you beat me to it. the best way to go in my opinion. they are stronger than the original threads.

    CN
     
  12. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    21,283
    Likes Received:
    418
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Rural SE Michigan 60 miles N of Motown
    Or, you're Canadian. JUST KIDDING!

    I do have to agree. The "oil drain repair" option is easily do-able and a lot cheaper and easier to do; as is a Heli-coil.

    Personally, faced with the same circumstances I, (being the originality Nazi that I can be at times) would simply troll eBay and pick up another oil pan for pennies on the dollar. Being that you're pulling it anyway. Easiest solution is to bolt up a "new" one (don't forget a new o-ring for the oil level sending unit) and be done with it.
     
  13. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

    Messages:
    1,818
    Likes Received:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Australia
    mmmm given the "sight unseen" factor, you just may just end up with another "original" worn thread again though :(
     
  14. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    356
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    4nik,

    IMHO Heli-coil and forget about it.

    Roc
     

Share This Page