TIME's ride

I've been riding bikes most of my life and I've always favored Yamahas, tho I'll ride anything that runs ! I had a XJ900 in 1985--90 and I always wanted that feeling back, then I discovered Craigslist and this 750 Seca. The test drive around the block--front brake dragging, clutch "flaring" no headlight or idle. Talked price down to $700.

The next week I bought a Maxim for spares/swaps/profit? for $400.
Then I discovered XJBikes ! The knowledge and advice and encouragement I found here make me feel like I can fix almost anything on these bikes. The attitude is like "failure is not an option" you WILL fix that part.

Some wire wiggling got the headlight working. There is no start button, an extra switch turns on the running light and there's lots of tape and blue crimp connectors here and there. And the whole harness was pinched between the tank and that half circle bracket near the coils that's there to PREVENT damage and chafing! I've got wiring to do. . .

I took my calipers to a shop for a rebuild, but will get nicer ones to rebuild and install because he ^ said they were pitted. Even tho they work great now--when will they fail ?? Bike came with new "graphite" pads and braided lines. I got advice here on bleeding them.

New Avon tires--gotta have new tires--snapped the pinch bolt in the swingarm, Vice Gripped it out with spray--learned that Yamaha uses Grade 1 hardware?!?

Custom metal flake maroon with graphics detailing, not decals, signed by the painter, but spoiled by a tank dent, and I don't have a paint code.
The engine has the factory chrome package, 4 into 1 pipe, and pods. Jets are 118--stock? Feels a little flat at high speed. I plan on "borrowing" the turbo's clutch if it fits. Then 1/4 mile times edited here> 0 at 00 MPH

The Maxim carbs were cleaned first and installed on the Seca. So it went from no idle on #3 to no idle #4. I was tempted to break both racks and swap #3 in for a quick fix, but I didn't. I stuck a wire thru the pilot emulsion tube and found crud totally blocked it. Then I sprayed myself in the eyes with brake cleaner. This is an optional step that doesn't actually help the carbs. Carb cleaner doesn't sting as bad. Must be weaker.

There's a slight occilation of the whole bike at 70 + MPH that gets worse if I lean forward and goes away if I sit further back. I've read it has to do with the fork mount fairing. I'm 6'8" and 300 LB. I'd hate to think this little wiggle would turn into full on head shake above 100 MPH. I have to fix this problem for the bike to be truly enjoyed and ridden the way I want to. Any input and ideas are much appreciated.

 

I picked up the touring package from a member in Georgia and I'm trying to mount this frame mount fairing from a 1983 bike to my 1981 bike but there seems to be a piece missing.
Could someone with this fairing shoot me some pics of the mounting area near the oil cooler? Or an illustration or part number?
I might be making a custom bracket.

 

You CAN fix almost everything on the bike.

One of the reasons I love these bikes. every part is serviceable. And the information on how to do it, is just a few finger clicks away!

Along the way you might have to make a custom bracket

But looks like a good bike

 

>There's a slight occilation of the whole bike at 70 + MPH that gets worse if I >lean forward and goes away if I sit further back.
I'm guessing it's worse if you try to drive with no hands? Well, just about anything that can throw off the balance of the bike can cause it to wobble.
On a newer bike it's likely to only be the tires for shocks but on a 28 year old bike it can be just about anything. When the tires get 3-4 years old they start to wear unevenly and can cause a wobble but I've had new ones do it too if they are out of balance or molded improperly like a Dunlop Crusimax I had once. It could also be the wheel bearings, swing arm bearings or steering head bearings or worn out forks or shocks. My XS1100 started to develop a wobble when I tried to drive no hands after I had it for a while and it took me a whole year to fix it. I had to replace the tires and shocks and rebuild the forks with new springs and lower the front end slightly. Still it will wobble if there is too much weight someplace it shouldn't be on the front or rear.

 

Re:Electrical Help !! TIME's ride

I need electrical trouble-shooting help with this bike. . .
Months ago, I welded on brackets to the frame to mount the fairing, and it ran on just 2 cylinders. I had the battery disconnected, but I didn't unplug anything.
While it ran on 2 cylinders, I swapped an extra TCI - ECM box, and it ran on the same 2, so I have 2 working "brains".
I tested 3 pairs of coils on my running Seca 900- - no problem.
I ohm-ed out the pick-up coils, and a spare set - - 700 + - perfect.
It sometimes sparks on the inner 2, and sometimes I get nothing.
The battery reads 12.4 , the engine spins right over , I do my testing with a charger running , the factory fuse box is intact and clean.

The start button is missing and the red and blue wires to the right pod are severed, but I've ridden it like that for 1,500 miles, crossing the solenoid to start. I'll deal with that and the new fuse box later. I need step-by-step instructions to get me thru this ignition- - please !

 

Since your TCI and coils are good then you could have a bad connection to that coil.

Test the continuity from the TCI end to the coil end of the wires. move it around and look for intermittent connection.

 

Start with the coils and work "backward" wringing out the wiring something got melted somewhere I bet.

 

After hours of swapping parts and testing circuits, I bought a wire harness off "The Bay" for $15. While unhooking the bad harness, I found a pin bent over in the headlight area, crossing a circuit, also 2 identical connectors crossed over- - different wire colors. The 3 wires from the alternator- - 2 were burnt to toast. Lesson learned. . . haste makes waste.
After welding on the fairing, a friend and I re-connected the harness in the dark just so I could drive the bike onto the trailer.

The motor needed to come out to install the airbox. I was thinking of installing the Turbo 650 motor (sans turbo) as it only has 2,400 miles, but it would be gutless and feel like a 500 maybe? Then there's the spare Seca 750 motor with only 20,000 miles on it.(untested) I need the alternator wiring at least, the "new" starter from the Turbo, and the Turbo's clutch. I should spin this motor and do a compression test.

I even found cut and spliced wires at the tail light. (I hate wiring).
Next job is painting the frame. Anyone ever get rid of the frame tabs behind the oil cooler to improve airflow?

 

Tabs behind oil cooler removed, color-shift paint applied, fairing brackets drilled.

 

You, sir, win the internet for today. I literally laughed out loud. Good show!

 

i've had carb cleaner in the eye before but never brake cleaner. i wear goggles now when cleaning the carbs. also while cleaning pistols but thats a different forum.

 

The pic above was taken at a slightly different angle than this one, the frame changes from black, to green, to purple with a touch of gold !!

 

To install and remove an engine by yourself without scratching the paint or straining your back, or buying lots of beer for your friends, I built a Motor Loader that balances the motor, suspended from the ceiling. It swings the motor into or out of the padded frame with a pendulum motion. Copywrite 2/28/2009.

 

XJer's are ingenious!

 

IT'S ALIVE !! First ride in a year !

I found a tight intake that showed .004 with the cam pointing "square away" from the shim, but when rotated around, but before engaging the lobe, the clearance went down to .0015 . This resulted in a 100 PSI reading, and now it's 147 PSI. Big difference ! All 4 are between 145- 150.

I put 120 jets in- - why did it have 118's ?? !! :roll: floats tweaked, carbs wet-tested on the bench, used YICS tool that Polock gave me (thanks again!) used my 4 tube Manometer and ColorTune. Plugs are a dark tan, I will SLOWLY and incrementally lean it out as I drive it.

The 4 to 1 exhaust was packed with metal drywall screen and fiberglass mat rolled-up; one just behind the clamp, one in the end of the megaphone, and it runs quiet now! I'll put some miles on it naked until I'm pretty much done working on the engine. And I fixed the starter- - bad solenoid and no start button, everything else worked on the "new" harness. 8)

 

Here's a link to my custom fairing and "TourPack" luggage installation.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17404.html

My "to-do" list is getting shorter:
- paint the touring stuff to match the bike- - including the custom graphics.
- install the harbour freight airhorn
- a better fuel filter and sediment chamber
- a custom seat
- go thru the brakes yet again, add missing front brake switch
- headlight modulator
- finally install the "turbo" clutch

The bike got 46 MPG recently, up from a worst of 32 MPG from a while ago.

 

Hey All,
Today's my 2 year XJ Bikes Anniversary !

The Avon Roadriders I bought new 2 years ago have drywall cracking as if they are 6 year old tires, and I don't just leave the bike in the sun!
The steering bearings "hung up" a bit in a corner, like someone grabbed the handlebars, so no more riding until the new head bearings go in.
43,464 Miles.

 

Yikes!
It's the time to work on 'em now anyway.

 

That's my 900 Winter Project, too.

Headset Bearings.

Along with: Timing Chain and Swing-Arm Bearings.

 

Three year update: 46,507 miles (3,000 the past year)

I pulled the bike apart for paint on the touring accessories. Dupli-Color Red Metallic (75 WA8919) is just a bit darker than the bike's paint. Two layers of clear to give me some material to polish. One of the saddlebag hinges needs to be fabricated (heck, I'd buy one, if possible)

I bought 650 carbs for $13.00 on E-Bay (best deals in the dead of winter) poked the hidden jets and passages with a guitar string and bread wrap/tie wire, polished the various works, "borrowed" the 750 jets, including the air jets, and piston sliders/needles/diaphragms. My bike has developed a creeping/hanging idle due to worn throttle shaft seals, and I gambled (correctly) that the 650 carbs would work. They are already on, ColorTuned, and sync'ed with my 4 Tube Manometer.

Clutch - Yes, you can ride 10,000 miles on a slipping clutch,
Since I still have parts bikes, I replaced the clutch plates from a spare motor.

Seat - I shaved the little "hump" from a spare seat, and covered it with some tan vinyl. Tan doesn't get as hot in the sun. I keep a "perfect" seat in the garage.

Rear turn signal bracket from Chacal's amazing stash of parts.

Valve lash check and other major maintenance while the bike is apart.

Dismantled and painted the inside of the "Atari" and added LED's