tips for removing float pivot pins ?

anyone got any ?

3 out of four on my Bs 32 mikunis are stuck fast and my ham-fisted attempts to drift them out are, I think, making matters worse (peening the aluminium support) - all suggestions welcome. I am resisting breaking the rack but for how much longer I cannot say.


Cheers

james

 

i never did a mikuni but imagine they break just like a hitachi. as your working on them keep saying, out loud, "don't break the post". put your drift away, far away.
now those pins will spin long before they slide out so you need to make them spin. is there a bit sticking out you can grab and spin? don't pull it just spin. if not is the float part that wraps around the pin
able to be pried open enough to unwrap it from around the pin. if you can do that then spin the pin and put brake cleaner on the posts until it spins easily, then spin and pull.
you can re-wrap the float back on the pin but you can't un-break the post

 

I use an automatic center punch on Mikuni float pins.

It gives them a sharp rap without breaking the posts.

 

MiCarl has the correct answer, works like a charm (doesn't hurt to hit the pins with some penetrating lube beforehand, either).

 

I used a sharp chisel to get under the heads and pry them away from the posts. worked like a charm.

CN

 

Here's what I did. You'll need to go a few pages in, but basically I put a piece of metal between the two pillars.

http://www.xj4ever.com/mikuni carb cleaning.pdf

 

Thanks guys. No breaks yet but I was conscious of this possibilty so I appreciate the stern warnings.
Think I will try and get some 'twist 'n' pry' working now they have had a night with penetrating oil on.

 

Ok so filed back the peened end and then I tried levering (sharp chisel bashed with palm of hand between pin head and pillar) - no dice still not enought material to grip with my thinnist pliers. Cannot unpeel the float hinge as it appears to be welded or soldered all way around. Used some sharp side cutters between pin-head and pillar to 'eat' some more space for pliers to grip. Left to go to work with penetrating fluid applied.

Why do we do this??

 

It sounds like your going to have to completely rebuild the carbs anyway so I would soak the carb bodies in carb cleaner or kroil oil until the rust is dissolved.

May take a couple of days.

Also with this, any rubber seal, o-ring, piece is history and will have to be replaced.

Possibly if you have access to a sonic cleaner big enough to handle the carb, that might work.

You might also look for a machine shop in your area and have them take a look.

 

I probably got the idea from you in the first place.......

 

Thanks - will try the auto-punch next I think.
@ BruceB no rust pins are stainless in aluminium carb body..

 

One tip: When the pin breaks loose it'll fly far. Throw a rag over the head or keep your hand cupped around it.

 

Yeah ! the auto-punch wins it - fantastic !! And only 4 quid from Screwfix on my way home from work.

 

Mikunis on my GsXr the Pins Only Go In / Out One Way, Just Check as The One You Got Loose May be Slack.

 

That may be so, however a bike that has sat, with the possibility of water in the carbs or another material must have generated enough corrosion and or mineral build up around the pins. Could be varnish material from the gasoline itself. That is why I suggested what I did.

 

No worries I appreciate all the comments and suggestions - as it goes I do have rust on the float valve retaining screw - my next problem..

Cheers

j

 

another vote for the auto centre punch, (go mine from screwfix too) file the sharp point down a little first so it doesn't peen the end out, block up the bottom float pin post and ------- one press and the pin fired out the bottom, brill suggestion from MiCarl.
stu