To-Do List...Prioritized

Ok all,

You guys (and gals) got me a bit nervous with all of this talk on rear brake lockups and front brakes not working that I am officially not going to ride my bike until I check both out. Its a 81 750 Seca that I just purchased from a guy who did ride it actively for about 300-500 miles a year for the past 4-5 years. I highly doubt he did anything w/ the brakes though....

So.... That sucks, thanks a lot. First time I got back to riding in 10 years, and I only put 94 miles on her ;-P

So how does this listing sound (from a safety angle and from a preventative angle)?

--STOP RIDING-- (small whimper and some sobbing)
-Complete rebuild/redo of front and rear brakes. With braided lines if I can afford them (moneys a wee bit tight)
-While apart, check wheel bearings

-START RIDING AGAIN- (and the crowd goes wild!)
-Check valve clearances, replace gasket and rubber washers (small oil leak) and shim as needed
-Rebuild carbs (already have all the new parts for a rebuild)
-Replace carb boots (yes they are cracked through. I have some that I did up w/ liquid electrical tape that should work nicely)
-Get everything sync'd up and pretty (already have yics tool, colortune, etc.)
-Replace current petcock w/ one from chacal that is not vacuum fed (already have. no issues just as a precaution)
-Replace fusebox (its solid, i checked, but again as a precaution)
-Spin-on Oil Filter
-Covert system over to LED (blinkers, tach, taillight, HID headlight etc..)
-Install 12v power plug for GPS etc..

Somewhere in there throw some saddlebags on, or at least mount up some ammo cans ;-)

What everyone think? That a good order, anything major I am missing? I put everything other then the brakes after 'START RIDING' as she runs ok now (a little lean), so i don't see a safety risk from these tasks.

thanks!

 

you forgot the last one... give it to me as a gift.

 

LOL

I also forgot the very first one: Get wife's permission

;-)

 

Depending on the mileage on the bike, I'd move the valve clearance check up to the top part too, unless you know PO kept them up...

 

Well, I just did a compression test and the dry numbers were ok and fairly close across the board. Is there a specific reason that might be a safety issue? (still a mechanical noob, but I learn quick ;-P )

I did forget to add in a spin-on oil filter too, so i just updated that ;-)

 

How important is it (from a safety standpoint) to check/flush the front fork oil (and the anti-dive) on this bike?

 

Ok,

So I got my rear brakes done - no problems. Well, one of the bolts sheered upon reassembly, but I was able to get it out and take a spare off of my parts bike, so that's all good.

Quick question on that, do you have to re-torque the rear castlenut after a certain number of miles?

Also, complete aside. I've read several dozen threads (if not more) on oil type and weight for the crankcase. But there seems to be a little back and forth on what is or isn't good. I've been riding around, temps ranging from 45+/- to 80+/-. I figured that I should probably use 20-40(50). I'm currently running 10-40 right now but my engine sounds almost tinny (could be my own perception, not sure). So I thought a little heavier oil might help.

What does everyone think of this oil? Its a full synthetic, but is specifically says its good for wet clutches. Plus it states that it meets Jaso MA requirement's, which I've read is pretty much essential for a wet clutch.

Thoughts?

--josh