Tractor info.

ok, technically the Hangout Lounge is for "intros and everything else motorcycle related" , not bacon.
But in some weird way everything can circle back and reference to motorcycles (and bacon).

Take for example the tractor I just bought, it is a Leyland 270, built somewhere's between 1972 - 75. It's got a non-stock bucket on it (kinda like putting pods on an XJ) and she is half painted Leyland blue and half painted Ford blue, wife doesn't like it.

Got it to the farm, started to cut some overgrown pasture, noticed the automatic draft sensing doesn't seem to work proper. Went to bed, got up early to keep cutting (and riding the new Toy) and noticed several leaks before starting off. Ass-u-me the leaks are lowering the hydraulic fluid level and probably jeaprodizing the systems integrity.

So there she is, a mechanical tool/ toy that is going to challenge my maintenance skills but also reward me with super low end torque.

I DO have a repair manual and need to go through all of the basic maintenance items, re-establish basic control settings, etc. all the while assuming that the PO did nothing correct . . . Just like an XJ.

My wife already caught me 'rubbing on it', and can tell that I am pained when I can't ride or wrench in her. . . Just like me and my XJ.

Here's the crux of this post; as mentioned I have the repair manual and believe I can figure most of the stuff out . . . hydraulics are a new realm but it is kinda like plumbing with a whole lot more PSI. I also need to stop giggling when I see in print that I should 'turn the fastener anti-clockwise to remove'. While I am awaiting for the operator manual to arrive I was wondering if anyone here can offer any sage tractor advice to a newbie tractor owner (I'm quite sure there was a tractor in the background of the carb clinic - hint, hint).

I already learned that it is a tractor and not a rock pile crawler.
Anything else I should know?

 

http://www.surpluscenter.com
This place might come in handy

 

Simple.
RTFM.
Bailiing wire IS an acceptable repair material.
Any implement dealer can make you new hydro lines, and usually it will be less than ordering from somwehere.


I agree that the hydro leaks are keeping the draft from adjusting automatically. If you still have that problem after the leaks are gone then your next thing to look at is the balancing valve (not sure on a Leland where that is, or even if it is a single unit like on an IH).

Looking at the wheels I'd suspect that they may have (or had) some calcium chloride in them for ballast. Might want to break a bead and have a look at the rims to see if the inside is corroded too

 

Thanks for the replies . . .
Yes I am reading like a librarian and found some sound advice on the leveling valve on an on-line forum.
Fluid filled tires, which is a requirement for ballast as our 33 acres are rather hilly.

Already have my wife telling me that the tractor is turning into an obsession just like my XJ.
I calmly explained that our investment needs to be properly maintained and that will require both time and money invested into it!
Showed her the scheduled maintenance item list in the manual and told her that I MUST go through this and verify that items are in spec/ up to date. You can never trust a PO!

 

Also a requirement for a loader, but you can choose what fluid to use. I once saw an otherwise sound looking wheel come apart on a fella while he was carrying a bucket full of dirt. Thankfully he was on level ground.

You're absolutely correct about maintinanace. I live seeing old iron working.

 

Careful K-moe, I have a ton of questions and I feel more coming. I did sign up on the Leyland/ Nuffield tractor board.

What other fluid options are there?
Should I squirt a little fluid out and taste it?
Or maybe let it dry and see if there is white residue (chloride) after it dries. . . .

 

RV Antifreeze was pretty popular a few years back. Beet juice is another good alternative. Neither is as heavy as Calcium Chloride, but neither one will rot your wheels out either.




Wheel weights or suitcase weights (or old batteries in a box hung off of the drawbar) will make up the difference.

 

I have a 1952 Ferguson TO30. Those new-fangled tractors from the 70's baffle me.
And my mom told me if you keep 'rubbing on it', you'll go blind. Explains why I need glasses.

 

I know. Where are the starter/generators on those things anyway?
One day I'm gonna get me a steam tractor. Simplify things a little.

 

I just recently replaced the whole steering casting on my Allis Chalmers WC. Turns out that while they were made incredibly solid, they apparently weren't build to stop a runaway tractor. Well, maybe they were -- it stopped it. Maybe they weren't designed to not break when it stops head-on against a tree near the bottom of a slope. The land for the bottom bearing broke out. Fortunately I had a good assembly in my parts tractor!