Trying to avoid starter clutch rebuild...

On my 1983 XJ750 I've rebuilt the starter ($18 kit), replaced the starter solenoid ($15 with shipping)...still having problems with start up. If I park it next to my charging stations (I have one at work and one at home), it has enough power to crank up and go, but if it is just a little bit lower than fully charged the starter just spins.

My local bike shop has tons of experience, and I trust him completely when he told me that I'm going to have to split the motor and inspect, and probably replace the starter clutch, springs, and rollers...just wondering...is THERE ANYTHING ELSE I CAN DO TO AVOID THIS?!?!?! LOL I have read the motor split post by CDS1984 over and over, I can definitely do it...but then I'm going to be waiting on parts, and gasket sets, and I'm not going to be able to ride for a week...

Anyone got anything else to try before I undertake a weeklong blow up and probably breakdown and cry because I can't ride?

 

sounds to me more like battery is not holding its charge enough to give the starter motor full power.
1 have you had the battery load tested?
2 have you checked the charging voltage of the alternator?
stu

 

What oil is in it? Synthetics seem to aggravate the starter clutch in these bikes.

 

I took the bike over to him yesterday, he did a load test on the battery, took one listen the starter kick over and pronounced starter clutch gone bad. I'm about to head home and do some sleuthing under the alternator cover. It would be nice if it was something simple.

 

100% non synthetic. I learned my lesson about synthetics and these bikes already. Loaned it out to my best friend who needed a way to get to work and back, he put full synthetic in with all good intentions...2 weeks later I had to replace the transmission clutch. Wet clutches need friction, lesson learned after an $80 clutch and an hour of unnecessary wrenching.

 

The only things that you can do will delay the need to rebuild the starter clutch. It seems to me that the workarounds, and diagnosis have already been done.

Assuming that the bettery is indeed in good condition (please take it to an aotu parts store for free testing to confirm) then you can either do the job, or practice bump starting it (they bump start easily in warm temperatures).

 

Been bump starting it now and again when the starter clutch acts goofy. Got a nice long weekend to attack this bad boy...it will be a good time to paint the frame, reoil the front forks, put a little chrome trim on my newly painted tank, clean the carbs, replace plugs and wires, holy crap I've got a lot to do...

Edit: got the chrome door trim idea from the Maximus build in the showcase

 

+1.

Gary H.

 

Curious how long has it been since you synthetic oil in there. It is not uncommon for a starter clutch to slip after changing back to petroleum oil. I have seen them slip into the second change and be fine at the third change. I would change the oil just to see.

 

you should always check the full system before picking up a wrench.

battery (and charging system), solenoid and starter switch , starter. clean connections to all wires involved

 

It's been acting better last couple rides...buying Rotella 15w - 40 right now and doing a quick oil and filter change see if it'll keep acting nice for me

 

Y'all got a good link for alternator checks and trouble shoots? Haven't found any yet

 

try this one ,its fairly universall, but should work on xj's
http://members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/fault_finding.pdf?COLLCC=2228272982&
stu

 

or this


sorry for language

 

Fresh Rotella T and it's acting beautifully for me. We shall see what tomorrow brings.

 

That flow chart is super helpful. Thanks. I'm getting 14.6 V at 2500 rpm, 15.01 at 5000 rpm. Regulator gone bad? Which harness do you check the voltage from in diagram D of this chart? I hate to sit here and ask every step of the damn way but if it saves me money, and the resource is here, why not use it?

 

I just reread the flowchart either fix the connection or replace the regulator sounds like the next step in the puzzle

 

Probably not. 14.9 is the high side of what the regulator should allow, but that does not account for the possability that your meter may be off a bit. You can check your meter with a regulated power supply, or just figure that everything is OK and see how the battery holds up (or borrow another meter to compare).

 

If it keeps going higher, yes..... You're about to the limit where you'll start blowing lights and fuses if it goes too much more. If if stabilizes there, you're ok.

 

I just adjusted the turboencabulator to optimal modial resistance

 

That is my favorite training video