Turn Signals, Brake light shorted out?

So, I got a new left hand switch from Gamuru for my bike so I could use my hi-beams. I recently installed it and a new 55/60 halogen sealed beam unit.

All worked pretty much fine for a week or so until the other day, when the bike's signals, brake light, and neutral light stopped working. Function returned intermittently over the course of my commute that day, but was off more than working. Head and tail light still functioned, as did Hi-Beam.

I popped the lamp off, re-connected the unit, and got function back- for five minutes. IN the sprit of troubleshooting, I switched the unit back out last night to my old one, moving the hi-beam thumb toggle over to my old unit in the process. Still no functionality of turns or brakes. Hi beam light on my instrument panel still functions, though I lose the green neutral light when this problem is in effect. Fuses are good. I recently replaced my front left blinker and it came with two wires (opposed to my single wired stock piece), one presumably a ground wire. To my shame I must admit I only taped the alleged ground wire up with electrical tape upon discovering that it appeared to work just fine like that. COULD this be my mysterious problem? I have another suspect, which I will be investigating further over the next couple of days. Inside the lamp housing, right near the headlight socket, there is an ugly home electrician rat's nest of wiring wrapped in electrical tape. it has clearly been inexpertly slapped together and I am highly dubious of it. Up to now it has not been a problem, but with maybe 5k on the bike since I got it back in May, it's possible I have cooked something hiding inside that mess by now. Maybe my new bulb heated it up more than my old stocker. Either way it needs to be addressed. Bike still starts and runs fine on first try every time.

Side note- my tach does not, and has never lit up. Instruments are replacement units I got at Bent Bike, because my old tach did not work. New gauges are functional and speedo lights up.

*I replaced my stock fuse panel with inline Buss blade type fuses about a month ago.

 

Why do I have the urge to run screaming from the room?

You've got a lot going on there, for sure. I can say the ground wire on the new turn signal needs to be hooked up. That's a given.

The wad of wires that looks suspect probably is. I'd tear into it to make sure it's all sound. Heat and a tight fit always makes for a bad combination.

Coincidentally, I believe all of those items you've listed are on the same fuse. I'd double check your connection as the fuse holder you installed. It may have wiggled loose.

 

LOL I'm doomed.

Thanks Gamuru I know your switch is good at least. What do you suggest I wire that ground off to? I didn't when I got it because I wasn't certain what part of the bike counted as grounded..

 

I'm interested in this too, as i've got an intermittent ground-fail on my left rear turn singal. A bandaid would be awesome while I find the real cause! I hate rollin around without left turn singals .... feels like askin to get rear-ended.

 

You could drop a ground wire down from the headlight bucket for the front turns. If I remember correctly, there's a ground in there you could hook up to. As for the back signals, a large ring terminal secured under the turn-signal-to-frame-bolt should work just fine.

 

I got replacement lights from partsnmore. They came with 1157 bulbs and a socket for the dual filament lamps. Two wires of course, but neither is a ground. One is signal and the other is running light.

I was using them on the rear which requires a ground lead. I ended up switching the sockets and wires from the OEM lights into the replacement units.

 

It occured to me to do that switch out as well but those bits are long gone now and were hammered anyway...

Lol We will figure this out keep the knowledge coming guys!

 

Sounds like you're stuck with the 1157 bulb.

One of the leads on the new lamp needs to go into the turn signal connector on the harness. I don't remember how they're color coded, you'll have to sort out which one drives the brighter filament.

Make sure the case of the signal is grounded. Might not hurt to make sure the socket is grounded to the case.

You will need to insulate the remaining lead, or tie it into the tail lamp circuit and use the running light.

 

PICS of the situation...

The thing under the electrical tape:



Inside the Bucket:



Blinker wires: