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Two 1982 Seca 750 Overhauls.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by KrS14, Mar 7, 2011.

  1. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Sorry I didn't get more pics, but I forgot my real camera at home lol.

    Crap, forgot the flikr link lol:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/krsthis/55 ... 215591210/

    We started the tear down for the winter overhaul of both bikes: My buddy Dezi's, and my 1982 Seca 750's.

    Dez doesn't need to do much, new choke cable, LED signal conversion, and paint. Plus whatever little things we may have to get that have worn out.

    I WAS going to take mine down to bare frame to repaint, but after getting a lot of the parts off, the paint on the frame is actually really good. Almost 0 rust spots, so i figured i'd just tear down what i know i needed to check/make better and stopped there.

    What i've got planned so far:

    *I need to redo my front forks/calipers/anti-dive REALLY bad. Pistons look new thank god, just needed to clean em out/lube/new seals.

    *Losing the front fairing cause it rattles and vibrates WAY too much.

    *Getting new handlebars, and losing the covered Seca ones so i can get a windshield (Spitfire prolly)

    *New big bore master cylinder for bars, losing the Seca - Behind the Headlight (c) Master Cylinder.

    *New Brake lines direct from new M/C to calipers *** If anyone has done this conversion i'd love to get your lengths that worked on the new lines.

    *LED's in the Atari (Yes i'm keeping it) As well as new LED turn signal housings and bulbs. LED brake/running lights. (Auto cancel going bye bye)

    *New rubber front and back, Spitfires for sure.

    *Cleaning out / lubing the rear brakes and checking for delam. again.

    *NEW Exhaust from cylinders to muffler. I'd like to do a 4 to 2 but i'll have to see what's available. I may just get headers, and grab some take-off sportster muffs from an HD dealer.

    *Seat recovered / new padding.. not 100% on what i want for pattern, stock layout or something different.

    *Install the new fusebox from Len.

    *Install the spin on oil filter conversion kit.

    *Get Dez to cut some vinyl for tank Yamaha tuning forks emblem, side cover Seca 750 Logo (ditching the old plastic ones) Prolly just black vinyl.

    *Throttle shaft seals for carbs, choke plunger nuts (the brass ones that are all fubar'd), Bicycle tube/Liquid Elec. Tape the intake manifolds. (Cracked, but not all the way through)

    *YICS Port cleaner and block off tool.

    *Colortune and Carbtune.

    *New headlight housing

    *New side mirrors

    ***Paint... this is where i'd love your input guys. I'm thinking of going with House of Kolor:

    http://www.houseofkolor.com/speedshapes ... himrin.jsp

    Designer Pearl - PBC50 - Cocoa Pearl.

    On all plastics/tins.

    *Major engine clean/polish

    Hopefully this is all i'll need to do. When i'm done i should have, basically, a new bike :)

    Will take my camera next time for better pics :)
     
  2. padre

    padre Member

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    I think you have a very ambitious plan of attack. I think that a pair of clubman bars flipped will give you closer to the stock look with a little more pullback/without the lame stock plastic covers. You can use foam hot water pipe insulation (available in black or grey) to cover them and give them a beefier look. It's easy to work with and very cheap (Home Depot/Lowes' etc.) I cut down a used HD windshield narrowed to a tombstone shape and mounted it right onto the bars using U bolts. (but used gp/touring medium rise bars with 2" foreward offset risers because I'm 6'3" w/35" long arms)
    I cut my seat down to solo size and used marine vinyl (avalible in many colors) from a fabric store (Jo-Annes) over a (used) tuck and roll Harley Sportster seat cover panel, carpet padding and a stanley t-50 staple gun. I coppied the Sportster design with the Yamaha seat pan and used a crochet hook to pull pre threaded buttons all the way through the materiel and padding and only had to drill small holes bottom of the seat pan. Upholstery padding is just too soft for a motorcycle seat. I had to hand stitch the back of the seat, using thread intended for carpeting where he materiel folds back, down and under. I regret using stainless steel buttons though, they get HOT in the sun, ouch!
     
  3. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Ok... I thought bleeding Seca brakes sucked... It took Dez and me 3 Hours to get my old fork seals out.

    Pics on my flickr link in first post.

    Had to PRY and deform the old seals out enough that they would finally let go of the lower forks. We tried deep creeping them for all last week, thought that would do it. Then we tried heat, enough heat it was boiling the deep creep, no luck.

    So i started jamming a screwdriver down the sides of the seals and had to pry em out. i'll have to clean up the lowers now of course, but i don't think they're so bad that they'll leak with new seals and dust wipers.

    Not sure, but i think the Teflon bushings may need to be replaced too. They look a little... well.. old... heh like 30 years old.

    Paint may happen this week, parts will hopefully be ordered with Len this week.

    Hope there's no more snaffu's lol
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    There's no need to be kind to Fork Seals.

    I grind a Pointed "Scoop" on the Tip of a Old Round Phillips Screwdriver.
    I drive the Tool between the Fork Tube and the Seals O-D.
    Pry the Seal away from the Tube.

    Grab the Seal with Needle Nosed Vice Grips and Twist it around like opening a 25 year old can of SPAM with an opening Tee-Tool.
     
  5. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Ya i wasn't worried at all about the old seals, but i was trying SO hard, not to scrape the crap outta the lower lol.

    Redid the fuse panel as well, forgot to mention that. It was hard to work with the already castrated original wires. I had to mount the panel closer to the harness than i'd like, but it all reached fine in the end.

    Pulled the rear wheel off too, everything was a ok, cept one thing. The shaft that expands the shoes was REALLY dry in the hub, bearing grease fixed that issue up :) Shoes are like new! almost no wear, no delam.
     
  6. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Uhg, tried to strip the paint off everything this weekend.. what a PITA!

    We had some Tal-Strip to use on the tank and front fender. Took at least 3 coats to get everything off (2 layers on fender, 3 on gas tank)

    Could be because it was cold out, and that's why it didn't work so well. I finally gave up and thought it would be easier to just pay the painter to prep it, than waste my time and patience to do it all :) Plus the painter said, he'd rather we leave a little paint on for him to prep than try to make it spotless and do something wrong.

    I've come to the conclusion, that in another life, I was a mechanic.. and NOT a painter lol.

    Parts should hopefully come in from Len this week, and paint should be done in 2 weeks or so. Then the fun of reassembly :) *rubs hands together*
     
  7. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Parts from Len should be here in the next few days, and hopefully paint will be done by this weekend *fingers crossed*

    BUT I'm off to Whistler BC, for some vacation time, won't be able to work on the bike till i get back. Everything should be done/here by then anyways.

    DOH! Note to self: Need to source that new exhaust, and get new tires still.

    Anyone ever dealt with xs650direct up here in Canada?
     
  8. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Little update, got everything from Len and started to slowly put stuff in order Sunday.

    Both bikes have had full caliper kits installed (4 kits). Used small brass wheel on a dremel to get the grooves clean. Wow does the crud ever build up in there.

    Installed new starter solenoid in my bike.

    Installed the new throttle shaft seals in all my carbs, the old ones felt fine, but they did look like they were wore out. (too big a center diameter)

    Cleaned up the outside of the carbs with deep creep/brush, and a carb cleaner rinse (from can, not dunked). They look almost like new now!

    Brought the wheels home for new rubber sometime soon.

    Haven't heard anything about exhaust yet, hopefully this week early on.

    Horn mounted, need to get the forks on before i can do wiring.

    Hopefully paint will be done soon as well.

    That's all for now :)
     
  9. LoDollarDave

    LoDollarDave Member

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    Hi Kr, your to-do list looked so much like mine did not long ago that I just had to chime in - have fun with your build, you're gonna really love it when you're done!
    Quick notes:
    -The oiled fabric strip tied into appropriate size knots trick works well for blanking off the YICS passage during synching, just in case you dont want to source or make your own Yammy style tool.
    -Teflon fork bushings were available from the stealerships as few as 2 years ago (when I did mine), and were actually priced within reason, although I should've checked to see if Chacal stocked 'em - sorry Len! Made a HUGE difference, almost eliminated the stiction I was experiencing.
    -P80 grit paper (get the good stuff by-the-sheet from a body shop supply place like Carlsons) on a hand block makes short work of even multi-layer or epoxy paints - this is usually the way shops do small jobs like tanks and fenders. Neat color - HOK always has eye-popping shades!

    Good Luck!
     
  10. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I didn't see "Check and adjust valve clearances"

    Or "rebuild carbs, set float levels, bench sync"

    on the list anywhere.
     
  11. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Already done fitz :) I did all that last year.

    BUT I did get new throttle shaft seals, so resync will be done.

    There's some things on that list i'm not doing now (handlebars for example) It was just getting WAY too expensive. (600 for paint, 250 or so for tires, plus a 600+ dollar order with Len.

    Oh.. exhaust as well lol, this bike better last me 10 years after all this money dumping ha!
     
  12. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    So I came to a few conclusions yesterday.

    First, if the screw shears itself off when trying to remove it, the easy out will 99.9% always break if you try to use one.

    Second conclusion... It really sucks when you pound your lower fork bushing in before putting the chrome inner/dampening rod back in first.

    Third conclusion... I HATE copper crush washers... and their tendency to go missing...

    Off to get more little things for this project.
     
  13. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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  14. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Nice! Well done!
     
  15. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Tomorrow is reassembly day for both bikes. Everything is ready cept my headers.

    Hope all goes smoothly :)
     
  16. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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  17. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    BAH!!! No headers available used, so new MAC 4-1 Chrome into Black has been ordered.

    Hopefully it'll be in Thursday. Then this weekend all will be done, and running, ready to go home.
     
  18. Robbietravels

    Robbietravels New Member

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    I'm loving that color. Keep up the work and you'll be riding the wind soon.
     
  19. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    One month wait for MAC exhaust. The ONE supplier in Canada doesn't keep stock on these things apparently... :(
     
  20. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Got word today that my exhaust should be in on Tuesday.... wow... MAC musta been outta stock and had to make a fresh one for me...


    Two... and a half... months.....


    wow...

    will update after i get it on with more pics :)
     

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