Vacuum leak? crazy rpms, and now it won’t start.

could you elaborate on where you put the cards? Are they feeling drag from the movement of butterfly valves?

 

You put one each of the cards under the butterfly plates , adjust the synch screws till there is a drag by pulling on the card .

 

I ended up using a paper clip for mine and had done it that way. When I put the carbs back on and it didn’t work someone suggested turn the mixture screw out as a possible solution. Turns out it was fuel levels that were the issue and now I have to mess around and undo the mistake.

 

You don’t have to play the card game OR use paper clips

1. Set carb 3 with the butterfly juuust on the back edge of the hole at the top of the butterfly.use the idle screw to do that
2. Now, use the sync screws to adjust the other three to the same spot.
(3. I snap the linkage a dozen times at this point)
4.back the idle screw out until carb 3 hole is covered HALFWAY
5. Double check that the other three are also half way. Now fine adjust until all are half covered after snapping again several times.

you are now bench-synced. It took you longer to read this than it takes you to do it. It usually takes about 1 minute to do.

I haven’t used paper clips or cards in years. It takes longer to get the clips unfolded and inserted, or pieces of cards cut and inserted than it does to just do it the way I described.

dfox

 

which hole? there are three...

 

Hello ladies and gents, finally got the wet levels set and a decent benchsync, the bike started up!!!! my new issues are that I sometimes get a single click from the solenoid when I try to start it up. other times the engine turns over. my plan for that is to rebuild the starter but I am unsure how to test connections and resistance and grounding??? so there is that fun new learning opportunity, any links for good walk-through s would be much appreciated. my next issue is that when the bike starts up it only starts on choke and revs up to 3-6k but can slowly be brought down, but dies if I take the choke off... am I supposed to sink the carbs while the choke is on? do I mess with the idle screw while the choke is on? any advice on this issue will also be much appreciated! thanks in advance. getting this far on my own work and everyone's advice has been a real satisfying feeling!!

 

Sounds like there are some clogs somewhere yet

 

like in the carbs? any recommendations on how to test?

 

I blow air with my mouth to verify air is moving through. Yes the passages are tiny, but you can feel it. A tiny open passage feels different than no air moving at all. Before all that, there is plenty of soaking, cleaners, compressed air.....

Upon first hit of compressed air, you can also see any carb spray still in passages get blown out.

If I can see, feel, and hear the compressed air going through, I know it’s clear. If I can’t see, hear and feel ALL THREE, I don’t reassemble until I CAN. THEN I know all passages are clear. Time-consuming?? Yup, but I wanna make DARN sure that a rack is totally clean and clear before continuing.

 

I did everything, short of using an ultrasonic cleaning. I soaked all parts, used an air compressor, I shouldn't need to break the rack down at least then. back to the board then. so when that is fixed ideally how should the bike be running when I start it?

 

It should start and run well enough that you can get it to warm up and idle on its own without the enricher on. You may have the idle a bit higher than you want at first, but get it to idle without the choke. THEN do the running sync after it’s warmed up.

 

Thank you! It’s been too long since it has run properly!

 

Make sure the jet in the enrichment well in the float bowl is clean, with a wire.

 

That's exactly what I am going to be doing next, buying a wire set from chacal and going through the carbs again.

 

checked the starter motor and it works, so it must be in the wiring!

 

Gotta lock auto correct ( blocked petrooster) made my day!