valve adjustment measurements xj550 1982

So I am going to ask the same old question that just about everyone on here has asked about the feared "Valve Clearance Adjustment" I just meased my clearnences and I got
Exhaust (close to front of bike, right?)
C1= .13mm
C2= .15mm
C3= .20mm
C4= .05mm
Intake (close to carbs, right?)
C1= .08mm
C2= .10mm
C3= .08mm
C4= .10mm

Now acording to the book these are way out of wack. Basically all of them are out of spec. More than likey they have never been adjusted the bike only has like 13,000 miles on it. now what im not sure of is how to figure out is what size shims I need to replace them. I asume I have to take out the old ones and look at the number and basically add my measurements onto the shim number and then round to the nearest .05mm? am I right. also do these numbers seem way to out there to be right should I measure again.? I pretty sure I did it right, but it is my first time doing this. any insight into this matter would help a bunch. One more question is should I order the tool or should I just ust the zip tie trick. is there any other better ways to pull shims out? thanks a lot

 

I bought the tool from Chacal and it didn't work on my 700. Other folks have had the same problem and simply enlarged the screw holes to make it work, and I will do that next time. I used the wire method and it worked very well, fast and easy. Just make sure the insulation is on, and I filed the tip of the wire just in case.

I don't know what your measurements should be, but you have it right. Check the clearance, remove the shim and read the number and then determine the shim size you need to get within specs.

When I did mine, I could reuse some of my shims on other cylinders, and I suspect that will be the case for you.

 

Correct. Measure, record; pull and "read" shims, record; and then determine what you need.

I'll make it a little easier yet: Exhaust #3 is fine at 0.20mm.

ALL of the others, with the exception of exhaust #4, will need the next-size smaller shim from what's in there.

Exhaust #4 will need to go THREE sizes down.

I take it you've found these? http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html and part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html I did "Part Deux" not only to illustrate the "zip-tie/wire down the hole" method, but also to show how the tool actually works and why it proves difficult at times.

Personally, once I understood how to properly use the tool, I've never been frustrated by it since. The pros and cons are spelled out in the article.

One last thing-- get over the "fear." This isn't a one-time thing. Valve clearance checks have to be done every 5000 miles. If you keep good records, you'll be able to "predict" which valves will need to be re-shimmed next, and you'll know what size shims you'll need (because you recorded what's in there.) This will turn it into a one-shot process; and once they've been adjusted a couple of times they'll settle down and you'll find yourself doing more checking than re-shimming as the miles pile on.

Good thing you decided to have a look, that #4 exhaust valve is approaching danger-ville. You have a classic example of a bike whose valves were never touched; another couple thou and you'd have had a toasted valve.

 

Thanks a lot tabaka and Fitz!! that really helps my confidence level. Now I will pullem readem and replacem

 

Also do a compression test. That low clearance on #4 exhaust should be an automatic signal to make sure that "danger-ville" (burnt valve) has not already happened.

Ghost

 

So I got all the valves in spec. Had a heck of a time with finding the shims. I went to a mechanic and he gave me the wrong shims the first time. I thought they looked a little weird, but I decided to trust him seeing as he is a bike mechanic. They were too big... so I went back got the right ones and got humpty back together again. Got my float heights adjusted as well while everything was apart. The engine still kinda rattles a little while idleing down but not nearly as bad as it did with tight valves. Is this just because its an old bike? Also Ghost would a regular car compression tester work that I can borrow from Orillley Auto Parts?? Now that the bike is running good I am thinking of starting my chop. Ive done all brakes(not lines yet) Valve shims, clean carbs. Any other recommondations of things I should look at before I begin customizing??

 

ALso thanks a lot Fitz on ur tutorial on shimming valves with the tool. I went and ordered it and it was a piece of cake getting them in and out.
Thanks

 

Good deal. Yes with the assistance of Fitz's guide anyone should be able to check valve shim clearances. Its almost, if not easier, than changing your car engine oil. You fellas do change your own car engine oil, right? <LOL>

 

Hey Ghost,

I've got some severely tight valves, including one that ready zero. Also, I took the valve cover off and smelled a terrible burt smell. What are the indications I need to replace a valve?

 

None yet.

First off, you're dredging up a two-plus year old thread. Start a new one of your very own.

Get the valves in spec, then do a compression test and see what you get. One cannot decide whether one has a burnt valve or not by smell. If you get decent compression numbers, you might have dodged a bullet.

What bike are you working on? OP had a 550.

 

Yeah, I'll get to the hard wear store tomorrow and put together a compression gauge. Then I'll know for sure. I'll post what I find.

I'm working on a Maxim 550 now, in addition to my seca 550.

Thanks Fitz

 

Finding shims is super EASY..... Ask me, Len Chacal at xj4ever, or the couple other guys who may still have a shim pool.