Valve clearance frustrations

I have an old '82 XJ550 Seca and I was pretty sure the valve clearances had never been checked so I decided to check them out. I followed this video step for step, I think someone on this forum actually made the video. Anyway I check all the clearences and I'll post them at the end but what was the problem was getting the shims out. I could not for the life of me get any of them out. This is the sequences of events that happened most times:
1. twist the bolt in the engine side cover counter clockwise until the lobe was pushing the shim straight down
2. Insert dongle in spark plug hole to prop open the valve.
2a. I used so many different things as a dongle. Folded and taped zip ties, hemostats wrapped in electrical tape (worked best), and a right angle pick covered in tape.
3. twist the bolt so the lobe was now facing straight away from the shim
4. Use a combination of picks, needle nose pliers, and hemostats to try to take the shim out.

I could usually move the shim up a couple millimeters but I could never get one out. I tried to vary the thickness of tape on things because it seemed like the thicker the dongle the more room I had between the shim and lobe. The hemostats were great because the angle of them made it very easy to slip in and prop the valve. On each shim I saw there was a little recessed rectangle on the rim and that's manly what I was working with when trying to pry them out but it just wasn't happening. After an hour or two I decided that I was gonna need some help from you guys. So was I doing something wrong? Is there another tool that would be better for taking shims out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

And here are my clearances:

Intake (i think they're the intake. These are the ones in front if your sitting on the bike)
1: .005
2:.006
3:.005
4:.003

Exhaust (Back row if sitting on the bike)
1:.003-.004
2:.003
3:.003-.004
4:.003

 

Some action shots if these are helpful
http://imgur.com/gallery/CjHSiRP
http://imgur.com/gallery/pMQLW0Q

 

please take the hemos out of the plug hole and never put them back! use the fat end of the zip tie or a few insulated #14 wires twisted up real tight.
to get the shim out try a magnet, then a stronger magnet then a puff of 60 psi air. don't leave the shim on the magnet any longer than you need to, they can get magnetized.
try not to nick the bucket or the shim will get stuck on the nick and give you a real hard time

 

try sliding a feeler gauge under the shim when you have the edge out mine were a bitch to remove.
i used a small blade screw driver to lift the shim.
my biggest problem was the shim was too thick because i did not have the bucket low enough to get it out
use the thickest widest wire tie and fold it over to give maximum clearance.
or a piece of 12 ga. electrical solid wire with the insulation on it

the shim removal tool is good as a paper weight

I had my exhaust off so I found it easier to go into the valve from the exhaust port
I see you have your carbs off you may get a better angle going in from there too I have not tried this for the intake

also use metric gauges KD-2274 is the part number you can go to any parts store and they can order on for you

 

Intake is the back row as sitting on the bike where the carbs are
Exhaust is the front of the motor as sitting on bike where the exhaust is


check your inbox upper right, I started a conversation with you

also see this link

AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics

 

To prevent the shim bucket from moving upwards when pulling up on the shim I put pressure on the edge of the shim bucket with a flat nose screwdriver. Then simultaneously pry up on the shim using a very fine tipped flat head screw driver which should pop the suction on the shim and allow you to grab it with a pair of tweezers.

 

Unless an XJ video is linked from this site you should pretty well ignore it. There are so many bad videos out there.

Airhead Valve Adjustment: With Pics

 

The wire worked better for me.the zip ties I have are cheap and flattened out pretty quickly.

 

I'm another vote for a 12ga insulated solid wire.
In my personal opinion, it's much faster and easier than the tool.

 

the tool does a great job as paper weight, or a place to hang your 12 ga wire when you mount it to the wall.

 

That's a good idea! At least I know what to do with it now.

 

I adjusted my 1982 XJ650 valve clearances soon after I purchased the bike. The very last shim was a major pain to remove.

I used the shim tool. It is not self-aligning. It comes with no instructions. You have to play with it to find out where it wants to be placed to hold down the bucket while you rotate the engine. It takes a few attempts the first time to get it to work.

I personally do not want to risk breaking off a piece of something that gets shoved into the plug hole. Its a personal aversion to that particular risk. I do not begrudge anyone who want to do it that way.

Enjoy