Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Cutlass84, Jun 4, 2007.
she is going to read this and put a coon skin hat in the box
I would think it'd be easy to look surprised to discover your new helemt has scratches!
Phew! Just finished wet setting the carbs. Taking a 'fresh air' break before the final check.
I got lucky and the dry set came pretty close. Only mishap: Watching fuel come pouring out the mouth for a second... then seeing the float needle sitting on the table! Wha??! Hah! Not sure how I managed that!
Hey Turpentyne, I think that it was you that stated in another thread that you found a heater by-pass hose at O'Reillys to use in place of the crankcase breather, you might want to keep an eye on it, it's made from EPDM material which is strongly attacked by oils and fuels.........it may turn to mush rather quickly!
ah... damn... That kinda crossed my mind, but I told myself, "maybe nothing but air will go through and I'm fine," after I couldn't find anyplace with large enough fuel line to work, which is what I assumed was the best bet.
ok... back to the drawing board. What's the best hose material I should look for, aside from fuel line?
get a spare
So sad put bike away for winter , temp hit 50 degrees would have been nice to go for a ride , had not started bike in 3 weeks , hit half choke fired right up counting down days till spring .
the winter put my bikes away early snow followed by more snow 50 degrees your so lucky
58 here Sunday... leading a 120 mile ride with 3 others...
give the throttle a twist for me I am going to have coffee with my bikes tomorrow morning and cover them with their blankets and read them a bed time story
Buna or Nitrile, i.e. fuel hose and probably vac hose, too. If you can find a PCV breather hose with the correct configuration that would be the best.
Took off my Exhaust system for a proper clean today not bad for 32 years of service ...........
Looks good for all those years.
Picked up a barn find 82 Seca 750 last month and decided to do a little lower frame cosmetics and am having a difficult time getting the rear brake light switch adjusted. It only moves 1/16” to activate and doesn’t want to retract enough to shut off the light. Anyone have any ideas?
the switch body has A NUT that hold it to bracket that is how you adjust the switch by moving it up or down with the nut
also spray cleaner and dry silocone spray to lube
edit about nut
I may need a new switch. The spring that moves it may have to be bent a little more. Movement of 1/16 inch to activate and release seems a little tight.
ebay page of switches or ask chacal. lots of people parting out 750 on this site too toomanybikes or joe elliff come to mind
Today I watch image of a honda cb super4 get smaller and smaller in my rear view mirror try harder next time kids...
What did I do with my Yamaha today?
I just finished reading every post of every page in this 287 page thread! A little sad that it’s finished, but proud of the accomplishment. Today a 17 year-old student advised me not to drill a lower hole on carb boot number 4 but to instead get a carbide bit and re-drill my broken tap that I left in. He was not impressed by my temporary solution, which I thought was brilliant at the time, to clamp the top corner on with a custom bracket. Look at the bottom left of the pic and tell me if you think it will work or if I’m going to get a massive vacuum leak lol.
I think I’ll follow my student’s advice and get the best Bosch drill bit I can find and go to town on it tonight. Tonight’s other chore includes matching my eBay universal LH handlebar controls with my wiring harness. (The controls have no wiring diagram.). Then attaching my Acewell gauge. The wiring is harder for me than any other part on this build! P.S. where can I buy Kroil in Canada? I think PB blaster is the best I have seen for stubborn bolts.
I'm just glad you didn't say you were using WD-40
I found this quote;
"Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds
The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."