What order would you tackle/purchase for these projects?

So I'm fortunate to have come into some "fun/motorcycle" money.

I'm trying to figure out what non-cosmetic project(s) to start purchasing parts for and in what order (funds won't cover them all). Most of the projects are obvious and common.

Note/Reminder: I purchased my 1st running bike that I rode all summer/fall w/o any work other than topping off oil and adjusting the idle and installing new fuse panel. That being said I know there are things I should do come spring to keep myself safe and the bike running.

A - Carbs (Have a working but untouched-b-me set on the bike and two unknown extra sets) - Plan on redoing at least one initially - Clean, clunk test, SS screws, sync, etc. --- This project can obviously add up depending on how much needs to be purchased.

B - Front MC - Have eBay OEM MC that I want to rebuild to replace my aftermarket MC that doesn't have the brake switch --- I have not disassembled the MC so I'm not sure how much I will need to buy. I do already have a new brake switch and old one that came with the MC.

C - Front SS Lines - Goes with MC redo and line bleeding --- Not exactly cheap but a fixed price once you add up everything you want to replace

D - Front Caliper rebuild (if needed) and/or pads --- Not done any reading/research yet - Just considering it as a full front brake rebuild

E - Valve Cover - Seeps slowly - Assume I should get gasket and new rubber booted bolts --- A bit pricey if I want all new bolts as well as the gasket/boots

F - Check and adjust valve shims - Kinda goes hand in hand with valve gasket and carb work... --- Price depends on how many shims I need

G - Spin-On Oil adaptor - To go along with a spring oil change --- A bit pricey and optional

Unfortunately I can't do they projects easily w/o a garage and only an overstuffed shed. However, my shed does have a work bench I can use once the weather is warm ENOUGH to work.

I'm guessing most will recommend I do the carbs, valve cover and valve shims first and at the same time. (When all done properly the bike should ride like a beast! 8) )

Then redo the entire front brake system.

Does that sound about right?

Did I forget any major projects?

Am I over planning on any? (I'd rather have as many parts in hand before I tear apart the RUNNING bike).

 

If you have a drum brake on the rear, dive in there first.

 

The lamination seemed ok when I checked it shortly after buying...

 

What kind of gas mileage were you getting this summer

 

Around 40 mpg maybe a little higher (55-65 MPH most of the time for 35 of 40 mile one way trips)

 

I would do the brakes first. Safety is always first.

 

The joy in owning a motorcycle is having a bike that that you know is not just a "Runner", ... but one you have tuned to what we call "Dialed-In." I like to call it tuned-up "On the hairy edge"!

So before you get distracted by anything else; be sure you have an Engine that you're going to be able to depend on and will let you tune it up without some complicating factors that will hinder it being able to handle getting fine tuned.

If the Compression is within specs and the Valve Clearances are also all within the margin for Performance Tuning; put a new Cam Cover Gasket on and devote the time it will take to CLEAN the CARBS, ... perfectly Cleaned and "Clean-Tuned."

Clean: Every single part free from foreign matter and polished if the part is brass or bronze.

Clean-Tuned: Passages clear. Parts fine-tuning require to be adjusted or able to move with precision, ... able. Or, replaced with Parts that do.

 

I'll have to post a picture of this OLD Fashion compression/vacuum tester kit I got at a garage sale so others can tell me if it will work good enough...

(Instead of screw in tips, there are 3 different sized rubber tips I could use to test compression).

I kinda like the suggestion to check the compression first before I get carried away with carbs. I should have done it sooner but i didn't...

I also agree brakes maybe should be a priority...

 

You might have some trouble trying to get a "Push-in & Hold" type Compression Tester to do the readings on the deep Plug-wells on the XJ-Bike.

Go to AutoZone and get their loaner.

 

Ya gotta do the tuning tasks in order to be effective.

1.) Compression test
2.) Valve lash adjust (shims)
3.) Carb clean
4.) Carb tune

If 1, OR 2, OR 3 are not right the 4 will NEVER be effective.

Loren

 

SAFETY FIRST; then zoom-zoom.

I didn't see:

T- Tires. How old are your tires? Do you know how to read the date codes? Do they HAVE date codes?

THEN, B, C, D. The only real way to be 100% confident of your brakes is to replace everything rubber, including the caliper and M/C seals.

Then, once we know the sucker will stop reliably, worry about making it GO reliably.

THEN, IN ORDER: F, E, check compression, and A.

I'd forget item G but that's just me; if you want my reasons start a new thread about it and stand back...

Push-in/on compression testers aren't worth diddly. You can get a very nice kit, with different sized adapers, etc., at AutoZone or Sears for like $20 or often even less. Out-and-out accuracy isn't super important, you're mainly making a comparison test.

Any time you get readings that cause concern, you need to get a second reading using a different gauge anyway (always get a "second opinion") for that you borrow one (unless you're really hard core and have more than one.)

One more suggestion; I use one of these http://www.mrheater.com/product.aspx?catid=41&id=116 to heat my little one-car garage and it works marvelously. If your shed's big enough for a workbench and a stool, you might think about it.

 

Ok good points on the push tester. Maybe I'll just hold on to it for vacuum testing (if I ever need it). I did practically get it for free at the yard sale...

The tires were good age and practically brand new when I got the bike. (Think PO did the spruce-up-the-bike-and-new+new tires and battery-before selling it).

I've read plenty of threads about replacing the old brake hoses. That is why it is on my list. My current MC doesn't hook up to the brake light, that is why I grabbed one off eBay. I'm sure it needs rebuilding. Black SS lines is my plan.

I have two spare carb racks to clean/experiment with/mess up - So getting one GOOD clean one should be do able

Checking and changing shims is also on the list because I've read alot, the valve cover and carbs just follow - Assuming the compression is good and I don't need to start looking for an engine.

So perhaps when it is a little above freezing again I'll do a compression test and go from there.

Thanks guys.
As usual more feed back is welcome and I'll start project threads as needed.

 

At least check the valves first; any that are way out can throw off your compression readings.

You don't want to "discover" a non-issue with a cylinder because of a tight valve or two.

 

I hear what you are saying, but I think I'll check compression BEFORE I tear apart my working engine (for the first time). Then I will measure valve clearances.

 

Pulling the valve cover to check clearances isn't a "teardown" it's a normal maintenance procedure.

I just don't want you to panic if you come up with a "soggy pot" and the problem is only a tight valve.

 

Fitz: I see what you are saying.

Slightly on topic: what are some tools I should grab at harbor freight if I make it this week? (For the above projects or in general).

Mighty vac bleeder and compression tester come to mind...

 

What comes first, ... the Chicken or the Egg?
Check valves or Compression?

I do the Compression, first.
That way, ... if there's a result that indicates the Motor's got something OTHER than a tight Valve to deal with, ... you haven't lost time doing the Valves.

If you get results that indicate your dealing with a HEALTHY Engine; you can continue on with making adjustments.
If the Compression Test reveals that there is an abnormality or two; further Compression Testing will help to reveal what it is at fault.

The Compression Test isn't a Tuning-up Test.
The Compression Test is Diagnostic Testing.
After you perform a Compression test and evaluate the results; you have a good idea about what to do next.

You either have a Engine that's ready to be tuned; or some other decisions to be made, first.

http://www.auto-facts.org/engine-diagnosis.html

 

Torque Sensing Wrench
6-Point Metric Sockets
Compression Tester
Hand-held Impact 1/2" Drive

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G4

 

based solely on the list provided in your original post I would:

inspect valves

Clean/clunk test carbs while valve shims are in the mail

get valves into spec

install and adjust carbs

clean/rebuild brake master cylinder and flush the old lines

Ride it for several thousand miles to see if it warrants further investment.

 

Sounds like a plan.

Except if the brake lines are original they need to be replaced as well.

Plus:

If you replace the valve cover gasket (YICS motor) be sure to replace the composite metal/rubber "donuts" on the cover bolts; they're what actually does the work of pressing the cover against the head.

 

Well so far I picked up a Compression Tester and MightyVac Kit.

Time and weather permitting I might be able to check the compression this weekend.