What plug leads do i use?

I apologise in advance about possibly repeating a question here but in my searches i can't fin a clear answer...

I want to buy new plug leads and am looking at ngk leads, my coils are fine so no need to replace. On the NGK website the resistance of their wire is 8k/ohm. What i've found on this forum so far says this is to high. I'm assuming they aren't including the plug but the wire only. Any help on this would be great. I'm in Australia and feel like the only xj owner here...

 

2 of LB05FP and 2 of VB05FP or YB05FP.
I actually prefer the YB05FP but
they seem hard to find and the VB05FP will work
ok.

L - 90° elbow
V- 120° elbow (long)
Y-120° elbow (short)
05 - 5 ohms resistance
F - terminal stud
P - weatherproof.

 

Welcome XJgoldcoast! Good news is that you are not alone! We have several active members from "down under" and over in NZ. Have a look at our member list, you're bound to find someone close.

 

Hey thanks blue for the info it can't get clearer than that, I really apreciate it. I'll let you know how I get along.

oh and Rob I'll check out the member list too, kinda new to forums but so glad I found this one!! thanks for the welcome.

 

No problem, and no need to thank me, that was a direct quote from Yoda himself. aka Dwayne Verhey!

 

I understand that there are many opinions on this subject, but this seems like a good time to examine a question I have been curious about as well.

I recently installed a pair of DC1-1 Dyna coils into a custom cover where the airbox used to be located (pics should be in my gallery, comments welcome). On the recommendations from Dynatek I also got plug wires from them. They are, from what I can tell, simply an automotive style silicone core 7mm wire with standard rubber boots on one end and extra boots to crimp onto the other once the proper length is found.

My question is, why can't I just take some 7mm or even 8 mm plug wires out of my automotive inventory that are already the proper length and put them on the bike. After reading much of the info on this forum regarding the subject I am still unsure as to how much the resistance of the wire will actually affect performance not to mention that a standard black wire would be more asthetically pleasing in my case.

I am not in any way disregarding using the proper item when available, but would love to be able to get my head around whether it is necessity or not.

Thanks again for all whose input makes this site one of the best on the internet!

 

I'm glad you ask that question xj750, from all the research I've done reading previous posts I began to wonder whether the resistance in the wires was becoming too much of a topic?... is it important? what is the difference between the 8k/ohm resistance that I read about on the NGK (automobile) site and the 5k/ohm required on the bike?

 

I made a mistake. If the wire is resistant then the caps don' t have to be. Most resistant wire is graphite core and I have always heard the 7mm copper core wire is what we want. Combining the resistance of the wire and the caps would be detrimental, producing a weak spark. Especially with stock coils.

 

ok yeh that makes sense. I'm going to find those NGK part numbers you posted and check em out, it sounds like they're the ideal ones for my bike. cheers.

 

Actually I believe we need radio noise suppression not resistance.
The resistance gives suppression but so does a spiral core plug wire.
5K ohms is a TON of resistance. The O.E.M. auto stuff is carbon suppression and has 3000 ohms per foot. It is usually junk in 20,000 miles.
My favorite wire for autos isTaylor Thundervolt 8.2 it has no radio noise and only 50 ohms resistance.
I think thet would be the ticket with Dyna or Accel coils.

Oh Gurus of the XJ world!!!!
Am I wrong on this? Is there something about the ignition system I'm not getting? I just can't imagine that adding resistance could be a good thing.

 

Do we really need radio noise suppressed wires?

 

You ever have a spark plug you were testing fire a spark only when not well grounded? In other words, when the base is grounded no spark, but move it away 1/4 " and the plug fires and the spark jumps from the base of the plug to the block. The plug is shorted (fouled).

When the TCI cuts off the juice to the coil primary the magnetic field begins to collapse. That collapsing field builds huge voltages on the secondary winding. When that potential gets high enough the air in the spark plug gap (which is an insulator normally) is ionized (makes it a conductor) and the spark jumps the gap.

Any kind of a "leak" bleeds off the potential on the secondary and keeps the voltage from spiking to a point the air in the plug gap ionizes. I believe the resistance in the wire and caps help build that voltage - giving a more reliable spark.

 

What Micarl said!, plus ........no we don't need radio suppression since we don't have radios on our bikes. Resistance can be added three ways. Resistor plugs, wires or caps. Take your pick, but of only one. Those that do have radios on their bikes will need suppression which can be added a fourth way via a suppression coil in the fuse line of the radio.

 

I just realised that the part numbers bluemaxim gave above are for the caps only. Ths is a big step to me completing this task of finding new leads but what wires do I use? are there zero resistance wires out there? I am new to this plug lead thing for bikes and wonder whether I'm making a big deal over nothing... ?

 

I would just go to an auto parts store and tell them you need some copper core wire for your motorcycle. NGK makes some racing wires that would be great. IF you are using the stock coils which is what I gathered from your first post, then they also make a watertight splicer so you can tie right into the remainder wire coming from the coils. Note that stock coils have the wires imbedded into the coil body. They don't just pull or twist off. So you either have to cut into the coil body and remove the wire or just cut the wire short leaving enough to splice into. Here is a link to explain further about cutting the wires out.
http://tinyurl.com/2p323o

 

great link thanks mate, i'll be using the splicer for sure as I have the stock coils. cheers again.

 

accel 7mm copper wires spliced to original coils works just fine
they even come in colors